Strut brace search complete
09-05-2007, 07:15 PM
#16
I've got an 'Ambler' one. Yes, took a bit of 'personalising' but really looks the part (imo the only brace that really looks right) and does the job - mightily impressive. Tightened up the steering and stopped the windscreen from creaking - bargain. One of my better purchases (even though the original fit wasn't perfect).
Trev
Trev
09-05-2007, 07:40 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
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Location: Bremerton, WA
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So, how does one aquire one of those from 'Ambler'? I don't mind a little 'work' to get it installed if it really works well (and the price is reasonable considering work required).
Inquiring minds and all that BS.
Inquiring minds and all that BS.
09-05-2007, 09:38 PM
#18
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Foto,
Ambler, PA is the home of Fabspeed. Fabspeed sells a replica of the simple GT2 bar. According to some, the holes were not correctly spaced, so Fabspeed had two of the holes 'ovaled' to allow the bar to fit properly. There are terms for stuff like this.
Andreas
Ambler, PA is the home of Fabspeed. Fabspeed sells a replica of the simple GT2 bar. According to some, the holes were not correctly spaced, so Fabspeed had two of the holes 'ovaled' to allow the bar to fit properly. There are terms for stuff like this.
Andreas
09-05-2007, 11:39 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
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09-06-2007, 10:38 AM
#21
Seared
Rennlist Member
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Thread Starter
At the end of the day, all strut braces will do the same thing - prevent the shock towers from spreading while under cornering loads. It's been discussed before - a strong cable affixed between the towers would accomplish the same goal.
What have thee under the stainless cover?
Andreas
09-07-2007, 12:29 AM
#22
While the 'look' of the original RUF brace is nice, I was more interested in the super-stout design. Rock solid with no pivot points. The Rennline brace looks well made, but still allows for flex from the Heim joints.
What have thee under the stainless cover?
03-15-2010, 08:46 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Foto,
Yes, I removed the offending studs. I attempted to tap these out initially, but found that using the proper-sized (#2) bolt remover worked perfectly. The remover grabbed the threads with enough tenacity to allow the bolt to spin free of the small splines. Then it was a matter of just tapping the studs out.
Yes, I removed the offending studs. I attempted to tap these out initially, but found that using the proper-sized (#2) bolt remover worked perfectly. The remover grabbed the threads with enough tenacity to allow the bolt to spin free of the small splines. Then it was a matter of just tapping the studs out.
Did you use this type of bolt remover on the top side?
Thanks in advance.
03-15-2010, 10:16 PM
#25
Race Director
Just this w/e I was replacing the dist caps for the 30k service on my car, one of the philips screws on the dist. cap would not break free no matter what I used on it. I used the second smallest of the set of these removers and it worked like a charm. Great tool to have in the chest.
03-16-2010, 01:14 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
it looks like they are now selling a design that utilizes the stock studs?
http://www.perfectpowerinc.com/sales.html
Craig
http://www.perfectpowerinc.com/sales.html
Craig
03-16-2010, 11:04 PM
#27
Drifting
I have the RUF brace from my 964. I contacted somebody about purchasing a set of monoball strut mounts and they told me htat they could put longer studs in for me. But now I can't remember who it was. Anyway, I went to the link listed and it looks like they just drilled the mounts a little deeper. I am going to have to look at my bar to see if there is enough metal in there to allow that. Just wish I was as handy as some of you out there.
09-10-2010, 03:31 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Hi all --
I finally got around to unpacking my Perfect Power strut brace and I have to second (third, fourth) what everyone else has said about this being an absolutely beautiful and stoutly made piece. The anodizing and machining are first rate!
I realized in mid-install that I have no idea how to install this thing and mine didn't come with instructions.
Three questions, really:
(1) What's the proper torque setting for the nuts that screw down the brace?
(2) Once it's screwed down, how should you go about adjusting the tension on the brace? Or should you be doing this during the test fitting?
(3) (and the stupidest question) -- washer goes underneath the hex nut, inside the barrel of the strut brace?
See, I told ya I didn't have the first clue in installing this thing. ;-)
I finally got around to unpacking my Perfect Power strut brace and I have to second (third, fourth) what everyone else has said about this being an absolutely beautiful and stoutly made piece. The anodizing and machining are first rate!
I realized in mid-install that I have no idea how to install this thing and mine didn't come with instructions.
Three questions, really:
(1) What's the proper torque setting for the nuts that screw down the brace?
(2) Once it's screwed down, how should you go about adjusting the tension on the brace? Or should you be doing this during the test fitting?
(3) (and the stupidest question) -- washer goes underneath the hex nut, inside the barrel of the strut brace?
See, I told ya I didn't have the first clue in installing this thing. ;-)
09-10-2010, 04:02 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Doh, I'm going to answer my own first question, at least. :-)
From another thread:
"Robin sun's P-Car Site lists the Strut tower bolts (13mm) torque at 33Nm or 24.3 ft lb. "
With the warnings from other RL'ers to:
"And be sure not to overtighten them. Many past posts of those studs being fragile and end up breaking if given too much force."
and
"As Kelly said, the studs are easily snapped so be very cautious & use a proper range torque wrench. Many here use 18-20 ft lb (there's at least 1 post of a snapped stud at 18 ft lb). I carefully torqued mine to 24 ft lb in 3 stages."
and
"What Dan said. I stayed shy of 20 ft-lb due to the horror stories and also because they weren't on very tight when I started."
Three questions, really:
(1) What's the proper torque setting for the nuts that screw down the brace?
(2) Once it's screwed down, how should you go about adjusting the tension on the brace? Or should you be doing this during the test fitting?
(3) (and the stupidest question) -- washer goes underneath the hex nut, inside the barrel of the strut brace?
See, I told ya I didn't have the first clue in installing this thing. ;-)
(1) What's the proper torque setting for the nuts that screw down the brace?
(2) Once it's screwed down, how should you go about adjusting the tension on the brace? Or should you be doing this during the test fitting?
(3) (and the stupidest question) -- washer goes underneath the hex nut, inside the barrel of the strut brace?
See, I told ya I didn't have the first clue in installing this thing. ;-)
"Robin sun's P-Car Site lists the Strut tower bolts (13mm) torque at 33Nm or 24.3 ft lb. "
With the warnings from other RL'ers to:
"And be sure not to overtighten them. Many past posts of those studs being fragile and end up breaking if given too much force."
and
"As Kelly said, the studs are easily snapped so be very cautious & use a proper range torque wrench. Many here use 18-20 ft lb (there's at least 1 post of a snapped stud at 18 ft lb). I carefully torqued mine to 24 ft lb in 3 stages."
and
"What Dan said. I stayed shy of 20 ft-lb due to the horror stories and also because they weren't on very tight when I started."
09-10-2010, 05:01 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
(2) There was some disagreement about this on another thread recently but IIRC the final verdict tended toward expand the bar until it's snug then tighten it down.
(3) Yes. Brace over stud, then washer, then hex nut.
(3) Yes. Brace over stud, then washer, then hex nut.