ard

Hi,

did my 1st DIY oil change today, following Robin's instructions.

Everything went smoothly until I got to the engine filter.

I cannot get it loose! The filter wrench that worked for the tank filter slips on the engine filter, even if I tap it firmly in place. That wrench is a "74/76mm-15". Took the new filter to the autoparts shop and a 73mm wrench definitely won't fit.

Question 1: anybody run into this problem? Any suggestions?

I then tried to maneuver a "strap-type" wrench in place, but didn't have enough clearance to get it to bind. In the process of maneuvering the wrench around, I scraped, and, I think, tore a small hole into the fabric-wrapped tube that runs above and to the right of the engine filter

Question 2: is that tear repairable? Using what? The 1st thing that came to mind was high-temp header wrap, but I don't know how well that would adhere.

Many thanks in advance

/alex

deltawedge

used a pair of large channel lock pliers (Craftsman). You only get about a 20th of a turn each twist, but the mechanical advantage is enough to crush the filter into submission. Good luck.

Mike J

Question 1 : I would try another brand of filter wrench...there are plenty of ones out there. The one that I use is cast aluminum vs. the pressed steel type. It flexes less when it gets tough. You can also use the channel locks or something to deform the case of the filter just a little bit (not too much) so the filter wrench has a very tight fit and has a hard time slipping off. Its a bit of a rough spot to get to so I sympathize. Once I had to dremel tool out the transmission drain plug from my 83SC...it took about 6 hours lying on my back under the car. I eventually got it out and it sure felt good when I did...and did not touch the threads! Anyways try different wrenches. I have also, on other cars, driven a large screwdriver right through the filter and used that as a lever. You have to watch this one a bit though...if the metal rips then you might break the filter in half and then you have a real problem.

2 - this tube is used to vent the clutch...it connects to the outside of the air filter box. I would first get a quote from your parts guy to see if its cheap then replace it. You can wrap it with metal tape (I would use the ones used for dryer/ventalation vents...its aluminum and you can get it by the roll at Home Depot), its very sticky but I don't know if it will stick to the fabric. Maybe its best you replace it and the next time you will know what to avoid..

Cheers,

Mike

jkuniverse

Ard,
I did the oil change last month and fortunately it went pretty smooth. I made sure I had all the right tools prior to the DIY...especially the oil filter wrench. The wrench is made by Flotool - no affiliation but very good product IMO. I got it from Kragens; I think it was under $5 Size 7 and fits the original Porsche filter perfectly. Sorry about the other problem...not sure what it is. Good luck to you.

amfp

I bought the filter wrench at Suncoast, it seemed overpriced with discount for about $25 and took 7 days for delivery., but it finally worked well. Also do a search on oil change 993 and you will see a thread on wrenches. If you cannot find, let me know.

I did mine for the first time two weeks ago. Thought I was pretty good with the wrench, but took me 3 hours. Took about one hour just to get car up on all 4 jackstands as I should have drove car over 2x6's to make process easier. The engine drain plug took about 30 minutes to get off. Needed to have PK blaster soak in for while to get plug finally off, and use pipe to give me more torque to unloosen. I did mine when engine oil was warm and was hoping that will help.

If there is a next time, it will take me probably one and half hours. Good luck.

lenticular

I was having the same problem last weekend in regards to getting the engine oil filter off. I had success on the oil tank filter using one of those cam-type filter removers, but could not get it to engage the other filter due to the tight clearances.

Following advice I found here, I took the new engine filter to Pep Boys, and found a cup-style wrench that fit the bottom of the filter perfectly. Once home, it removed the engine oil filter with no problem. It fit so tightly that I had to pry at it with a screwdriver to get it off the old filter. All for only $5.75.

If the torn hose is the one that vents clutch dust to the air filter, a small hole in it may only mean that you are dumping the dust under the car/onto the engine. There are posts here that debate the desireability of having clutch dust dumped to the air filter in the first place (an environmentally friendly feature).

-John

pguy

Ard,

I had same problem two weeks ago. If you have cup wrench made out of cast aluminum or metal, do the followings:
- drill 2-4 small holes on bottom of the cup wrench
- place wrench on filter and tap it up firmly against filter
- drive 2-4 screws so wrench and filter attach together tightly
- use rachet (and breaker bar if you have one) and break it loose.

Worked like a charm for me! Thanks FishterD for letting me drills holes on his filter wrench

Let us know how it goes.

-pguy

ard

Hi,

thanks to everybody for their suggestions. I think I'll try pguy's suggestion and screw the wrench to the filter. I am bit worried that when I apply heavy torque on the wrench the bolts might shear the filter open, but I really hoping for the best...

Also thanks for the clarification on the mystery tube.

/alex

pguy

Ard,

More tips:
- poke a small hole right in middle of filter and let all oil drain out first.
- to be sure, try using 4 screws (I used wood screw since it has large threads) instead of 2.

Hope it works!

-pguy

tsjoel

I had the exact same problem my first oil change and used the 3 screws method above. Mine was so tight even after I had the screws in I had to use a breaker bar and place my legs on the frame of the car for leverage. I think the dealer skipped that small filter during the oil changes. Another reason to be a DIY person. My 2nd oil change last month went like clockwork. Good luck!

Ray Calvo

I use a clamp-style filter. This grabs the filter across the diameter area, and tightens up as I tighten the wrench. Went to one of these rather than the end-cap style because I had problems getting such a wrench style on and off due to the inerference with the (I assume) oil drain/vent tube running under the filter area.

I also have separate wrenches for the engine and oil tank filters.

Pete Lech

Like Ray, I used what some called a "Lock-Down" wrench. Costs $5 - 6 at the local auto parts store. As you turn it, the clamps tighten. They come in different sizes, so measure your filter before going to buy one.

You will only need it the first time, as Otto at the factory must use an impact wrench to put that damn filter on, and dealers don't change it before 30K miles. (Bad idea, IMO.) I have had no problems since as I don't overtighten it.

hdemas

I had my first oil change on my 993 take 6.5 hours thanks to a stuck engine oil filter, and it wasn't from lack of knowing what I was doing. I had all the right tools, but in the end the filter was on so tight that the filter body would deform long before it would come off. After all the correct tools failed, and the screw driver trick failed to yield results, I had to get seriously medieval on it and tear the filter apart, basically cutting it apart, being careful all along not to cut myself. I eventually cut the entire filter off except for the very top of the filter, the part that screws in. I used a set of needle-nose locking pliers and a screwdriver to then exert the torque directly to the top and that broke it free.

I hope it doesn't come to this in your case, but be comforted that it can be taken off even if it means abandoning the fancy tools and clean and elegant solutions and resorting to messy but tried and true third-world mechanic techniques.