I bought a Bend-Pak MD-6XP Lift, Wow.....
 

I picked up my scissor lift down in Southern Cal last weekend and drove it home to the Bay Area in the back of my pickup. I rented an engine hoist to lift it out of my truck bed and set it on the garage floor. I am very impressed so far, the quality is amazing for $1499. Bend-Pak (no affiliation) is in Santa Paula, California and apparently the lift is made right there. The welding and construction look top notch, it was awesome to see my 993 raised 4 feet in the air in my garage! Now I am ready to tackle Jeff's suspension DIY! :cheers:

cool how much does it weigh ? the rotary brand one has wheels so you can suppossedly wheel it around.

I have the same lift for about a year now. Havent had any problems with it. Sure makes changing the suspension easier! I think it weighs a bit over 900#. The lift motor has a trailer hitch like protrusion you hook on the front of the lift and it can be rolled around.
This is how it looks if you pick it up from the truck depot. I used a $25 U-Haul to get mine because I could just slide it on the ground.
Another thing is it makes a great variable height work bench with a piece of plywood on top :)

very nice. I am looking into one of this for my new garage. How stable is it when lifted?
I am assuming it is pneumatic...does it come with a compressor or are you using one you already had?

It is self contained, it comes with a hydraulic pump that is connected to a dolly type thing which you hook up to the front and pull it around. Now that said, it is very heavy, mine is over 1000 lbs and I am not able to move it very easily. I also had to make some ramps from 2x12 lumber in order to get clearance. I purchased mine in Indiana, which was close enough for me to drive there to see it prior to purchase. Here is the link where I got mine www.gregsmithequipment.com no affiliation, just happy with the product and the price.

If you want pic's let me know and I will email them. I can't seem to post pic's here for some odd reason.

Jay

Hey, you're in my backyard. I'm in Oakley.

I picked up one of these a while back. I love it. Well worth it. I had mine drop shipped and then painfully moved it back to my shop... not an easy trek, that thing is heavy!

Beware, if you bring the ride height down you will need to make some ramps/platforms. If you have any questions, let me know!
Some have posted pics here in another thread.

I've had the same lift for about 6 - 7 mos. now. Works very well. Although it's said to be mobile it doesn't move very easily on it's own "wheels" (rollers actually). Stability is NOT an issue. Since I didn't want the rollers gouging ruts in my garage I had a local aluminum shop cut some (apx) 12" x 84" x 1/4" sheets to go under the roller section to protect the concrete. I also have 2" x 10 / 2 x 8's stacked/screwed together to drive the cars on for clearance over the lift. I can take some photos of the setup after I take the car off.

I got mine through these guys, fast shipping and no issues.
http://www.asedeals.com/mid_rise_lift.html

Platforms/Ramps
 

Hi Mark, yes, you definitely need some sort of platform if your car is lowered. My 993 is the normal US ride height so it just clears the lift with no problems. However, I am in the process of lowering the car so I am using a couple 2x12 planks on each side of the car so it clears the lift. That gives me about 3" of height on each side. There have been several posts with pictures of this setup. Bottom line, it's a GREAT lift, I can't imagine going back to jacking and jack stands!! It uses an electric hydraulic pump that runs off normal 110V, the pump attaches to the dolly that is used to move the lift around. :thumbup:

Do you think you could drop the transmission with this lift? I'm shopping too.

discussed here ...https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...8&page=7&pp=15

I just got one of these on ebay. They said they sell 2-3 a day! I plan to pick mine up next week. You can see a video of one of these in action: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/movies/midrise.asx

You might want to think about using some aluminum plate under the rollers.

I am amazed that you can drive over it w/o ramps. I needed ramps w/ a 4" rise to get mine over the lift.

Please let me know when you are doing your suspension. If I'm free, I'll come by and lend a hand. I just live in Knightsen ( we met at Starbucks a couple of months ago with the pcar group). The lift looks great!

I used 3/8" plate steel to help spread the load, not sure I needed to but I have a friend who got the steel for free. It rolls pretty easy on smooth concrete, so not too sure you would need the aluminum although it wouldn't hurt.

Steel or aluminum are fine, concrete will be damaged before long. I use scraps of 3/8" aluminum hull plate at the rollers and pivot
the first pic is when I was starting to build the platform, the second is almost done, I needed to add another 1" layer to get the lowere 993 onto it.

I have been using mine on bare concrete for over a year. No ill effects. I also have 2x12 ramps. Once I decided exact location of the lift, I pust down tape to mark the position on the ramps. As you raise the car off the ramps, the suspension/tires will drag the ramps inward over time. I just push them back in to position every once in a while. For the money, you can't beat these lifts.

