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~~DIY Suspension Install for Dummies~~~

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:10 AM
  #151  
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No problem. Just returning one of the many favors that I have received from Rennlist!
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Old May 7, 2008 | 03:27 AM
  #152  
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Well, the long journey is now completed with the final alignment finished at Custom Alignment.
(They just installed a brand new Hunter Auto 34 machine for touch-less wheel work)

The measured ride height is approximately 130mm = Front and 110mm = Rear, roughly equal to RS ride height according to Porsche specs:

USA Standard: Front 174mm, Rear 157mm
USA Sport: Front 174mm, Rear 157mm

ROW Standard: Front 154mm, Rear 147mm
ROW Sport: Front 144mm, Rear 127mm

Carrera RS: Front 124mm, Rear 107mm
The car handles great and the stance is just right, slightly under 25" measured at each fender lip - Thanks to all
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:54 AM
  #153  
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Nicely done, Ted. Enjoy.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #154  
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Jeff - when does your new rig arrive?
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Old May 7, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #155  
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I'm having a PPI done this Saturday and, assuming it passes, early next week! (I decided to go with a 2007 997 Twin Turbo ).
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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:36 PM
  #156  
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I guess that qualifies and going a different way...last I saw, you were debating roof liner colors....excellent choice
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Old May 25, 2008 | 02:08 AM
  #157  
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Has anybody tried to leave the upper shock mounts bolted onto the car, and just remove the large 21 mm nut from the center shaft while supporting the bottom of the shock with a floor jack? The rest of the shock assembly could then be lowered out of the car.

Anybody?
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Old May 25, 2008 | 09:14 AM
  #158  
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Johan -

I think you would be making the suspension swap more difficult that way. There is some assembly of the subunit (i.e. the shock assembly) that is made ~much~ easier when the subunit is outside of the car. There are small bits that go on top and the spring needs to be twisted properly to seat in the upper shock mount.

I really think that removing the 4 small nuts from the top of the spring mount (in the bonnet) and removing the whole subunit is easier.

But, if you try your way, definitely report back.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:00 PM
  #159  
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unless you are a lumber-jack, re-assembling a strut w/ the hat still in the tower would be crushingly difficult...

just thinking about it makes me want to go see my chiropractor...
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #160  
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Finally blocked some time to get this overdue project complete (along with several others)

Front was a breeze although I've now ordered a new perch despite torque at low end of spec.

Having a heck of a time breaking the 18mm nuts loose from the rear eccentrics. Penetrant, breaker bar, impact wrench...what worked for those of you who took this on? Any way to tackle the rear install without removing the eccentrics, or does geometry require it?

Thanks.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:04 PM
  #161  
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Mark -

From my experience, the eccentric needs to come out. Perhaps someone else had success leaving it in.

To loosen the eccentric nut, you might need to wedge one end of the wrench up against the car as you use another wrench/ratchet to ~really~ crank on it.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 06:20 PM
  #162  
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Default Bilstein HD, M030, Euro Sport Ride Height Unobtainable?

Jeff,
I cannot get the rear ride height of my C4S above 114mm. The distance from the top of the adjusting ring to the center of the center line of the lower bushing is 210mm. The ring is at the top of the threads on the shock. It seems odd that the factory spring would not allow for a factory spec'd height of 127mm unless this is a Bilstein issue and the thread length is the height limit.

I don't know the thickness of the shim at the top of the strut. Is it most likely the 3mm shim? I have obtained some 8mm shims but am reluctant to tear this thing down unless I know that's the way I have to go. Even if I use the 8mm shims I will be short of the 127mm height. Maybe I should accept what I've got but I'd still like to know if this is normal.

Your advice or opinion is appreciated.

Richard Beggs
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #163  
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I started out installing a new wind shield fluid motor and saw what a mess my 993 C4S's
brakes and shock were in !
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_240.jpg
This tread gave me the motivation to change the shocks to the newer PSS10 system, new
rotors, and pads. Someone noted upgrading to S-type brake hoses, I assume they
are stainless steal ?
I got the strust out, they were horrible.
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_108.jpg
And that setup from the factory to hold the brake pipe on is strange.
By the way, is this brace stock ?
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_229.jpg
With the strut out, my local shop
got the strut apart, which so caleld hat parts do i need to use with the PSS10 system ?
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_012.jpg
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_159.jpg
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_157.jpg
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_382.jpg
The new PSS10 is here Friday, wish me luck !
http://digitalcollage.com/DressageVi...th2009_401.jpg
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #164  
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I didn't do PSS10, so I can't well with those specific questions, but I can tell you that the strut brace is NOT stock.

Good luck!!
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #165  
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So...A) thanks for this writeup, and B) I'm a little confused on setting the ride height.

I get that the rear requires setting prior to installation, but how do you know where to set it?

If the car is already lowered, and I'm swapping out suspension, can I just set the JICs so that the perch is the same level as on the PSS9s? Is it trial and error? Confused on that.

Also, when measuring the ride height from the appropriate suspension point, does it matter how level the car is? If slightly unlevel will it load the suspension unevenly? How important is perfect tire pressure then?

Finally, how far can I safely drive it prior to align, corner balance, camber adjustment, all that? I don't want to futz with the setup but am considering installation.
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