slider

This really isn't a terribly sexy issue, but thought I'd post it for the archives for future searches if anyone else is in the same position.

The rubber grommets on the horn retaining frame on my 95 were worn out to the point of no longer having any elasticity. The PO pulled the fuse because, and I'm guessing, the horn would go off on its own since the contacts were so close together due to wore out grommets. I know this has been reported earlier and seems to occur more and more frequently.

Anyway, I contacted Pelican for a replacement part. The original part number for this frame in 1995 was 99334708800, but it was superseded to 99334708801, which they shipped. However, in Porsche's wisdom, the superseded retaining frame does not fit with the existing air bag configuration, so back goes the part (Pelican was great about taking this back since I think it was custom ordered from Porsche).

A quick check at Parts Heaven didn't yield any used parts either. Apparently, this frame was only used in 1995. Equally, the grommets were not replaceable - at least by me.

What is it they say....desperation is the mother of invention? Or something like that? Anyway, I needed to come up with a way to modify the existing grommets so that they find that renewed spring in their step...you know....walking tall and laughing easy....

I took an section of 3/8 inch rubber tubing I had around the garage from my kid's quarter midget race car, and cutting perpendicular, sliced off a 1/8 section 4 times (one for each grommet). I slid the sections over each grommet and presto...instant renewed spring. I tightened down the retaining frame and doubled checked to ensure the horn frame wasn't riding on the contacts, then reattached the air bag unit. Reinserted the horn fuse and the horn now works again.

Like I said, not a terribly sexy story, but this mod saved about $2200 which is what the dealer quoted me for a new wheel. Yeah, I know, there was no way I was going to pay that amount for a new wheel....and I'm aware that there are many places that sell new wheels for much less. Either way, I saved a ton of cash, which will now goes towards the H&R/HD suspension fund.

tj90

Slider: How did you get to the retaining frame? I dont know where to start for disassembly....

slider

you'll need to disassemble the air bag unit from the steering wheel first. Scary stuff, that is. I dissconnected the battery first and let the car sit for 5 mins just in case. Not sure this is really necessary, but I read it somewhere and thought it better to be safe.

The next step is to dissconnect the air bag unit from the steering wheel. There are two torx screws/bolts on the back side of the steering wheel. They are accessed through two holes. This is the hardest part of the fix. I don't recall the size of the torx screws, and in the end, I used a similar sized allen wrench that was approx 6 inches long to get to the screws (they are embedded). If you turn your steering wheel about 20 degrees, it helps with getting access to them, but it still a bit of a contortion to see what you're doing.

Once the screws/bolts are removed, the air bag can be pulled forward far enough towards you (the rear of the car) so you can disconnect the red coupling behind the bag. Not that it would have mattered, but I try to do that without being in the direct path of the bag if for some reason it decided to go off. Can't imagine why it would, but better to be safe. When you put the air bag aside, make sure to place the metal side down on some non-conductive surface. If the other direction, should the bag go off, it'll launch itself into the air and into anyone/thing around it.

Once the air bag wires are dissconnected, you should now be looking at the air bag retaining bracket. Four bolts hold it in place which slide thru the metal ring/rubber grommets in each corner of the bracket. You'll also see where the retaining bracket metal comes in contact with points attached to the steering wheel. When the retaining bracket contacts the points, the horn sounds. When the rubber gets worn, it looses its elasticity and the metal points just rest on the bracket.

the rubber hose fix was just what I had laying around...anything hollow and rubber, approx the same size as the grommet will work. I tested it a few times (which meant I needed to reconnect the battery) and it worked fine. Then disconnected the bat and reattached the air bag unit.

course reattached the battery. My CR-1 stereo needed the security code since it was powered down and was able to obtain the code from a local dealer just by providing my VIN.

hope this helps. Its been a year and so far, no worries.

JimGinKC

hey Joe,

did you replace the allen bolts that hold the air bag to the steering wheel or reuse the ones you have?

Thanks

Jim

slider

just reused the existing bolts

brucec59

I just completed the repair on mine. To add to Joe's info, it's a T30 Torx bolt. I used a Torx screwdriver to reach it. I had to turn the wheel 90 deg in either direction so that the hole is down (toward the floor) to get it in straight. The rubber being referred to is part of the flexible vibration/isolation mounts that support the horn ring, which in turn holds the airbag assembly.

