Should I continue with the SAI valve replacement?
#1
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Hi guys,
Started my 90k miles major service. Got most things taken apart already. Some of the items on my list are:
Dual distributor belt replacement
Power steering pump belt replacement
spark plugs
Distributor caps and rotors
No need for fuel filter (Replaced it about 10k miles ago)
Since the air box is out of the way I can see the SAI valve, it looks pretty good from the outside and so far I don't have any CEL lights associated with the SAI on my 993.
Should I go ahead and replace it?
Started my 90k miles major service. Got most things taken apart already. Some of the items on my list are:
Dual distributor belt replacement
Power steering pump belt replacement
spark plugs
Distributor caps and rotors
No need for fuel filter (Replaced it about 10k miles ago)
Since the air box is out of the way I can see the SAI valve, it looks pretty good from the outside and so far I don't have any CEL lights associated with the SAI on my 993.
Should I go ahead and replace it?
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#2
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The current line of thinking seems to be that the SAI check valve should be replaced every 15,000 miles. SOmebody recently noted that his was dead after like one year. So I would say definitely!
p.s. Can you get to the PS belt? I thought that was an engine-out project.
p.s. Can you get to the PS belt? I thought that was an engine-out project.
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The check valve typically looks pretty good externally regardless of condition. I think the only way to really know is by removing it and seeing what its condition really is. Otherwise, I'd follow the 10-15K replacement policy.
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I think you can get the the PS belt from both top and bottom with the air filter housing out.
I haven't attacked the replacement yet, but I can see two of the bolts of the belt cover from tops of the engine.... I wil check the bottom when I take the engine shourd off for the spark plug change.
Will keep you guys posted.
I haven't attacked the replacement yet, but I can see two of the bolts of the belt cover from tops of the engine.... I wil check the bottom when I take the engine shourd off for the spark plug change.
Will keep you guys posted.
#6
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Robin,
When was the last time that you replaced it? I, as do many others, think that this little crappy valve, has a lot to do with SAI issues. If you do replace it, check to see if it was really working as a one-way valve & let us know what you discover.
Dave
When was the last time that you replaced it? I, as do many others, think that this little crappy valve, has a lot to do with SAI issues. If you do replace it, check to see if it was really working as a one-way valve & let us know what you discover.
Dave
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Originally Posted by Robin 993DX
Just wanted to be sure...
So I need 993 113 250 03 Check valve what about? 993 113 245 01 Shut off valve???
TIA
So I need 993 113 250 03 Check valve what about? 993 113 245 01 Shut off valve???
TIA
#9
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I also think that the 15k miles thing can be misleading. If someone has a "garage queen" that 15k could take a long time. Replacement of this valve should also have a time period associated with it.
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Given the environment this valve lives in, it really needs to be stainless, just like the majority of the exhaust components. Moisture, then heat, moisture, then heat over and over each drive cycle is tough on certain materials.
Since your car is that far down, might as well replace it. They are about $65 each. Let me know if you are stuck without one, I think I have another one 'in-stock'![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
s
Since your car is that far down, might as well replace it. They are about $65 each. Let me know if you are stuck without one, I think I have another one 'in-stock'
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
s
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Originally Posted by epj993
The check valve typically looks pretty good externally regardless of condition. I think the only way to really know is by removing it and seeing what its condition really is. Otherwise, I'd follow the 10-15K replacement policy.
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Just did mine, 35K miles, perfect looking valve on the outside, junk on the inside. Made the old valve into the air-line fitting vavle, pressurized the system and got air through both sides. So, since no CEl had been thrown I decided not to flush it and hope. I would replace any valve that has not been replaced on these cars, based on what mine looked like. It can't be good for these systems to have air flowing the reverse direction and that's what happens in a stuck valve situation.
I showed the circuits that had been presented on another thread for an electronic bypass for the SAI valve CEL light to an electronics expert friend. He made some minor changes in components and we are working on a way to make a direct plug-in fix for this problem. He's used to working with high-temp epoxies for circuit board protection so I think we might be able to come up with something. I'll keep everyone here posted that might be interested in such a fix.
I showed the circuits that had been presented on another thread for an electronic bypass for the SAI valve CEL light to an electronics expert friend. He made some minor changes in components and we are working on a way to make a direct plug-in fix for this problem. He's used to working with high-temp epoxies for circuit board protection so I think we might be able to come up with something. I'll keep everyone here posted that might be interested in such a fix.