Very nice setup. This gives me a ton of idea....which might not be a good thing :evilgrin:

Thanks Bill, I have a couple thin steel tracks now for the rollers. I am in the process of setting up ramps and a platform so I can clear the lift after my new suspension is complete.

A question for you mid-rise lift owners:

Doing the trig it looks like the car moves forward about 8 inches at full lift when compared to at rest and that's the same distance the rollers travel on the floor?

Thanks in advance...

I have never noticed mine moving forward at all. I just had it up and back down yesterday. Maybe it does.

+1, no movement noticed on mine.

Ed Hughes has one and we were able to drop the motor and w/o the trans easy. I'm the trans could have come out also, we just didn't do it. This lift is prefect for 9 one one owers, for obvious reasons. Not as handy for us water pumpers though, unless we never drop the central tube.

And yes, they make a great table for entertaining guests on race weekends.

I just got one and it may move forward when nothing is on it. This is because I was messing with it...up/down...up/down...up/down. With a car on it it's not going to move.

Hmm, I think my question was a bit half baked; the car shouldn't move fore and aft seeing as one end of the lift is effectively fixed. And I can't even blame the mulled wine!

what exact Bend Pak model is this?

I'm just waiting to complete the inside of my shed addition before I order mine up. I put a 5 1/2" depression in the floor so I can just drive the car over it-no blocking needed.

Your model appears to have the adjustable arms on it-that is a must.

I was settled on the Atlas TD6MR @ $1295 + shipping from Greg Smith eqpt. I never saw a Bend Pak with adjustable arms at that $1400+ price point.

EDIT-I just read your post again...I guess I simply missed the model.

The Bend pak MD-6XP @ $1499! That is listed at $2145 at the sources I saw, and that doesn't include shipping I believe.

I guess I better get back on the research wagon.

wow..edit again, I guess I should look at the DATE of the post huh? No wonder it was $1499...nevermind

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...-wow-md6xp.jpg

What I'd like to see a pic of, is the engine and transmission from directly below the vehicle when the lift is up high enough to clear a removed engine/transmission assembly.

On these types of lifts, there is a horizontal cross-brace tying the longitudinal supports together at the rear. The way I see it, that cross-brace would interfere with the front of the transmission as the lift is raised while the engine/transmission is lift supported on a cart.

I went with a different model, the Bendpak LR-60P.

Its a drive over pad lift, only goes 32" high, but I like it much better. in this pic the lift is less than half way up.

http://www.evisionsphoto.com/gallery...2/DSC04625.JPG

This is probably the one I will be going with...no cross bars connecting the runways which give you full access to the bottom of the vehicle...

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/ph...KWIK-BAY-9.jpg

Hi Cosmic-993,

Nice meeting you and your wife last week-end, question on your lift is the clearance for draining the oil tank OK?
Did you get the lift ship to your house? I am sick of the ramps/stands deal, and would love one if I could convince the wife.

Renaud

Congratulations! It is nice to spend more time working on the car than jacking it up and crawling in and out from underneath

I would cut it into the floor myself. Concrete work is so easy even a caveman can do it.

Here is a pic I pulled off the web. I'm sure someone here knows him.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...issorslift.jpg

the rear cross bar on the 6xp can be cut out without comprimising the strength of the lift when using it for these relatively small cars.
However, if you were going to use on a heavier, longer wheelbase car/truck, I would weld tabs on and bolt it back in place.

When using the lift on a 911, the rear arms are so close to the main center frame of the lift the thinner rear cross piece is not in play.

Hey Magdaddy, it's been awhile! I see you answered all your own questions. Looks like BendPak resurrected this thread. Anyway, I can't say enough about the lift, I still love it. I have done major services (timing belts, etc) on a Hyundai Elantra, Mitsu Montero Sport, Toy Tundra, and of course, my 993. I had no idea how much the price went up. I did pay $1499, but I picked it up myself. I guess the cost of steel has gone way up. Anyway, here are a couple more pics...

For the Bendpak LR-60P do you need to create another ramp in the front to get the 911 on without bottoming out? Know it is about 1" lower than the MD-6XP.

Any access to oil tank with the LR-60P lift?

Based on the modifications people are doing, I'm guessing this is not a solution.....but...

I notice on the MX-6P that there is open space between the rails on the end with the pistons, whereas that's not the case on the other end. If one turns the lift around, is it open enough to drop the engine/tranny combo?

