How to roll the fender without damaging the paint?
#1
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I plan to roll up my fender since my 993tt is lowered and the wheels is wider than factory. Any one experience this job b4? Is there special equipment to use? or you guys adjust the camber or toe-in/out instead? Loads of thanks in advance
#7
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Search the 928 forum archives - many posts on technique: often, one can get away with just rolling the lip under - otherwise, the fender is actually rolled out.
The 'quite warm to the touch' comment is worthy of note to keep the paint from cracking.
The 'quite warm to the touch' comment is worthy of note to keep the paint from cracking.
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#8
King of Cool
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I just rolled my fenders few weeks ago with good results. It looks great, no paint damage etc.
I used PVC pipe (I think it's 1.5" diam.), got it from local hardware store's plumbing department.
I did it after a little drive, parked the car outside in thr sun and waited when the engine & exhaust had warmed the fenders, then rolled away (slowly!) gradually more and more.
You just roll the pipe (or bat) between the tyre & fender and gradylly more and more.
I used PVC pipe (I think it's 1.5" diam.), got it from local hardware store's plumbing department.
I did it after a little drive, parked the car outside in thr sun and waited when the engine & exhaust had warmed the fenders, then rolled away (slowly!) gradually more and more.
You just roll the pipe (or bat) between the tyre & fender and gradylly more and more.
#10
King of Cool
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Bill,
I don't have any pics but I can take some tonight if you're interested of the result photos.
I actually had to do even more when I was at Sebring and my track tyres (285/30 with 18x10", ET 52 wheels, -3 camber) were slightly rubbing on left side, at about 1-2 o'clock.
I rolled the lip as much as you can and then actually pulled the fender a little bit when it was really hot (after the track session). Came out great and the tyre (barely) misses the fender now.
I don't have any pics but I can take some tonight if you're interested of the result photos.
I actually had to do even more when I was at Sebring and my track tyres (285/30 with 18x10", ET 52 wheels, -3 camber) were slightly rubbing on left side, at about 1-2 o'clock.
I rolled the lip as much as you can and then actually pulled the fender a little bit when it was really hot (after the track session). Came out great and the tyre (barely) misses the fender now.
#11
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I have done this many times through the years. I have a resto / custom shop and have worked with sheet metal for 15 years. I take the tire/wheel off and run 4 or 5 layers of masking tape on the inside and outside of the fender (2" wide). It is important that you use a heavy dolly on the outside of the fender while you lightly hammer the inside of the lip flat with a hard rubber hammer. No paint damage and no distortion. But hey if a rolling pin works for you, have at it. You will simply be stretching the edge of the inner lip and if you go slowly it will go where you want it. Putting the car in the sun or a heat gun to the area will do little to help.
#12
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Originally Posted by Flying Finn
Bill,
I don't have any pics but I can take some tonight if you're interested of the result photos.
I actually had to do even more when I was at Sebring and my track tyres (285/30 with 18x10", ET 52 wheels, -3 camber) were slightly rubbing on left side, at about 1-2 o'clock.
I rolled the lip as much as you can and then actually pulled the fender a little bit when it was really hot (after the track session). Came out great and the tyre (barely) misses the fender now.
I don't have any pics but I can take some tonight if you're interested of the result photos.
I actually had to do even more when I was at Sebring and my track tyres (285/30 with 18x10", ET 52 wheels, -3 camber) were slightly rubbing on left side, at about 1-2 o'clock.
I rolled the lip as much as you can and then actually pulled the fender a little bit when it was really hot (after the track session). Came out great and the tyre (barely) misses the fender now.
#13
Burning Brakes
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I've done it to mine - since I didn't care if I cracked paint and I couldn't find a bat, I got impatient (track day that weekend) and used a large socket on a long socket extension. Even with the metal-to-metal contact, I only lost paint on a previously repainted section on one of the four lips. I was not even being cautious, just cranking away....
Bill - it's a ton easier than it sounds. The trick is to start at 9 or 3 o'clock and then roll the bat/pin/PVC steadily increasing the pressure. I'd heat the lip as well, especially as cold as it is where you live. And candidly, even if the paint cracks a bit, it's under the edge of the lip anyway.
Bill - it's a ton easier than it sounds. The trick is to start at 9 or 3 o'clock and then roll the bat/pin/PVC steadily increasing the pressure. I'd heat the lip as well, especially as cold as it is where you live. And candidly, even if the paint cracks a bit, it's under the edge of the lip anyway.
#14
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Pictures would be great!!!!! What I am trying to figure out is there are two apex points where the fender rolls into the wheel well. I can't tell what will move. Just the inside lip rolling it back against the fender or both this and moving the fender out where it curves into the wheel just before the bottom apex of the fender....if that makes any sense. Also, I think I only need about 8 inches of the fender at the top moved slightly so I don't want to roll the whole thing.
But I don't want to touch it until I can see somke pics...if any can supply them!!
thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
But I don't want to touch it until I can see somke pics...if any can supply them!!
thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#15
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A baseball bat and steady, increasing pressure as you roll it through the arc, using a slightly fatter part of the bat each time through. Never any paint problems or bent fenders on many cars for me, although i have never needed to do the 993.