Don Plumley

Almost ready for the half-cage install. As a diversion to real work, I removed the stock windshield and headlight washer system. All this stuff:



Replaced by a factory RS washer bottle:

The factory bracket is NLA, so I made one myself. Weight savings at least 5# in hardware, 22# in fluid (11 L vs 1 L)

I cut out the really nice smooth headliner, and removed all the sunroof mechanicals. Then got out the die grinder and started to, gasp, cut out the sunroof! But I couldn't get close enough in the corner, so I'll have to leave this to a pro:



Remember this messy, glue covered stuff:


I figured this is the last time I'd have an open shot to working in here before it gets very crowded with a cage. So armed with copious amounts of 3M adhesive remover, a box of gloves and a pile of shop rags, and too many hours later, it looks like this:



Even with both garage doors open and a pretty good breeze, I can still smell the solvent when I exhale. I've probably killed a few under-utilized neurons.

Tomorrow I go to the fabricator to put in the back-half of a Cup Car cage. Hard to see in the pic, but I also pulled off the cover on the lower B pillar, so the metal trim piece can be removed to get the main hoop in nice and tight.

What's Next? My ESS Fire Supression system (Rennlist Group Buy) arrived today, so after the cage is installed, I'll put that in. I also have an RS heater bypass pipe waiting for its turn. And then suspension, install the interior, RS short shifter, lap timer, and almost ready to go!

Progress!

pcar964

Thanks for the pics, look forward to seeing it evolve!

Joe S.

Cool. How are you going to fill in the sunroof hole? Are you replacing the whole roof?

Don Plumley

Joe - I'm going to punt at this point in the car's evolution - I'll weld/bond the existing sunroof panel in place without disturbing the paint. No mood to do bondo/painting yet. There are a couple of approaches the fabricator and I have tossed around, so we'll see how it turns out. Mainly I want it to be safe.

Bill Verburg

Looks great Don!

viperbob

Very nice Don. Unfortunately I know how much work you have put into that. Can't wait to see more pics...

cowtown

Nice job, Don. I remember doing the same to my '75 (followed by several layers of POR15 which should not be necessary in your case). Hard work, but it will be worth it!

milrad

Don,

How did you wire the RS Washer Reservoir pump motor? I am in the middle of this install and see two options:

1) Cut the plug on the drivers side and splice in the wires and run them all the way back to the pssenger side under the existing harness and the RS reservoir.

2) Split the casing of the wiring harness and remove all the wires from the original reservoir (wires for 2 pumps and the fill level sensor) all the way back to the point where the wiring harness passes through the passenger side wall/inner fender. Retape the harness with black friction tape.

Number 2 would be cleaner and more in the RS spirit, with removing the extra plugs and wires and not adding wire to get back to the passenger side reservoir. I'm not so crazy about the idea of getting into the wiring harness (not sure what I'd find or problems I'd cause). Number 1 would be easier but not so clean.

Also, does the fill level sensor need to be jumpered to keep from getting a warning light?

Thanks,
Jason

Don Plumley

Jason - I cut the plug. The harness is wrapped in friction tape, spliting it all the way back to the source is a monumental project. I need to look at it tomorrow to remember where I did the splice.

I'm not getting a warning light, but I've only driven it 20 miles since I pulled the fill sensor. It would be easy enough to jumper if needed.

Ron Adair

Don -

Wow... what a project. You must be having a blast. Die grinder... eeeeow!

I can't imagine getting within 20 feet of my car carrying a plugged-in die grinder. Microfiber towels are so much safer.

Preserve those under-utilized neurons. I think they're the ones that keep this guy under control.

Ron

Don Plumley

Ron - thanks. My last Porsche was more of a polisher when I first got it. But as I drove it more, and in particular, when I drove it on the track, I realized that to have the maximum of fun, it needed to be less "precious". And it is very liberating.

Jason - I split the harness cover inside the fenderwell to expose the wires back to where the leave the main harness bundle at the fenderwell entrance. Since it did not make sense to try mess with the main harness bundle (unwrap), and rather than try to feed the new wire pair under the main bundle, I punted and ran the wires through the existing battery vent hose grommet. Since I'm putting in a sealed gel battery (Oddessy), I'll be losing the vent hose anyway. Here's a pic of the new wire entering the trunk:



I then ran the new wires (okay, I'll admit it, I used 16ga 2-conductor lamp wire -- it's flexible and black) under the harness, across the front of the trunk, and up to the RS bottle. You can barely see the wire under the harness in this picture:



I'm curious how you routed the hose. I've seen pictures where it runs forward, then enters the fender through one of the two grommet holes. I've also seen pictures where it runs to the rear, as I did. Here's how I ran the hose back to the hood:

milrad

Don,

Thanks for the great explanation and pictures!

I have not yet finalized the hose routing, but I am leaning toward routing it under the plastic cover that covers the pollen filters/air duct, out through the same grommet you used (except on the passenger side), and down to the reservoir. Your way might be better though.

I'll post a picture if this works out.

Thanks again,
Jason