I used four pieces of thick foam tape to push the horn ring away from the four contacts. That seems to give just enough push, and my horn now works! I noticed that the corners where the contacts are mounted were bent, complete with pliar marks, in an obvious previous attempt to fix the problem. I didn't try to bend them back. And there were washers under the mounts, which were probably not supposed to be there (I realized this only after putting it all back together with the washers). Also the fuse and the relay were out (the PO gave me the relay).

I wish I had taken pictures to share, but once you get in there, it's easy to see what's going on and how to address it. It's really an easy repair. Disconnect battery, unscrew 2 Torx bolts, pull red connector from back of airbag, remove 4 bolts, put foam tape or something else in there to add some upward support, and put it all back together.

A more elegent solution would be to replace the rubber mounts. But that would be difficult for a DIY because they're pressed into the horn ring, plus I'd have to buy a new horn ring to get the mounts, and that would cost money; this was virtually free.

Thanks Joe and others who have posted on this topic!

TheOtherEric

I would agree that replacing the rubber mounts is the best long-term solution, if it's even possible. I say that because I suspect that adding some additional flexible spacer as we're doing will essentially pre-load the rubber mount, and this constant load will likely accelerate their degradation. I broke a rubber mount, and I think this was the culprit.

So I have to wonder if the rubber mounts could be removed from a new part and pressed into our 1995's airbag frame. Sounds tricky to me.

tj90

This DIY should be posted to Robins site as well. We just need pics.

BS911

A great money-saving DIY here, but I'm curious as to when the superceded part came about. I got a new metal frame/grommet/whatever assembly direct from the dealer for about $60 if I remember correctly. (Maybe give or take $20.) It fit in my 95 (build in 10/94) perfectly. I got this replacement about 3 1/2 years ago.

The PO of my car retrofitted the horn with a wad of paper to keep the horn from blowing. About an hour into my trek home with my new car, I discovered this wad of paper, and promptly removed it. Of course, my horn started blowing on I-95. At least he didn't pull the fuse. Apparently, he was more of a "bulb-puller" kind of guy.

brucec59

A. Bauer (Porsche repair shop in Oakland, CA) told me when I got the PPI in January that they had done exactly that for another customer - took the mounts out of a new frame and pressed them into the old. I don't know what they charged. If and when the foam gives up its foaminess in a few years, I'll just re-do it. With pics. For now, it's good enough for rock and roll. I even got to use the horn this morning when some idiot in an oversize pickup came into my lane.

tj90

I just completed this DIY. I took clear ~5/8" hose cut it into 1/4 - 3/8" thick sections and placed it between the frame and the wheel. Seems to work very well. Not an exact science, many different ODs and thicknesses wouuld probably work well.

I can see why the rubber breaks down - the entire bag is suspended above the contacts with these rubber grommets. My rubber grommets were cracked.

I will keep driving with this fix until it begins to break down again. I will then consider buying a new frame and retrofitting or using the new grommets from another source.

Thanks again for this thread, another DIY mod under my belt. Now time to replace the spoiler bearing!

slider

glad this worked out OK for you TJ. I hindsight, I should have taken photos, but to be honest, I hadn't been able to find anything in the archives about this issue and figured I was alone in my horn grief, so I didn't think to take 'em. Won't make that mistake again.

TJ - is your A/C still blowing ice cubes?

tj90

Still blowing cold. I notice that its not ice cubes unless Im running down the highway (higher RPMs). if Im in stop and go traffic its cold but not freezing... I notice that the new expansion valve cycles on and off much more than the old one. I guess thats good cause I never have to deal with freezing evaporators that others on this board have complained about, but I wonder if its limiting the efficiency of the evap core? Who knows, its still working, only time will tell if it will eventually leak again.

Thanks, TJ

hkate

Just completed this DIY over the Christmas Holiday. Used 3/8" hose cut into four pieces roughly 1/8" thick. Bottom right corner needed a little thicker piece, something like 3/16" thick, as that was the main culprit of the intermittent horn. Horn works like new again. Cost a whopping 69 cents worth of hose.

One problem I did experience is that the airbag light is now illuminated on the clock. I had tested the horn before airbag reassembly and needed to reconnect battery. No airbag, apparently, triggered the airbag light when I turned the ignition to on position. In looking at other threads, the airbag light can only be reset with the Bosch hammer. So I'll be taking it to my indie shop tomorrow for reset. Next time, I won't make this mistake.

Bill Verburg

There is a repair kit available for the frame, this one is for a 996 3 spoke airbag wheel