HK G36C

I hope you are having a nice and lazy Sunday. I am heading down to garage to determine if I can fix this problem and wanted some assistance.

Okay, here it goes:

When I press down the clutch pedal the clutch pedal travels back up, but stops short of traveling all the way back up. I am not expriencing any slipping or loss of power. I can reach down and pull it back or use my foot to bring it back. I had a clutch job about 2k ago with LWF, etc.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

havoc

Common 993 issue. Many threads can be found by searching this forum.
Here is another resource: http://p-car.com/diy/pedal/
Jim S.

chris walrod

In my opinion, a clutch replacement should include a new slave cylinder. Not certain if you got one, but if not, I would start there. Maybe a simple rebleed will help.

Mine was doing the same thing, I bled it and it definitely helped. Months later, I ended up replacing the slave only because I was unsure how old it was. Now my clutch pedal returns as it should.

viperbob

About 90% of the time with these cars it is the clutch slave cylinder. As Chris said, with a LWF it is not a bad idea to replace the slave cylinder before it goes bad. And it will.

AOW162435

Listen to Bob. I recently replaced my original slave and rubber line (an ardous task...). The action is smooth again.

I knew my setup was original as it had the same waxy coating as many of the other suspension components have.

Andreas

HK G36C

thanks Gents...

g_murray

I concur with my buddies.

The clutch slave cylinder does NOT last long on these babies. The symptom is exactly as you describe. The PO, of my car, had the SC replaced at 8,000 miles! Make tracks to get a new SC installed. End of story.

G.

Sooner

Other than being annoying, does the sticking clutch pedal do any damage? Does it lead to early clutch wear?

Pedro356C

Mine does that sometimes (one each 10 times I use the clutch)...but it gets free by itself after half second...I'll keep the slave cylinder in mind!!! This forum is a great help source indeed!!! Thanks...

Caveman

I had a new cluch slave cylinder fitted to address this and it worked for a while and is now doing it again! Any ideas?!

Cheers,

David

cooz

slave & master did NOT fix mine...

i had to replace kinematic lever in pedal assembly as noted on P-Car website.

cooz
aka
norm
95 C2

Alan C.

About $125 for the part, just bought one, and my guess is you will be hit for about 2.5 - 3 hours of labor with a bleed.

Caveman

Any idea how much the kinematic lever is and is it an easy DIY?

Cheers,

David

viperbob

The kinematic lever is around $50 (IIRC). They are on their 3rd or 4th iteration of this lever. Kind of a pain to install. Takes a good few hours it you have never done it before. You have to remove the entire pedal assembly from the car. You can do this without opening the brake or clutch hydraulics though. But none the less, still tight, cramped, and some what of a pain.... When I have had cars that have come from other shops with the slave and master already changed on '95s, doing the lever fixes them right up...

My attack plan on '95s is Slave Cylinder, kinematic lever, and then master cylinder.

AOW162435

Bob,
What is so different with the revised versions of this lever? Better yet, what is the problem with the original item?

Andreas