Clutch, Engine Oil and Wiper questions...
#16
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I should add what some of us have already experienced - intermittant brake pad light. Very strange thing, as the wire is not completely broken yet but the light comes on when you push the brake pedal. Me thinks that it could be due to mechanical shifting of the sensor wire itself, but it is strange.
BTW, another useless tidbit - the sensors on all my BMWs were identically designed to the P sensors.
BTW, another useless tidbit - the sensors on all my BMWs were identically designed to the P sensors.
#17
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Originally Posted by wannaB_turbo
I was told by the PPI tech that it will probably need a clutch some time in the future as well brake *rotors*.
#18
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Originally Posted by wannaB_turbo
PJCONNER "I think you mean Mobil1 15-50. In most cases 0-40 is for the 996 cars. May be different where you live (your location is not stated in your info)."
Actually I went to Sunset Porsche and the guy told me that the oil to be used is 0-40W for my car as well. What kind does everyone generally use???
Also - what is the average oil "burn" on other 993's? and when do you guys add oil...every couple of thousand miles or less?
Please let me know!
Thanks!
--Andy
Actually I went to Sunset Porsche and the guy told me that the oil to be used is 0-40W for my car as well. What kind does everyone generally use???
Also - what is the average oil "burn" on other 993's? and when do you guys add oil...every couple of thousand miles or less?
Please let me know!
Thanks!
--Andy
KKim, right about the rotors. The thickness is usually checked when the pads are changed. My dealer says to change the rotors everytime you change the pads.... oh $ure! I did both a few thousand miles ago. Hopefully I am good on rotors for a while.
#19
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15W- 50 for the 993. 0W-40 for the newer waterpumpers. That's the way I understand it. 0W-40 is a much thinner oil. I'm not sure how well it would work in the ol'air cooled motor. I think some people have switched, but I'm not planning on it.
#20
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90K miles on my '95 993; still the original clutch so can't help much. On previous 911 models with 915 tranny when clutch was bad would get bad shuddering/vibration when pulling away from a dead stop.
Gotta disagree with the 15W-50 oil recommendation. Have used Mobil 1 0W-40 for years and am getting about 2500 miles/qt with no oil leaks. I remember an article written by Bruce Anderson, one of the top experts on 911s (in my opinion; writes in "Excellence" and the Porsche Club magazine "Panorama") recommending the lighter weight synthetic oils. As to where to get it - get off your butt and go down to some regular or imported auto parts stores by you. Some carry it; some don't (have a chain by you called "Autozone"? Try them.).
Wiper blades? I buy just the Bosch rubber refills; tear the old rubber out of the existing blades and replace just the rubber.
Gotta disagree with the 15W-50 oil recommendation. Have used Mobil 1 0W-40 for years and am getting about 2500 miles/qt with no oil leaks. I remember an article written by Bruce Anderson, one of the top experts on 911s (in my opinion; writes in "Excellence" and the Porsche Club magazine "Panorama") recommending the lighter weight synthetic oils. As to where to get it - get off your butt and go down to some regular or imported auto parts stores by you. Some carry it; some don't (have a chain by you called "Autozone"? Try them.).
Wiper blades? I buy just the Bosch rubber refills; tear the old rubber out of the existing blades and replace just the rubber.
#21
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Here's something from the PCA website about oil, you decide what works for you.
The 15W-50 is for warmer climates and/or tougher service, and the 0-40 is for cooler climates. I hope I did not misunderstand the question. 0 will flow better at a lower temperature than 15 will. Likewise the 50 will handle the higher temps better than the 40 will. In warmer weather and on the track I run the 15-50, whereas I run 0-40 in my street car for the cold winter weather. So I would say 'no, it only has advantages for the colder weather'.
Since publishing the note above, I have additional information from Bruce Anderson and Peter Smith to pass along. Porsche is currently recommending the following in Technical Bulletin 1701, "Engine Oils Approved by Porsche":
Castrol/Syntec 5W-50
Exxon/Superflo Supreme Special 15W-40
Mobil 1 5W-30, 10W-30, and 15W-50
Sunco Synturo Gold 5W-40
Havoline Formula 3 synthetic 5W-40
Valvoline/ High Performance Synthetic 5W-30
Note that Mobil1 0W-40 was not available yet at that point in time.
