techno99

That could be dangerous at Sebring. I've started a 4 and will work my way up to 1 gradually. Even at 4 I'm loosing traction braking over the bumps going into turn 1.

TheOtherEric

Thanks Mark. I forgot that I already thoroughly investigated the issue and posted that!

Bilstein graph here:
http://www2.bilstein.de/en/produkte/...gleich.php3#16

Carrera GT

Thanks for doing the research -- here and in the prior thread -- that's useful stuff.

The next step would be to have a concise guide to how an average to competent driver can adjust a double-acting damper. It would also be interesting to have a formula for spring weight and design selection for a 911 of a given weight/power/tire/driving application.

That's not asking too much, is it? : )

TheOtherEric

Are you asking for info on how to adjust a 2-way adjustable shock like Motons or JRZ? I'd like to find something like that too. Here's a couple things, but neither are that great:

Weitzenhof Damper Fundamentals

Brief Shock tuning guide

RamVA

There is a problem, but it is not a hard one to fix.

The clicker is a simple design. On the underside of the adjuster dial there are 9 small dimples, one for each position, and below the adjuster dial there is a threaded ring with a small ball bearing in it. As the dimples passes over the ball bearing they "click."

If it's not clicking then one of two things are true. Most likely the adjuster ring is not far down enough on the spindle to contact the threaded ring. If this is the case loosen the 1.5mm Allen set screw on the adjuster ****, slide it tighter, and re-tighten. It's also possible that the threaded ring is not aligned with the actual settings or with the adjuster ****. To fix this start by turning the dial to either full hard or full soft. Next, remove the adjuster **** and make sure that the ball bearing is aligned with one of the flat edges of the spindle. If it is not then adjust its position (there's a lock-nut under it). Finally replace the adjuster **** aligning the ball bearing with the appropriate dimple (either 1 or 9) and making sure they are snug before re-tightening the set screw.

tankertoad

Does anyone know the approximate PSS9 settings that would equate to the Bilstein HDs?

Martin S.

the article was referencing the actual installation. I know from personal experience, that using TRG sway bars with the PSS9s, with TRG rear drop links, if the sway bar collars that go on the rear shocks are set too high, under severe compression such as could occure on the track, or big bumps on the street, the sway bars will crash into the kinematic toe links. This is not good. They are cast aluminium...I had grooves in both links and one was actually bent. I had the sway bar collars lowered, changed to RS drop links, replaced the stock kinematic toe links with ERP links...all has been well since.

I just set the shocks to full stiff in the front and rear for the track. I have been know to go down (soft) a few clicks if the rear is hopping around. I have been told if you want more bite in the front, soften the PSS9s up a wee bit...this is a rumor as I have not tried this

techno99

Martin,

9=softest. Did you mean 1 or are you actually running soft on the track?

dbf73

Those of you running different front/rear settings, which end is stiffer (lower number)?

Mark in Baltimore

Generally, the rear is stiffer.

TheOtherEric

Lol, well, running full soft might explain your turtle-like lap times.

Martin S.

This damn inverse numbers....I run the car at fulkl stiff on the track and seldom make any changes. I did once to the rear to dampen some wheel hop on a bumpy track....maybe I should play with the settinggs next tile out...improve some of those Turtle Times!