I am thinking really hard about buying this lift, and just down to the details before I put the order in.

Thanks !!

I debated between the MX-6P and the MaxJax two years ago and I'm glad I went with the MaxJax. Much more flexible and takes less floor space.

IIRC some members have dropped their 993 motors using the Atlas TDR Lift, here is my write up:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ssor-lift.html

If I were to do it again I would go this route:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=228116

Recessing the lift is definitely an endeavor but well worth it IMO...Good Luck.

Man, the home lift is where its at. .. Santa this last X-mas brought a 2 post model. Home car lifts are the bomb...
Garage project is in a state of flux ... although when the jack-shaft garage door operator is finally in place, with the lift posts set,, I'll create a pictorial of the completed scheme.

Manufactured/Designed by the family owned MA located www.naautoequipment.com company. Product Code: U-2-C-7000 is the model Santa delivered. .. There are 2 dozen or so pictures of the similar/same #3 lift here: http://www.naautoequipment.com/Unive...t-car-lift.htm

As a full lift height yet semi-portable design, once set-up outside on a dedicated area this will make easy work of the Spring Chassis Cleaning chore; Rocky mountain winter blizzards take a toll on daily driver undercarriages...
Drive-line undercarriage de-greasing with a high pressure power-wash will be much more effective - piece of cake!

I'm about to pull the trigger on a MD-6XP and had exactly the same question - searched but did not see anyone confirming. Seems such a simple fix (rather than cutting out a bar) that there must be an issue with turning 180deg.....

Sadly, no lateral space for MaxJax. And cannot do a clean recessed install because I need to have my car at an angle in the garage at times so to be able to fit my DD in the next bay over.

So, all that said, I get the impression it is not an issue to drop an engine with the Bendpak lift without modification, as I was asking originally. True?

TIA

Top = Usual orientation - with the red arrow pointing to the cross beam that some have cut out.
Bottom = Lift rotated 180deg orientation - no cross beam under trans that needs cutting out. But what other negative impact does this orientation have that stops people doing it instead of cutting.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...12d32ee08b.jpg

Cheers.

Just a guess, but would the hydraulic cylinders take up the floor space needed to place the jack or lift table in position under the lump?

Beautiful work LimeyBoy. That's exactly my question.

Now, not that anyone has specifically pointed to it thus far, but, on the rennsportkc page referenced above it does have the following in the comments section way down on the page:

QUESTION:
"Sorry if I missed this… The lift looks like it doesn’t have a bar on the front side. If you parked with the engine on that side, would the geometry of the lift prevent you from fitting a lift for the engine/tranny underneath because the hydraulic pistons would get in the way?

If there’s enough clearance (lowering the engine/tranny out of the car) on that side, I figured it might be easier to rig a setup to clear the hydraulic pistons instead of modifying the lift."

REPONSE:
"You are correct about the geometry issue. Unfortunately due to the design of the hydraulics and the legs at the front end of the lift, there is no clearance to drop an engine out that side. That would have been too easy :)"

You can definitely drop the motor and trans using this lift. I have done it numerous times in the 911's and also in a testarossa... no problems...

The only downside to this lift is that it requires a 2 inch ramp to fit under our cars...

Otherwise, best $1500 you can spend...

This lift is interesting (or scary), but the price is up there:

https://www.naautoequipment.com/Atla...h-psp-6000.htm

I don't picture this as a feasible lift, to do much (if any) work on the car. I know I wouldn't wanna be under that thing.

Atlas brand... $3200. Single Post - movable side arm design type.
 

The single post design'er.. - movable-/-portable style hydraulic lifts have been around Germany for decades gaining popularity here in N/A. The Atlas brand model PSP-6000 @ $3200 is on the low $ end for this type. There are German brands of this type costing closer to $5000 or better. ..

The national firm Greg Smith Equipment's Atlanta area showroom had several of this single post type on display. .. The type weighs approx., 1900lbs static. .. The at rest height is pretty tall, I'd think to tall for even taller than normal residential garage ceiling heights; Certainly wouldn't work on my 9'11"garage project, plus the cost $ is overkill for the budget . .. The Greg Smith Rep indicated the single post design is more of a commercial design. .. Have a look at its 1,900lb trolley weight,,, - It takes two men and a boy to move around the garage .... not to mention clearance.

Have a look on YouTube as there are plenty of How To video's which dispel any single post lift mis-representations. .. The sky is falling ... I don't want to be under that thing....