We are thinking that Porsche favors the 40 top weight over the 50 for street use because it is friendlier to the hydraulic valve adjusters (993 and 986/996) and other areas of the VarioCam valve train (986/996). In the case of the former, we have seen some of these newer cars struggle to achieve compression on startup in certain circumstances because the hydraulic valve adjusters are not pressurizing correctly.
So the revised answer is 'yes, it offers valvetrain advantages provided you keep the oil temperatures within specs'. In other words I will still run 15W-50 in my GT3 Cup car with the hydraulic valve adjusters because it is still heavier duty service than a 0-40 would be best for. But on the newer street cars the 0-40 is probably better if your climate is not hellaciously hot and you don't overdrive the car.
Joel Reiser / Bruce Anderson- PCA Website 2/02
The 15W-50 is for warmer climates and/or tougher service, and the 0-40 is for cooler climates. I hope I did not misunderstand the question. 0 will flow better at a lower temperature than 15 will. Likewise the 50 will handle the higher temps better than the 40 will. In warmer weather and on the track I run the 15-50, whereas I run 0-40 in my street car for the cold winter weather. So I would say 'no, it only has advantages for the colder weather'.
Since publishing the note above, I have additional information from Bruce Anderson and Peter Smith to pass along. Porsche is currently recommending the following in Technical Bulletin 1701, "Engine Oils Approved by Porsche":
Castrol/Syntec 5W-50
Exxon/Superflo Supreme Special 15W-40
Mobil 1 5W-30, 10W-30, and 15W-50
Sunco Synturo Gold 5W-40
Havoline Formula 3 synthetic 5W-40
Valvoline/ High Performance Synthetic 5W-30
Note that Mobil1 0W-40 was not available yet at that point in time.
We are thinking that Porsche favors the 40 top weight over the 50 for street use because it is friendlier to the hydraulic valve adjusters (993 and 986/996) and other areas of the VarioCam valve train (986/996). In the case of the former, we have seen some of these newer cars struggle to achieve compression on startup in certain circumstances because the hydraulic valve adjusters are not pressurizing correctly.
So the revised answer is 'yes, it offers valvetrain advantages provided you keep the oil temperatures within specs'. In other words I will still run 15W-50 in my GT3 Cup car with the hydraulic valve adjusters because it is still heavier duty service than a 0-40 would be best for. But on the newer street cars the 0-40 is probably better if your climate is not hellaciously hot and you don't overdrive the car.
Joel Reiser / Bruce Anderson- PCA Website 2/02
#23
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Open circuit OR grounding to the rotor (unbroken wire contacts the rotor) will trigger the brake pad warning light. That accounts for the "intermittent brake pad light".
This makes sense when you think about it - otherwise, after the wires were broken the light would turn off every time you hit the brakes because the rotor would contact both wire ends and complete the circuit.
This makes sense when you think about it - otherwise, after the wires were broken the light would turn off every time you hit the brakes because the rotor would contact both wire ends and complete the circuit.
Last edited by Dave R.; 08-24-2005 at 04:33 PM.
#24
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That makes sense, Dave, that's what I was thinking about as well. If the rotor is grounded and the system is looking for 0V to turn on the light... that makes sense.
#25
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Originally Posted by nile13
I used to be ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Now I read Dilbert and don;t laugh any more.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Now I read Dilbert and don;t laugh any more.
my clutch became really hard to depress towards the end of its life
Last edited by mborkow; 08-24-2005 at 06:32 PM.
#26
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Darin - been dying to ask, but didn't want to hijack a thread and this one covers clutches, so...how you still liking your LWF? The newest symptom I have for my worn clutch is that the tranny seems still in gear after I depress the clutch pedal..at least in first gear it does this. Realistically, I'm probably not going to be in a position to follow your lead on this until next Feb/March. But if you're still game, I'd be great to have a drop party then.
#27
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Originally Posted by Dave R.
Open circuit OR grounding to the rotor (unbroken wire contacts the rotor) will trigger the brake pad warning light.
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#28
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Originally Posted by slider
Darin - been dying to ask, but didn't want to hijack a thread and this one covers clutches, so...how you still liking your LWF? The newest symptom I have for my worn clutch is that the tranny seems still in gear after I depress the clutch pedal..at least in first gear it does this. Realistically, I'm probably not going to be in a position to follow your lead on this until next Feb/March. But if you're still game, I'd be great to have a drop party then.
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Your clutch situation is not sounding so good. Let me know when your planning the surgery, and I'll see if I can make it by.