Oil change and smoke
#1
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Oil change and smoke
I recently had the oil changed at a local shop and now the right exhaut showing blue smoke. Ugh!!!! Worn value guides and thinner oil are doing this, right?
Another fellow suggested the heavier oil/smoke stop, what do you think? I have 79K on the odo. TIA
Another fellow suggested the heavier oil/smoke stop, what do you think? I have 79K on the odo. TIA
#5
What was oil level for it to be "fine" ? One quart over can cause the smoke. What grade oil was used ? If still smokes right after oil change and proper filters, and you doubled check oil level properly as Chris mentioned ... again if occurred right after oil change, I question what oil was put in there, and on the surface still seems to be overfilled if done by someone who should know 911's.
#6
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Here is one issue, only the right sides smokes. I have a cat-pass so it is only coming from one side of the block.
The oil level on the guage reads in the middle and the stick reads a bit below the last mark.
Here is one observation: I ran the car hard two days ago and the smoking stopped for a while, but then it came back the following day.
The oil level on the guage reads in the middle and the stick reads a bit below the last mark.
Here is one observation: I ran the car hard two days ago and the smoking stopped for a while, but then it came back the following day.
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#9
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The last couple quarts of oil go in veeeeery slowly on my car. There is a flexible, corrugated type tube that runs down through a channel between the engine bay and fender well into the oil tank. If you are pouring any faster than a sip, it backs up real easy. Perhaps they ended up getting a quart of oil or so all down in the engine and surrounding areas that is still finding its way down to your heat exchangers.
Amen to that. I just did a major service (oil, plugs, dist caps/rotors, all filters) this past weekend and I am reminded once again of why I do it myself.
And remember this about 993's:
Dealer Serviced = Factory Original #6, upper spark plug.
This is another reason to DIY.
And remember this about 993's:
Dealer Serviced = Factory Original #6, upper spark plug.
#11
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"Dealer Serviced = Factory Original #6, upper spark plug."
Ha ha! Ain't that the truth. That was the first plug I replaced when I did this a few mos. ago on my 993 and I took plenty of photos to prove it.
Just did a lot of work on the SC - valve adj., new plugs, fuel and air filters, oil change and brake flush. I spent under $100 on everything and I know it was done right.
Ha ha! Ain't that the truth. That was the first plug I replaced when I did this a few mos. ago on my 993 and I took plenty of photos to prove it.
Just did a lot of work on the SC - valve adj., new plugs, fuel and air filters, oil change and brake flush. I spent under $100 on everything and I know it was done right.
#12
Check to see what type and grade of oil was used. I switched from Mobil 1 15-50 to Mobil 1 0-40 last year and noticed I used much less oil then in the past on my C4S with 115K on the odometer. Could be a change in oil is causing you to burn more.
Jack
Jack
#13
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Jack: You switched FROM 15w-50 TO 0w-40 and experienced less oil burn? I was under the impression from prior posts that most had less burn going the other way (to a heavier weight oil).
#15
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FWIW regarding the use of 0w40. My 993 uses the 15w50 and always will. Recently I changed my 996's oil to 0w40 (previous owner was using 15w50). Several reasons for this change. (1). The 996 motor runs fairly cool compare the 993's air cooled motor, (2). I have some excessive valve noise during cold startup, (3). 0w40 is now the Porsche recommend fill for all new 911s (from 996+).
Recently my 996 was parked for one week and when I started the car there was very loud clacking noise, which I knew right away to be the sound of clapsed hydrauliic lifters, the noise went away after few minutes once the car warmed up.
So I think even though in theroy the 0w40 offer better cold start protection because it can circulate quicker, but because of it's thin viscustiy when cold it is not adhering to the metal components and "drains" out evetually leaving the metal surface unprotected. Which in my case the oil to hold the hydraulic lifters up collapsed....
Just a thought.
But after switching to the 0w40 for my 996, I got better gas milage, the engine revs happier and faster, and no more cold start up valve train noise... Unless I leave it parked over a week....
Recently my 996 was parked for one week and when I started the car there was very loud clacking noise, which I knew right away to be the sound of clapsed hydrauliic lifters, the noise went away after few minutes once the car warmed up.
So I think even though in theroy the 0w40 offer better cold start protection because it can circulate quicker, but because of it's thin viscustiy when cold it is not adhering to the metal components and "drains" out evetually leaving the metal surface unprotected. Which in my case the oil to hold the hydraulic lifters up collapsed....
Just a thought.
But after switching to the 0w40 for my 996, I got better gas milage, the engine revs happier and faster, and no more cold start up valve train noise... Unless I leave it parked over a week....