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...ngle-Post-Lift

Thanks!! This is helpful. Any tricks to making it work without the modifications?

Prices are up to $1995 delivered... At least that's the best I can find.

EDIT: For the Bendpak MD-6PX...

You don't need to modify it, at least not the one I have. You need ramps made of wood to clear the bottom of your car...

I was thinking of purchasing one of these lifts for my 911 i have found this one https://www.garageequipmentonline.co...ley-attachment has anybody had any dealings with this company and if so could you let me know how the after sales service is ???

Not sure about the 993, but I was able to drop the engine/trans on my 964 with the MD-6XP by rotating the lift 180 degrees. No crossbar cutting needed. I suspect the engine drop on the 993 would be similar. The HF lift table is a must IMHO.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8b42a10c05.jpg

Thanks for that update! I've got my eye on this lift and will probably have one in the coming weeks.

I'm in New Zealand so no real answer to your exact question, but I can say that a scissor lift has changed my DIY scope. Engine and transmission drop by myself. No help and no issues.

Thanks for the confirmation and cool picture - I will be ordering in the next couple of weeks!

Haven't used mine yet, but it's already a hit :-)Attachment 1151258

A-I'd not drop with the hydraulics facing the rear. One never knows what will happen, and I'd hate to damage the important stuff.
B-There is a posted mod a number of us have done to cut the center of the bar out, but a short piece of tube whose ID matches the existing OD, and bolt it on when you aren't dropping the motor. All of 1 or 2 hours work. You can even buy exact match spray paint at HD.

Where is the post that discusses that? Ordering one

Post #40 has the mod. Mine is almost done.

Compact Scissor Lift
 

I got mine from https://garageequipmentonline.com at a cost 0f £1000.00, lifts the car with ease and leaves the rear end fully accessible for servicing best of all I can leave it in position and park right on top of it.
Well worth investing in one of these lifts makes life a whole lot easier.:rockon:

I've had my Bend Pak for a couple of years. It's great for changing oil, bleeding brakes and all the other maintenence these cars need. Unfortunately, last time I was using it at full height, it developed a leak on on of the hydralic tubes. I'll have to fix it before my next oil change.

Gary

These are so awesome. I think this may be my early Christmas present.

Then again, there's this...

I now have this exact setup. MD-6XP and the lift table. And yes, turn the lift around. Very easy to lower the motor/trans and no need to remove the bumper.

Note that there is only about 3/4" clearance total for the trans mount between the rails of the lift, so you need to have the car very well aligned on the lift to make it all work out. Otherwise, you need to remove the trans mount.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...26fcb8b240.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fb70ae99a5.jpg

Oh, and Raceramps are nice, lightweight and very portable....


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...285d27aaba.jpg

Slightly OT: Fitment for larger vehicles (X5, 535i, etc)
 

Bought the MD-6XP for my p-car and my wife's 328i, but the arms are too short for a 5-series or X5. The description on the BendPak site states light trucks and has a pic of an X3 being lifted, but not sure why it won't reach the jack points for 5-series or X5.

Has anyone had luck with larger vehicles? If so, what type? I called BendPak to ask if they have longer arms, and there they have arms that are 3" longer per arm. Not quite sure that will still reach...

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

-wolf

I've been using my newly acquired MD-6XP to work on a friend's 2010 Merc E350 and although positioning is important, it was not tricky.https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f62b3de982.jpg

Picknick table for that exceptionally heavy meal?

Could someone take some close up pictures of the safety height catches for me? I was wondering how safely the scissors function is locked in place.

I will be home around 7:00 eastern and can get a photo, if no one beats me to it.

Picking up a Bendpak MD-6XP tomorrow. Aside from ramps, are there any tips for using with 993? Positions? Arm placement on lift points?

Wow! Super easy. Picked it up this morning. Two of us slid it off the trailer, wheeled it into position and tested it out. I will be removing the race deck flooring tiles directly under the lift.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...32a7d7ee5e.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b707e9979e.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a6be1388a3.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a703dc2a1b.jpg

I had RaceDeck in one of my houses. Left those tiles out and used their trim around the edges. You will want some S/S sheets under the rollers. They will wear into the concrete.

That's my plan for tomorrow. Ran out of time today.

Had my mid-rise, not a Bend Pak, but an Atlas since 2010. I have eventually put every vehicle owned since up on it, some more challenging than others. Vehicle width can complicate things...so can length. I have other minor limitations, in that mine isn’t exactly centered in the shed. I recessed mine in the slab of the addition, immediately against the existing slab. Every vehicle has dedicated lift points, but there are certainly other locations that can support the vehicle weight. My daughters Ford Fusion, and my Cayenne GTS are tough to position properly.

