~~DIY Suspension Install for Dummies~~~
03-10-2006, 06:42 PM
#46
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Hi Jeff --
Great Post.
I'll be sure to reference when I decide to pull the trigger on the non-Dakar ride height option.
Need to post some 'after' pics!
see ya -- Jeff
Great Post.
I'll be sure to reference when I decide to pull the trigger on the non-Dakar ride height option.
Need to post some 'after' pics!
see ya -- Jeff
03-10-2006, 06:57 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by slider
I guess the only thing missing are the requisit side-view before and after shots...
Originally Posted by Jeff A 993
Need to post some 'after' pics!
As I mentioned in another thread, I took great pains in trying to take a few BEFORE pictures that I will be able to reproduce AFTER (including putting down tape on the ground to mark camera location and vehicle location--try keeping a 5 year old from pulling that tape up.
).Unfortunately, my car is still up on jack stands. I just finished up painting the rotor hats (which, from the above photos you can see are nasty) and just walked in from scrubbing the insides of my wheels (for the first time in their life). I need to wax them, paint my lug nuts, and then finally take the car of the jack stands. At that point, I'll finally be able to get those AFTER pictures. I will be posting them to this thread.
03-10-2006, 08:40 PM
#48
Burning Brakes
Great write-up Jeff, thanks.
I'm installing my JIC Cross units (easier since you don't have to touch the perches) and this write up will be a great reference. Progress is slow because I can't stop scraping the cosmoline off the suspension components - I hate cosmoline! Yech!
I'm installing my JIC Cross units (easier since you don't have to touch the perches) and this write up will be a great reference. Progress is slow because I can't stop scraping the cosmoline off the suspension components - I hate cosmoline! Yech!
03-10-2006, 08:55 PM
#49
Hey Jeff....thanks for both leading the group buy AND the DIY post. Only one thing: You will have to change your user name. After you get your car off jack stands, it will no longer be "In the Air"
The Jack
The Jack
03-10-2006, 10:19 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by Jack of Hearts
Hey Jeff....thanks for both leading the group buy AND the DIY post. Only one thing: You will have to change your user name. After you get your car off jack stands, it will no longer be "In the Air"
03-11-2006, 12:03 AM
#53
Jeff,
Your a class act.
Rob
Your a class act.
Rob
03-11-2006, 12:19 AM
#54
Jeff -- excellent! A million thank-yous!
Question regarding the tip on the 21mm Hazet (quoted below). I couldn't find where the 21mm Hazet is used again to torqe a 21mm nut. The new nuts on the front are 22mm. For the rear, the new nuts are 19mm (old rears are 21mm), but you mention that it's difficult to use the Hazet-Allen combo for re-assembly and suggest using a wrench instead. The reason I ask is that I'm considering buying the Hazet socket(s) to be able to torque the new stuff correctly. I don't mind using the brute-force method during removal of the old stuff. Is my current understanding correct, that the 22mm Hazet is the only one used during re-assembly, and I only need to buy one?
Quote:
"TIP: Some have used a Vise-Grip® pliers clamped to the end of a spark plug socket. The spark plug socket goes over the 21mm nut and enables a 7mm Allen wrench to fit down through the center of the spark plug socket. If you have access to a 21mm Hazet socket, this is the simpler choice and later enables the 21mm nut to be torqued."
Minor nitpick, but maybe I'm not understanding correctly... The TIP under R16 mentions "... tighten the assembly. The 21mm nut should be tightened..." Should that 21mm be 19mm?
Again, thank you. It's difficult to express how extremely impressed and grateful I am for your writeup.
Take care,
Jeff
Question regarding the tip on the 21mm Hazet (quoted below). I couldn't find where the 21mm Hazet is used again to torqe a 21mm nut. The new nuts on the front are 22mm. For the rear, the new nuts are 19mm (old rears are 21mm), but you mention that it's difficult to use the Hazet-Allen combo for re-assembly and suggest using a wrench instead. The reason I ask is that I'm considering buying the Hazet socket(s) to be able to torque the new stuff correctly. I don't mind using the brute-force method during removal of the old stuff. Is my current understanding correct, that the 22mm Hazet is the only one used during re-assembly, and I only need to buy one?
