Cab problems
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From: Kirkland, Wa.
Cab problems
I have Questions about my convertible top. My top has always worked great. Until I recieved the recall notice from porsche for the latching motors. I took it in and had them replaced under the recall. The dealer checked the operation of the top while they had it and told me I need new cables. They said they had become shorter. I said my top works fine. Well the next day the top tweaked and got stuck in the down position. It's always worked before they touched it and they won't fix it. I decided to replace the cables myself.
But, in the meantime I am in the proccess of converting to manual operation for now. The question is now that I have disconected the arm from the motor how do I remove the arm? There is a piviting joint but it does not have a hex head or anyway to get a tool on it. Is this a cap that I can remove? Or do those of you whom have gone manual just let the arm dangle? Thanks for the help.
But, in the meantime I am in the proccess of converting to manual operation for now. The question is now that I have disconected the arm from the motor how do I remove the arm? There is a piviting joint but it does not have a hex head or anyway to get a tool on it. Is this a cap that I can remove? Or do those of you whom have gone manual just let the arm dangle? Thanks for the help.
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From: NE Florida
No, no, no, under the cap you should see a bolt head, apx. 18mm. You LOOSEN the bolts apx 3 - 4 turns (do NOT take them out). The bolt has to stay in to support the arm.
I have a photo in another thread of the transmission with the microswitches and the bolt is plainly visable, I'll look for it.
Here's the photo, it's with the panel removed but the bolt in the center is what you should see under the black round cap, and it will stay there after you loosen it.
I have a photo in another thread of the transmission with the microswitches and the bolt is plainly visable, I'll look for it.
Here's the photo, it's with the panel removed but the bolt in the center is what you should see under the black round cap, and it will stay there after you loosen it.
Last edited by Slow Guy; Dec 24, 2014 at 01:37 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kirkland, Wa.
I took that bolt out and the arm off. I thought that leaving it in place would wear the notches on the back side of the arm and the motor. So I leave that in place? It doesn't wear out the notches? I do want to replace the cables and go back to power sometime in the future. Thanks for your help.
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From: NE Florida
You don't have to put anything between the notched pieces but I did, I don't remember the size of the washer but it was very thin but the hole was big enough to fit over the bolt. I then tightened the bolt up to where it was just starting to get snug. That arm only travels about 120 deg., it doesn't go all the way around.
Thread Starter
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From: Kirkland, Wa.
I put the arms back on and everything works great. It is very easy to open and close the top manually. The only problem I have now is that the light on the dash will not go out when the top is down. I thought that would be the switches next to the arm on the passenger side but the light still doesn't go out when I close those. Thanks again for all your help.
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From: NE Florida
Originally Posted by Kendal
...The only problem I have now is that the light on the dash will not go out when the top is down. I thought that would be the switches next to the arm on the passenger side but the light still doesn't go out when I close those. Thanks again for all your help.
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From: Kirkland, Wa.
Thanks, I did know about the big warning light. I will keep looking into the light for the top. I will let you know if I ever figure it out. Thanks again for all your help. This is a great site.
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My light wasn't on after I converted mine; btw, I removed half the arms, and the transmissions and cables, too. Tell you what, it will be a real bear to realign everything yourself when you get the new cables, I just got used to putting it up and down by hand.
Try unplugging each of the microswitches and see if that clears the light; that may interfere with the top motors working, though.
Try unplugging each of the microswitches and see if that clears the light; that may interfere with the top motors working, though.
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From: la la land | comin' back soon nyc
fwiw: the cable issue is something that does occur... esp. aft 10 years. i'd do new cables @ a great p-car independent (years ago, i think it cost me around $300....
does sound like the stealer did awaken the problem for you... can't believe they didn't even offer to give you 1/2 off on a reapir or free labor!!!!
the cables don't shrink... the plastic that covers them gets brittle w/ age (sometimes crackin' into small pieces) & this impeads the movement causing the cables to roll up @ diff. intervals (i.e.: left takes up quicker than right side, etc.) creating a really scary mess & failure.
good lluck w/ the manual convert... i could not do something like that. i use it sometimes even @ stoplights, etc...
does sound like the stealer did awaken the problem for you... can't believe they didn't even offer to give you 1/2 off on a reapir or free labor!!!!
the cables don't shrink... the plastic that covers them gets brittle w/ age (sometimes crackin' into small pieces) & this impeads the movement causing the cables to roll up @ diff. intervals (i.e.: left takes up quicker than right side, etc.) creating a really scary mess & failure.
good lluck w/ the manual convert... i could not do something like that. i use it sometimes even @ stoplights, etc...
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 30
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From: Kirkland, Wa.
I always loved that it was a power top. So easy to use compared to my carrera targa( pain). But now that I have gone to manual it is actually really easy and quick. I might look a little funny doing at a stop light. But otherwise is easy to use. I will replace the cables myself later when I get the time. I like doing the work myself. I feel I get more of the Porsche experience.