Centering the vehicle over the lift is critical...I bought a set of the “fancy” pucks, that twist into the lift points for the 911, from a rennlist seller.Those and other hockey pucks make it easier. Certainly other inboard points in the rear, that give options. Finite location needed when it’s oil change time. The lift has proven indispensable for basic maintenance, detailing, and wheel swapping.

If I was to do it over again, I go one step up from the 6000# rated version. Last winter I had the silver GTS on it for the weekend, doing a heavy detail of it. Wheels off, dropped it as low as I could get it...the lift struggled to raise it. I had to slide the floor jack under one side, and give it a little help. I’ve had both GTS’s up on it a couple times since, and never had that problem again.

I have 1/4” aluminum plate under the rollers, almost 10 years in and they still look great. I did have the hydraulic cylinders rebuilt last year, as the seals in one failed. Cost just as much to have a local hydraulic shop rebuild them, than if I would have bought new replacements. Higher quality American made seals, and a claimed “lifetime” warranty was the sales pitch.

Only time will tell.

I wonder if you have a different arm setup? My MD-6XP arms are 24" long (assume = standard length?) and like Magdaddy, I've lifted plenty of large vehicles no problems. The only failure was an Audi A7 series - The arms were about 1"-2" too short to match the span of the lift points and I felt uncomfortable - so I went back to lying on the cold concrete which was uncomfortable in a different but safer way. 3" longer arms actually appeal though, in case I come across another A7 style issue....

This post confirmed I should go with the MD-6XP for an engine+trans drop on my 993 (thanks!). Now 1+year later I am just starting and although I've not lowered anything yet, I cannot see why it would not work. I did not want to cut anything out of the lift so installed it 180deg and the way I have the car positioned now, the trans should drop vertically down without any part of the lift interfering. Yes, the hydraulics are there and so there is an increased chance of hitting them but I'm happier this way (versus cutting the bar out).

Looks precarious - but I pulled, pushed, bounced and rocked - seems fine and no deflection of any lift arms / parts - it looks good. The car is supported no different than during a 'normal lift', same 4 points - it is just the balance of the lift itself that I have now changed over how I normally lift. I will monitor the weight distribution change as the engine lowers just in case.

I looked here for examples of how to position the lift arms for an engine+trans drop - so maybe the below will help others:

Cheers
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c15194d759.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...098f5bb97b.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6aad191704.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e14038c7c3.jpg

^^^ Food for thought: Looking at the side view (2nd pic), I'd consider driving the car further forward for better balance on the lift. The COG is a little forward of the door handle, which should probably be positioned over the center of the lift.

Probably correct^, but not sure if you missed the part about clearance for trans.

If I'm leaving my 964 C4 on the lift for an extended period, I strap the front of the car to the lift, just in case.

Keep us posted on the progress. I am just figuring out the poistioning as well as I need to do an engine and trans drop and would prefer not to modify the lift since I would like to use for other cars like my 1st gen Cayenne (heavy beast).

You are braver than I am, I look at my '05 Cayenne S 'the Beast' and my lift, then think no way. I do my oil changes by running the front onto boards to get the clearance.

FYI: The OPC has called my Cayenne S in for a factory recall for a possible impaired connection between the selector lever and transmission which could allow the car to roll in Park if the parking brake is not fully applied. This happened to me when I had the car up on the factory jack. Scary stuff.

Good idea. I'll also lower it after finishing each day.

Will do 👍

As long as the safety locks are in place, then it's fine to leave it up. If I know the car will be up for a while I remove the wheels to keep stress off the struts which are otherwise fully extended with a lot of wheel weight pulling on them.

oil changes on the pig are easy for me by simply utilizing good old fashion drive on ramps. The lift is for wheel swaps, other basic maintenance, and detailing.

Best thing about the Cayenne is you can just set the air suspension to the highest setting and you can change the oil without needing to lift it.

Yeah, just stop. The CG of your car is not even over the lift much less centered on it. Sheesh.

The CG is over the lift. Way off center but I have eyes and saw that. As is often the case online, you threw a comment out without verifying it - I confirmed the Todynot mentioned CG location with calcs using my corner balance weights (F:1299lbs, R: 2003lbs) and wheelbase length (89.45") and the CG is as below: 35" in front of the rear wheel center. Right now it is stable and as I mentioned originally, I will monitor as the work progresses.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c2e6e9a254.jpg

This discussion/debate over CoG is well worth having given the 911s weight distribution. I’m going to calculate it for each of my cars to ensure I’m operating my lift safely. It may mean taking extra safety precautions like ensuring my gas tank is full.

