Wreck Me Otter

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johnsopa

Kim, the front should be a bit lower than the rear. You have Bruce Anderson's book, right? Take a look at the section on suspensions and right hide.

That said, my car was really skewed corner to corner, particularly after putting the H&R coilovers in. I now have the fronts even and the rears even (side to side) with the fronts about 1/4" lower for that slight bit of downward rake, but I had to adjust spring perches to a difference of almost 1" left to right to get things right. I HAVE NOT done a cornerweighting exercise as I was more concerned with appearence than cornerweighting in this case. Who knows, maybe having one corner 1" higher than another would have had decent cornerweights. Most race shops will tell you that cornerbalancing a street car can lead to some corners being higher than others.

I'll take measurements of my car tomorrow.

I should also add that I'm pretty mechanically inclined; even so, the adjusting / readjusting took about two hours to get the ride heights evened up. Changing a particular corner can have unintended consequences on another corner.

Greg Fishman

Don't measure ride height using the fenders as your guide. There is a spot under the car that you use. I can show you were it is better than I can describe it. I think that it is the bolt where the sub frame is mounted to the chassis. Our cars where put together by hand and their will be some variance in the bodywork.

Robert Henriksen

OR... you can get the shop to corner-weight it for you. Since the front struts are height-adjustable, you can adjust the FL & FR corner heights independently. You don't want a majority of the weight on one diagonal (FR & RL, for instance) than along the other diagonal.

That'd be more important to me than consistent heights around the perimeter. But if it's strictly a street car, this isn't as important an issue as it would be at the track.

Mike in Chi

How new are the shocks

about two weeks after I took delivery of my cab, I noticed the car was definitely higher on one side. Just like you, about a 1/2 inch.

I freaked -- thought it had been damaged in transit.

After not getting a satisfactory answer from the dealer I called Reno - it was '97.

they said wait a few months, then measure. It even now.

M in C

Joe@Fabspeed

Hi Silver Bullet...some good news! Your 993 is very likely perfectly 100% normal in ride heights with the drivers side being about .5" higher than the passengers side. This is normal as when you measure the 911 when you are not seated in the drivers seat......the ride height goes up as your WEIGHT is not in the car compressing the drivers side springs. IF you get in the 911 and have someone measure the car's ride heights most probably everything will be equal.

All these cars exhibit this characteristic unless you have "super stiff" 900- 1500LB competition monosprings in which case a 200+ driver wouldnt depress the drivers side springs very much. I hope this helps. Have a great day.

joe Fabiani Fabspeed Motorsport

Robert Henriksen

Joe actually has a good point (did I say that?!?! ) -- one of the things a good alignment shop is going to do is ask you your weight. They'll do the corner balance & alignment with that much dead weight piled up in the driver's seat.

RNH

993Widebody

How are the frunt struts adjustable? We are talking about the stock Porsche sport M030 suspension, correct? As far as I know, there is no way to adjust the height except to adjust the spring perches somewhat. I think this is what you probably meant, however, what you said is slightly mis-leading as it sounds like you meant they are hight-adjustable as coilovers are.

On another note, my car also has about a .5" height difference where the fronts have more of a gap in the fenders than the rears. I also have a C2S with M030 ROW suspension and 18" wheels. I was told by my tech that there is nothing that could be done about this. Sounds like this might not be true. Also, can cornerweight balancing be done on this suspension, I thought you need a fully adjustable suspension to balance all four corners.

Thanks, I really want to get my car right if it is currently wrong. These alignments aren't cheap. And finding someone who really knows what they are doing, and will do it well is a difficult task.

Martin S.

You have received some great advice in the prior posts. The quality in general of Rennlist information never ceases to amaze me. I will tell you what I have eexperienced on alignment and corner weighting.

My car, a 1997 C2 narrow body is adjusted to the following specs, Left Front fender height 25 5/8, 719 Lbs, Right Front, 25 3/4, 670 Lbs, Left rear, 25 1/2 1004 Lbs, Right Rear 25 9/16,1025 Lbs. As you add up the weights, you can see I am in need of some Slim Fast.

A good quality alignment with corner balancing done will do the job. The front spring perches have some adjustment in them, not much, but enough to corner balance the car. The rear shocks are adjustable using shims: I believe there are three sizes. If you really want to adjust the height and corner weight of the car to within a "nats eyebrow" you will be needing to upgrade to coil over suspension such as the Bilstein PSS 9 set up. It has received rave reviews on the List.

E. J. - 993 Alumni

All good alignment shops will put the drivers weight in the seat. These are from the G&W open house two weeks ago - notice the weight in Van Overbeeks seat and the rod to hold the steering wheel straight as the alingment is done. I wish I only needed 160 lbs. of lead in the left seat.

As for the springs, they run 1500 lb front and 1800 lb rear - and still use the weight in the seat.





E. J.