Higher mileage 993's, How well are they doing???
#1
Higher mileage 993's, How well are they doing???
I'm looking at buying a higher mileage 993 for a daily driver. Probably a 95 or 96. Just wondering how well these cars hold up over the 100,000 mile mark. Service issues etc.
If any of you have been running any 993,s over this mark let me how they are doing.
Anything major I should look for when purchasing a higher mileage 95 or 96 besides clutch, oil leaks, and compression?
Thank-You.
If any of you have been running any 993,s over this mark let me how they are doing.
Anything major I should look for when purchasing a higher mileage 95 or 96 besides clutch, oil leaks, and compression?
Thank-You.
#2
Mine is at 115k and running strong. Ive done a ton of DIYs - partially due to combing R-list for problems and partially cause the PO neglected a few things. Nothing has been a suprise or terribly expensive. The most expensive problem Ive had was a broken AC evaporator core. I would not be too concerned about oil leaks either. Sometimes they are simple flywheel seal leaks and can be corrected at the next clutch job. If you are unsure get a PPI.
#5
I'm at around the 160,000 mark. Current status:
Lower valve covers leak a little bit despite several attempts to reseal. Leak is not major so I'm not too worried about it. I also get a little oil weepage ... just about everywhere. No drips, just wet seams on the chain housing covers and various bits and pieces under the engine. I consume about a quart every 1500 miles. Good thing is that I can "see" where my oil goes, so I don't believe I have any oil "burning" issues.
I have the "hanging clutch pedal" thing, but am just used to it and will address a new clutch slave cyl when the clutch gets replaced - that is if the darned thing ever gives up on me but with the 85,000 miles I've put on the car plus however many of the 75,000 miles the original owner had put on included this clutch, the thing still bites just fine. Could I really have the original clutch still? Who knows.
I replaced the door check strap - old one clicked.
I have a burnt out fresh air vent servo - gotta get replaced.
Replaced several sensors, relays, or switches in my fixing of the a/c - not all were truly bad, but at least the a/c works now.
Put a new battery in - old one got weak.
Replaced odometer drive gear - old one melted.
Had to put a new secondary distributor drive belt in due to a busted belt on purchase at 75000 miles. (Stupid dealer )
Had new steering rack and plug wires put in prior to my purchase.
Replaced shocks a few years ago - any car getting up in miles should get new shocks if not already done. Read: good excuse to lower.
Guards Red cars: We all know they look best (as opposed to the overly strong white cars ) but Guards Red is NOT clear coated and can suffer from some serious oxidation or degradation over the years in hot sunny climates. I just finished wet sanding/machine buffing/polishing/waxing the living crap out of my car and it looks good as new now. Just check the paint good though if going red.
I'm starting to get a sort of mechanical whining sound from the rear area most noticeable on engine decelleration, but have not yet determined what it is. Could it be the clutch? (Read: I want a LWF!!!) Maybe another post on this topic later on.
I do more than the prescribed maintenance with the amount of driving I do. Oil changes 4 times a year. All major items: plugs, fuel filter, tranny fluid, brake fluid flush, dizzy caps and rotors, belts, etc., go every single year - or 20,000 miles. Did the tranny fluid this weekend at ~45 minutes total.
CV joints, wheel bearings, tranny, all other engine bits are rock solid as far as I can tell. I have driven 82 miles a day, 5 days a week, about 49-50 weeks a year for over 4 years now and the thing has never - EVER - let me down.
Lower valve covers leak a little bit despite several attempts to reseal. Leak is not major so I'm not too worried about it. I also get a little oil weepage ... just about everywhere. No drips, just wet seams on the chain housing covers and various bits and pieces under the engine. I consume about a quart every 1500 miles. Good thing is that I can "see" where my oil goes, so I don't believe I have any oil "burning" issues.
I have the "hanging clutch pedal" thing, but am just used to it and will address a new clutch slave cyl when the clutch gets replaced - that is if the darned thing ever gives up on me but with the 85,000 miles I've put on the car plus however many of the 75,000 miles the original owner had put on included this clutch, the thing still bites just fine. Could I really have the original clutch still? Who knows.
I replaced the door check strap - old one clicked.
I have a burnt out fresh air vent servo - gotta get replaced.
Replaced several sensors, relays, or switches in my fixing of the a/c - not all were truly bad, but at least the a/c works now.
Put a new battery in - old one got weak.
Replaced odometer drive gear - old one melted.
Had to put a new secondary distributor drive belt in due to a busted belt on purchase at 75000 miles. (Stupid dealer )
Had new steering rack and plug wires put in prior to my purchase.
Replaced shocks a few years ago - any car getting up in miles should get new shocks if not already done. Read: good excuse to lower.
Guards Red cars: We all know they look best (as opposed to the overly strong white cars ) but Guards Red is NOT clear coated and can suffer from some serious oxidation or degradation over the years in hot sunny climates. I just finished wet sanding/machine buffing/polishing/waxing the living crap out of my car and it looks good as new now. Just check the paint good though if going red.
I'm starting to get a sort of mechanical whining sound from the rear area most noticeable on engine decelleration, but have not yet determined what it is. Could it be the clutch? (Read: I want a LWF!!!) Maybe another post on this topic later on.
I do more than the prescribed maintenance with the amount of driving I do. Oil changes 4 times a year. All major items: plugs, fuel filter, tranny fluid, brake fluid flush, dizzy caps and rotors, belts, etc., go every single year - or 20,000 miles. Did the tranny fluid this weekend at ~45 minutes total.
CV joints, wheel bearings, tranny, all other engine bits are rock solid as far as I can tell. I have driven 82 miles a day, 5 days a week, about 49-50 weeks a year for over 4 years now and the thing has never - EVER - let me down.
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#8
105,000 miles and no major expenses after just over a year. Clutch is original and is on my list of jobs to do (I have bought the parts).
I use her every day for a commute to work and to play at weekends.
I use her every day for a commute to work and to play at weekends.
#9
Originally Posted by msw
just got 97 turbo back from its 180K service...
still original clutch, brake pads, rotors, turbos.
awesome car
still original clutch, brake pads, rotors, turbos.
awesome car
How many miles have you put on it. What issues have you had along the path to 180K miles. That is incredible. You really have the original clutch??
Roland
#13
anyone remember how many miles ray calvo had on his... if i remember right it was well over 100k. like 160? can't really recall, know someone will...
keepin' mine for the long term.
keepin' mine for the long term.
#15
And I was stressing on just turning 74K! Glad to see these higher mileage cars are running solidly. I'll be there soon! All my issues were deferred maint by prev. owner: door check strap, reverse light switch on tranny, loose leds in 3rd brake light assembly, replaced brake MC, new front rotors, fresh air flapper doesn't work, clogged SAI ports on 1-3. The last two are the only things I haven't fixed out of laziness. SAI issue is prob the biggest deal. No idea how many miles on my clutch. Could be original.