CG is usually considered to be the front of the door handle. But you may have an inch or so. You might like thread for some discussion:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ft-points.html

Also, those little tabs at ends of the lift’s deck are to prevent you from hanging the arms off of the ends like you are doing.

Most of us are not so cavalier about lift safety, but whatever.

Ummmm, utilizing the four factory lift points as the above picture clearly shows...is somehow dangerous?

Not seeing it, sorry.

Thanks to everyone's input into how they're using their lifts. I spent some time over the past couple weeks experimenting with my different cars on the lift and determined that for my use, making the modification was going to be easier in the long run than turning the lift around every time I want to throw one of my other cars up in the air.

As others have noted, the modification is pretty easy and cost about $30 and a little over an hour in time. Technically, rotating the lift is a very viable optionas others have shared, but for me, it makes it a little easier now for me to position the 993 and also use on our Mercedes, etc.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c256151b14.jpg

Mine is the Chinese made lift without the bar. I note it has a heavier centre box section than the Bendpak one. That may be an area to reinforce on the Bendpak. I have not detected any lateral movement on mine. I was under there doing the transmission oil on the weekend and had the Spyder up yesterday.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9458a4983.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...dff9aca17.jpeg

Not sure you can tell what is heaver by pics, but I can say I've had no issues with my BP, and have never had any lateral movement.

Bendpak have a whole section on what makes their product more robust than the Chinese made ones so I can see the design differences.

My one has a larger box section connecting the two bars and has no other bars connecting those two. This means I can drop a C4 engine and transmission without having to put the car on the other way or cut the lift to make it work. I’m simply commenting that mine has no lateral movement as designed and I can see that the Bendpak may not be as safe if cut.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2907460c4.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...165aa1cd9.jpeg

Since my BP has 3 cross section spars vs the 1 on yours, I'm not concerned about which is "bigger", no if the subject mod is done. I'd rather have the spars spread out along the length, if truth be told than one in the center. I've dropped motors and transaxles on several 911's and did a bit of work on my old 928 without issue.

My lift is for my personal use and it's me putting my body and property on the line with each use. I can't abrogate the responsibility for my safety to an online forum but as always there's some gems from reading wider thoughts e.g. the COG discussion. To each their own.

Again, multiple crosses spread along the length seems more robust in my mind, or at least as equal as yours with the single, albeit larger, crossover.

I too put my life “at risk” when I get under it, and do not have a death wish. I’m going to keep the counter comments up to each one you make that puts forth any shred of question on the BP design, as I don’t want someone searching on Bendpaks to see your postings and have any reservations on quality or durability.

Sorry, but my interpretation is that you’re making misinformed statements when you make comments such as “Bendpak should reconsider the design, my Chinese unit has a bigger box section”.

Their products have passed the scrutiny of many users, for many years; private and commercial. Not just on crossbeam design, but locking mechanisms, etc. If you’re happy with yours, great. But don’t put out the idea that the BP design may be dangerous or weak, based on your opinion of its design. Until you put up empirical data that shows yours has a superior failure point, it’s just conjecture.

I’ve got no affiliation with Bendpak, but I’ve been a happy customer for over 15 years that has had the same lift in 3 states, 5 houses and moved thousands of miles in the process. I’ve dropped drivetrains on 3 air-coooled Porsches, and had probably 12 cars total up on the lift over the years. So, I have some experience to base my statements on.

Enjoy yours.

Last night the engine and trans dropped down nicely. One of my helpers said it was the easiest engine out he'd done, although to be fair, I'd removed a lot of stuff this past week which gave a lot of clearance around most things. We broke a grommet and small plastic clip so the damage was limited although I've not checked Porsche grommet pricing lately, I may regret ripping that one....

