95 or 96+?
02-25-2006, 01:26 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
Face it,
95's are lighter, less complicated, less likely to fail you on emmisions, and less likely to leave you stranded (if not equipped w/ driveblock).
If something fails in that complicated induction system (Varioram) I bet you'll be thinking the 10 hp was not worth the trouble.
I don't know if it was just a fluke, but my insurance company quoted a difference of $300 a year between my '95 and a '97 C2 I looked at.
If you can find a pre-immobilizer/Driveblock car you can potentially save yourself some serious headache if one or more components fails (as these cars get older, I bet these sort of problems will become more and more of an issue).
The 10hp difference can be made up for with a DME chip. You may not even notice a 10 hp difference, I don't know.
The rear suspension setting is also a non-issue. I checked with my Dealer a couple months back and they reiterated what ViperBob posted.
All USA bound 993's have secondary air injection ports that often become clogged. If you own a OBDII car, and live in a smog area, this can cost you anywhere from a couple hundred bucks to several thousand to fix. If you've got a '95, you will probably not even bother reading all the "MY CEL is On" or the "SAI Flush/Rebuild" threads unless you're bored.
I have not seen any indicators that there is any appreciable difference in valve wear between 95 to 96+.
****, we ought to be asking more for our 95's. I'm starting a new trend. From now on, 95's will demand a premium over '96/97 narrow body 993's.
Now, with that being said, does anyone have a C2S their dying to get rid of?
95's are lighter, less complicated, less likely to fail you on emmisions, and less likely to leave you stranded (if not equipped w/ driveblock).
If something fails in that complicated induction system (Varioram) I bet you'll be thinking the 10 hp was not worth the trouble.
I don't know if it was just a fluke, but my insurance company quoted a difference of $300 a year between my '95 and a '97 C2 I looked at.
If you can find a pre-immobilizer/Driveblock car you can potentially save yourself some serious headache if one or more components fails (as these cars get older, I bet these sort of problems will become more and more of an issue).
The 10hp difference can be made up for with a DME chip. You may not even notice a 10 hp difference, I don't know.
The rear suspension setting is also a non-issue. I checked with my Dealer a couple months back and they reiterated what ViperBob posted.
All USA bound 993's have secondary air injection ports that often become clogged. If you own a OBDII car, and live in a smog area, this can cost you anywhere from a couple hundred bucks to several thousand to fix. If you've got a '95, you will probably not even bother reading all the "MY CEL is On" or the "SAI Flush/Rebuild" threads unless you're bored.
I have not seen any indicators that there is any appreciable difference in valve wear between 95 to 96+.
****, we ought to be asking more for our 95's. I'm starting a new trend. From now on, 95's will demand a premium over '96/97 narrow body 993's.
Now, with that being said, does anyone have a C2S their dying to get rid of?
02-25-2006, 01:27 PM
#32
Former Vendor
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Edward, thanks but also Paul is a very stand up guy. He must have had a good reason for saying it at the time. Remember that those sites do not get updated very often.
02-26-2006, 01:16 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by viperbob
Edward, thanks but also Paul is a very stand up guy. He must have had a good reason for saying it at the time. Remember that those sites do not get updated very often.
PCA Reiser Q&A
I'm surprised he's still saying this.
02-26-2006, 08:54 AM
#35
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok so given that Reiser, someone who knows, has recommended the suspension change and said "Changing to the later style rear suspension control arms is an absolute necessity for a track, and is close to that on a street driven car," how many of you with 95s track your car? I don't want a race car but I fully expect to track the car several times a year. Given the walls at Road Atlanta, I have no urge to see them up close.
02-26-2006, 11:01 AM
#38
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The only thing, that I can think off that might be different on those new part # for the suspension pieces is the composition of the rubber bushings,been stronger,close to RS spec.,just a guess guys,cheers,Sonny.
02-26-2006, 12:25 PM
#39
Originally Posted by TheOtherEric
That's simply not true. Heck, I can align my '93 Saturn to a 993 '96 settings if I want to. (hmmm...) I think what you meant to say is that you can't just tweak a '95 alignment settings to recreate the same suspension geometry in a '96. There are in fact minor geometry differences, yet nobody seems to know anything about them, such as exactly WHAT changed, or how MUCH it changed.
02-26-2006, 12:56 PM
#40
Addicted Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Well I'm no hot shoe, but I time trialed my 993 for 3 years, the last year on PSS9s, but otherwise all stock. I never had a problem with it. It was aligned and CB'd, with about 1.2/1.7 neg camber, and on victoracers. At the edge, it was still pretty darned predictable. Sure, getting rid of the rubber bushes would tighten things up, but that's not the question here. Oh well, just thought I'd chime in. Sorry for the harsh Reiser comment ...my apologies ...guess I was feeling a bit testy 
Edward
Edward
02-26-2006, 06:02 PM
#41
Right on, Leland! Your summary on the '95s is a nice, succinct look at their overlooked benefits and value.
Now, I just need it to warm up so that I can enjoy mine again...
Now, I just need it to warm up so that I can enjoy mine again...
03-04-2007, 10:57 PM
#42
I noticed that some people have commented that the basket handle on 95's is a negative, but I have heard it explained as a positive for the following reason. Porsche has experienced problems with the brake light mounted at the top of the rear window, and apparently to address these issues in some cases the rear window must be removed resulting in a certain amount of broken windows and much higher repair costs. No such issue when the center brake light is mounted in the basket handle. So while we can each have our own opinion on the basket handle from a cosmetic standpoint, there seems to be a plus to it as well.