Quote:
"TIP: Some have used a Vise-Grip® pliers clamped to the end of a spark plug socket. The spark plug socket goes over the 21mm nut and enables a 7mm Allen wrench to fit down through the center of the spark plug socket. If you have access to a 21mm Hazet socket, this is the simpler choice and later enables the 21mm nut to be torqued."
Minor nitpick, but maybe I'm not understanding correctly... The TIP under R16 mentions "... tighten the assembly. The 21mm nut should be tightened..." Should that 21mm be 19mm?
Again, thank you. It's difficult to express how extremely impressed and grateful I am for your writeup.
Take care,
Jeff
03-11-2006, 09:58 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by jberb55
Question regarding the tip on the 21mm Hazet (quoted below). I couldn't find where the 21mm Hazet is used again to torqe a 21mm nut. The new nuts on the front are 22mm. For the rear, the new nuts are 19mm (old rears are 21mm), but you mention that it's difficult to use the Hazet-Allen combo for re-assembly and suggest using a wrench instead. The reason I ask is that I'm considering buying the Hazet socket(s) to be able to torque the new stuff correctly. I don't mind using the brute-force method during removal of the old stuff. Is my current understanding correct, that the 22mm Hazet is the only one used during re-assembly, and I only need to buy one?
Quote:
"TIP: Some have used a Vise-Grip® pliers clamped to the end of a spark plug socket. The spark plug socket goes over the 21mm nut and enables a 7mm Allen wrench to fit down through the center of the spark plug socket. If you have access to a 21mm Hazet socket, this is the simpler choice and later enables the 21mm nut to be torqued."
Quote:
"TIP: Some have used a Vise-Grip® pliers clamped to the end of a spark plug socket. The spark plug socket goes over the 21mm nut and enables a 7mm Allen wrench to fit down through the center of the spark plug socket. If you have access to a 21mm Hazet socket, this is the simpler choice and later enables the 21mm nut to be torqued."
Hope that answers your questions.
Minor nitpick, but maybe I'm not understanding correctly... The TIP under R16 mentions "... tighten the assembly. The 21mm nut should be tightened..." Should that 21mm be 19mm?
03-12-2006, 01:01 PM
#59
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:
(R14.) Position the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height. If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer. Once loosened, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height, but do not completely tighten (just snug).
(R14.) Position the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height. If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer. Once loosened, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height, but do not completely tighten (just snug).
03-12-2006, 02:02 PM
#60
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Originally Posted by Bogwan
Jeff, do these ever get tightened fully?
(R25.) Install the new drop links between the ends of the rear sway bar and the drop link bracket extending from the Bilstein HD shock using a 15mm socket and a 16mm wrench positioned between the drop link and the rear sway bar. Do not completely tighten.
TIP: It is critical that the rear drop links are properly positioned and tighten, including the drop link bracket on the Bilstein HD shocks. Although it is possible to generally set the drop link orientation with the vehicle raised, it is easier to lower the rear of the car to put weight on the rear wheels. While do so, you will then want to position the rear drop links and drop link brackets on the Bilstein HD shocks so that the end of the drop link bracket is in the same plane as the end of the rear sway bar when viewed directly from below. Once this is achieved, the rear drop links and drop link bracket/locking collar can be tightened. Proper positioning of these drop links ensure that the rear drop links do not break, twist, or contact the rear suspension components while driving.
TIP: It is critical that the rear drop links are properly positioned and tighten, including the drop link bracket on the Bilstein HD shocks. Although it is possible to generally set the drop link orientation with the vehicle raised, it is easier to lower the rear of the car to put weight on the rear wheels. While do so, you will then want to position the rear drop links and drop link brackets on the Bilstein HD shocks so that the end of the drop link bracket is in the same plane as the end of the rear sway bar when viewed directly from below. Once this is achieved, the rear drop links and drop link bracket/locking collar can be tightened. Proper positioning of these drop links ensure that the rear drop links do not break, twist, or contact the rear suspension components while driving.