Made a platform/cradle for the 1000lb Harbor Freight lift table:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a1b87e230c.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3636e606a0.jpg
Touch-off point bottom rear of engine block:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8aed76f5f9.jpg

Touch-off point on trans, just forward of the drain plug:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5de6a622c9.jpg

Couple of spotters helping out:
For the first part, I decided to lower the HF table rather than lift the Bendpak - the movement control was a lot smoother.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d5250cc1ed.jpg

Once the engine + trans were low enough and everything had clearance all around, I raised the Bendpak.
18:30 we had total separation!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...07cf291f0e.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7db744061a.jpg

I also modified the table handle so it could fold away from the table to clear the heater tube running across the rear of the engine (as it comes, the handle only folds into the table, for storage). Just a couple of removable stainless pins in place of the welded handle stop-bars:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9d6f3e9e72.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c2a7ab26c7.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a80db6d09c.jpg

Having the lift made the whole stripdown process a lot more knee/back/sanity friendly. And with the clearance under the lift down the middle, I could easily get in to switch out the gear lever mechanism - got some goodies to replace and upgrade all that :)
I like this lift a lot.
Cheers

Very nicely made table. I dropped mine last winter using very similar system. Could you please publish table dimensions mine was a bit more miss than hit and misjudjed the balance point I also tore a grommet and cable tie. I originally used the cradle from Pelican with a trolly jack but it was very unstable. When I did the refit I used a transmission jack with table. Notice Vram was added.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...02ecb3db2b.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c921a49f4f.jpg

Just a thought that validates making “the mod” to the Bendpak to allow easier trans clearance: when you turn the lift 180 deg and put the lift cylinders toward the rear of the car, they are exposed to damage should something happen bringing the assembly down, or even dropping a tool on to the polished metal. Maybe minimal risk, but risk nonetheless in my mind.

^^^Awesome job dropping the motor. ^^^
I dig the platform u made

Thanks Endoman. I will post a dimensioned drawing up here.
I remember reading about your vram conversion - nice job indeed.
BTW, I am originally from Burnley :)

Yup, that was considered and it is a valid concern. I'm not getting into the debate on cutting, I just preferred not to.

Thanks a lot! I got your PM, I will post table dims. Good luck yourself!

Hey Burnley lad, I have relies there and my son lives in Ipsy, small world.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f6559079e9.jpg

Ha, very small world!

Here are some platform/cradle dims to suit the Harbor Freight 1000lb hydraulic lift table. Obviously, please make your own assessment on robustness and stability: The engine + trans weigh around 500lbs.

Apologies in advance, dimensions are in mm cos I'm rubbish at working in English/Imperial (irony....):

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8dd89037b1.jpg

I needed the table to go fairly deep under the engine (towards the front of the car) - deep enough that the heater tube (think that is what is called - cast aluminum tube running across top rear of engine) would hit the HF table handle if the handle was locked in the upright position.

As delivered, the handle folds into the table for storage - not away from the table. I've seen some unbolt the handle (4 bolts) and lay on the floor during the drop.

Instead, I ground off the two welded square bars in front of the handle (red square below) that prevent it folding backwards, then drilled two holes to suit stainless M6 caphead bolts (pins would work).
So now it can lock vertically or fold rearwards (remove 2x M6 bolts) or fold forwards (release the HF mechanism):

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...67c2c5cad4.jpg





https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c49f349aaf.jpg

For the cradle I used 3/4" (19mm :)) plywood.
Position on the HF Table is like this:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3ecbe5d94b.jpg

I used 4x stainless M10 countersink machine screws that were located to sit inside the rail areas under the HF table. Here they do not interfere with any table movement etc.
Used M10 washers, spring washers and nuts:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...41b3485dd3.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...13522c5a9a.jpg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4f33f671b4.jpg

For the engine touch-off point I used 19mm thick wood with the profile routed out 9mm deep.

I wanted this touch point to take most of the weight of the assembly, rather than the two headers on either side that I left connected for the drop - but the headers also do take some weight and provide the balance - so they sit on some foam pads glued to the plywood:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d0eb276c58.jpg

For the transmission touch-off point I used 19mm thick wood and some old aluminum stock I had. The idea (may not work) is to give a slicker surface for sliding when I split the trans from the engine.

For the 3mm thick aluminum section I actually used 1/8" (3.2mm) thick and then routed the wood to sink the aluminum down a little (0.2mm) to give only 3mm protrusion. For the 6.4mm thick section that was just 2x 1/8" thick stock. Probably doesn't need to be that specific...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...30fa422fd2.jpg

When the time comes, you align the rear face of the plywood with the vertical seam (not 'seem' :)) on the bottom of the engine block. On my car, all other points on the cradle then lined up.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d2b4a833ff.jpg

Worked for me, hope it helps others:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7f83c67f04.jpg

Cheers

Wow! Well done!! Thanks so much for sharing John. This will be a big help and much appreciated.

Multiply by .03937 to go from mm to inches.

I have a very annoying picture request.
two wires inside the switch housing pulled out of the proper slots, 1 green 1 black.
there are two phillips screws holding the cover panel(where the lift actuator button is located).
then there is a large plastic part with all the wires inside.

could someone take a picture of the wiring going into the large plastic part?
need a picture of the left side, where the outlet feeds into the box.

crazy as it sounds, the manual has no wiring diagram, the diagram on the back of the panel doesn't relate to the wiring in the box, and bend-pak tech support doesn't have a wiring diagram.
thanks

Can you post a picture? Mine doesn't match your description.
Bob

thanks
logistics are tough, lift is 50 miles away at the track and didn't have a camera yesterday when it broke.
seems like there were 6 wires total going into the plastic wire box, black white and 1 green.
the green, which I assume is the ground, is the problem, can't figure out where it goes.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...298a553772.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8395c81f4d.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...88d5963d45.jpg
Hope this helps, cover is obviously different with 4 screws. This is 115V

thanks for the pics
yes much different version, but the wiring diagram still helps.
I'll drive out today and experiment trusting the source breaker to keep the pump motor safe.

here's what the connector looks like, they change the version often.
put the black wire where it made sense, green/ground screws onto the pump housing.
still trips the breaker, could be the connector is bad.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7a121eeac9.jpg

Semi reviving this from only about a month ago. I’ve had my MD 6XP for roughly 5 years now. Today I put my Audi up on the lift in preparation for a clutch job and noticed one of the anti rotation tabs for the pin connecting the main platform to the lift arm (hydraulic side) was broken and the pin had rotated. The pin looks captured since there is a cotter pin on the other end. But wondering what the point of the anti rotation tab is then.

Anyone else had this happen on theirs?

Also wondering if your guys’ lift arms bend as much as this when lifting a 3900lbs car.

Broken Tab
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...zT2JQ6Z-X4.jpg


Other side for reference
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...mcjQTzK-X4.jpg

Bending arm- straight edge across both arms for reference. I have read somewhere before bendpak mentions this is normal to a degree, but this is bordering excessive in my opinion.
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...TRWkJwp-X2.jpg

I will be reaching out to Bendpak about both of these items, but wanted to gauge the forum too.

There is a bushing in that joint. The tab is there to insure that the rotation of the joint occurs between the bushing ID and the pin OD rather than the pin rotating in the bore of the external supports - which has occurred in your case. It is something that should be repaired to maintain the longevity of the lift. There will come a time when the pin seizes to the external supports which will make servicing / repairing very challenging. While there is no impact to integrity, the sooner you repair it the better.

Thanks for the bushing input! My reasoning for the anti rotation tab was to avoid wear on the pin, that makes perfect sense that there’s a bushing, as otherwise the rotation would just wear the pin hole instead. My main concern was safety. Having concluded (by educational reasoning) that the pin isn’t at risk of disassembling- I will look to weld the tab back in place.

this picture is confusing...that is essentially a contactor, when you push your button to engage...you are pushing in the blue portion of the above, that complete the circuit between the two ends. Pump/motor is wired to the back side of this I presume? Since this contactor breaks both lines, hot(black)and neutral(white) in a 120v application, make sure no wires jump between the sides. Use a simple volt/ohm meter if you have one...I am confused with the number of jumpers in the picture.

Disconnect the pump side, leave alone the line(cord) side, and plug in...if the breaker trips again, then you have a wiring problem on your input side.

Did any of this make sense?

sorry, should have updated this.
turned out to be two things at the same time.
wires got loose and the new track management reduced load/power or something to the track garages.
so wires back in, pump works fine everywhere but the track garage.
electric shop explained I need to hook up a multimeter to the white and black, get standard 120, then press the power button.
voltage drops to 90 or something, happens very quick. but it also pops the gfi and circuit breaker.
track management repair guys said nope, problem is your pump, doesn't matter that it works every where else.
but by then it made no difference, race season is on hold so all my tools and lift are at home where the pump works perfectly.

If the electrical system at the track garage is dropping the voltage to 90 volts when a simple hydraulic pump is activated...the electrical system in the garage is somehow over taxed. Perhaps the incoming voltage somehow changed, or they recently replaced a transformer and didn’t test the output voltage. Transformers have multiple taps to adjust the output voltage up/down a few percent to compensate for input fluctuations. Voltage that low will screw with everything...what the hell is it doing with 208v single and 3 phase loads. Voltage goes down, current draw goes up. Old GFCI’s didn’t much like motors either.

If the pump works everywhere but the garage, the problem ain’t with the pump. When it becomes track time again, if that low voltage issue isn’t corrected...don’t plug anything valuable in.