Ron

Available in my garage anyway.

jnor10

Looks good, thats on my "to do" list. Some details would be great!

Jeff

Ron

Some details:

Plastic sheeting is that real thin painter's stuff you get on a roll at Home Depot, .35 mill.

Frame on ceiling is made of 1x2s and is screwed the ceiling at the points where the studs are.

Plastic is stapled to the ceiling frame with an air stapler.

No venilation system yet, I priced the type of fans you are supposed to use with flammable solvents and they are very expensive.

For small stuff venitaltion does not seem to be a problem, obviously wear a good respirator mask. I've been using my small HVLP gun and it has very little overspray, in fact I painted my front door with it and only needed to put about 4" wide paper around the permiter.

aam993

Thanks for the details regarding ventilation - I was curious about that. Do you have links/more details regarding special type of fans needed for this type of application?

What air compressor and HVLP gun you use?

Carrera Mike

Nice set up. I bet you're saving hundreds of $$$ doing that yourself. Good Job.

Ron

My compressor is a single stage IR with a 61 gallon tank capable of 100% duty cycle. It puts out 11.3 CFM at 90 psi.

My HLVP is made in England by Devilbiss. It’s Blue and it says SRI on it. I highly recommend it. I hardly bother with my much larger Devilbiss Plus gun which I think atomizes the paint a little bit better, but it has so much overspary and wastes so much paint that it's not worth using unless your painting something real big.

Link to explosion proof fan.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...542914&ccitem=


I like the one in the link because it has the ducting and everything. Graingers has others in their catalog but you would have to make ducting and a frame and all that. They are called hazardous location exhaust fans and have explosion proof motors which are rated for removing explosive and flammable vapors, they cost between I think $400 and $1000.

Carrera Mike

Ron, I painted naval aircrafts for years and always loved the old devilbiss guns. I used to leave a big ball bearing inside them to keep the paint well mixed. I never learned to get use to these High Volume Low Pressure(HVLP) types. Infact I hate them. I get orange peels or low luster effect from them.

Ron

Mike,
You should get one of these guns. It's real easy to use and does a real good job. This gun is very new I only got it either early this year or late last year. As you can see it's very small and light even with the air pressure gauge attached to the inlet. It's nice to have a gauge right there so you can keep the pressure just the way you want it.

aam993

Thanks, Ron. I'm looking forward to get similar equipment. I'm still inspired by JohnD's filling front bumperettes thread and got one step closer by dropping rear bumperettes last week(bodyshop did that).

Jim Morton

Ron:

Cool thread. I am about to paint a set of hollow turbo twists using my SATA "mini-jet" and PPG Concept LV. I used to use a Devilbiss EGA-502 touch up guns for bicycle frames, wheel, engines and such for years, then went SATA for my HVLP guns. The SRi looks interesting though. I like to multiple pot sizes.

Did you compare the Devilbiss to the SATA or Iwata small guns? I am curious as my SATA will need a rebuild soon (almost 10 years old now) and the current SATA guns do not look quite as nice quality wise as my 10 year old SATA stuff. Castings do not seem as finished. Makes me wonder about the inerds.

FWIW, I also use the visquene method in one of my shop bays for painting. After getting "fogged" out painting whole cars, I installed a 3000cfm evac fan that has overhead ducting in the ceiling. The latest thing I did to improve the paint results was to epoxy coat the floor. The painting of these latest wheels will give me an idea of how much the epoxy floor will improve things, painting wise. All in all, I would like to have things clean enough to do the final paint coats on my '74 BMW 2002tii currently in restoration.

Please show off your results when you are done.

Carrera Mike

Ron, I will definitely look into those new ones. Thanks

JohnJL

I did a 9-step paint job on my FJ this summer with basically the same setup you have with a few modifications....

1. I used heavy plastic because it was easier to tack back and didn't "follow" me as I moved around the room.

2. Plastic on the floor.

3. The "cocoon" was an entire garage bay

4. I didn't use an evac fan (my understanding is that they are so expensive because then need to be 'sparkproof' because of the volatile fumes.) I did, however, tape and seal 2 20" box fans with furnace filters in front of them. Tey pushed air IN, so they don't have the same spark requirements plus the key is to control the air in the intake...if you are "sucking" air out with an evac fan, you aren't controlling where the air is coming in and all the dust it will carry with it.

I got ZERO dust in the paint. I used a 3M full face mask and a tyvek suit. I changed th filters in the mask 2X.

No braindamage that I can detect...and the results were very good.

Harbor freight guns, 60 gal 4.5 HP compressor, PPG Epoxy primer, surfacers and Urethane topcoats.

aam993

JohnJL,

so in your setup how air was leaving the booth? Through cracks/space between plastic and floor/ceiling? And since you were keeping positive pressure inside(pushing air inside) you did not worry about those cracks?

Also, with 60 gal 4.5HP compressor I guess you were using regular(not HVLP) guns, right? Air compressor of these specs is much cheaper than the one Ron used, which is good, but people saying that HVLP guns are better(use less paint/less overspray).

Thanks.

JohnJL

Alex,
My gun was listed as an HVLP unit from Harbor freight. This was my first painting experience so I don't have experience to compare to.

I taped the plastic curtain opposite of the fans tightly around an open window. That way I had 1-way flow and minimized any unwanted spray inside the rest of the garage.

Ron

Jim,

As far as comparing the Sata to the Devilbiss SRI gun I’ve heard the Sata brand is the top of the line. I know they cost a lot more and extra tips and fluid nozzles are very, very expensive for the Sata whereas they are not expensive for the SRI. I don’t remember what I paid for the SRI, I think $200 something but less than $300. Parts are readily available for the SRI and are reasonably priced.

I’ve not painted a wheel before so I’m experimenting. I’ve sprayed stuff before but I’m definitely a rookie. I got the wheel in the photo from Autometrics. It’s a 993 wheel, it has a crack in the rear where the tire bead contacts the rim, so it’s of no use.

I did not strip the paint off and I’m only painting the face of the rim. I sanded the face with 400 sandpaper. So far I’ve primed it with an acrylic primer surfacer which is mixed with a reducer. That stuff really covers very minor imperfections well. My plan is to spray with colorcoat and then clearcoat. I’ll then take the wheel back to Autometrics where they can put it back outside for storage. I’d like to see how it stands up in the weather. The only thing that concerns me is the quality of clearcoat I’m using is not of the highest quality. But in any case I’m just practicing and I want so see if I can get a nice smooth, clean and consistent finish on the wheel.

I heard the best way to paint a wheel would be to:
1-strip old finish with aircraft stripper, (really nasty toxic stuff)
2-apply acid etching primer
3-apply acrylic primer surfacer
4-apply sealer
5-apply colorcoat
6-apply clearcoat

Do you plan on stripping all the old finish off the wheels you plan to do and do all the steps I mention above, or may more steps? I wonder about the necessity of doing the stripping. After all when a car is repainted it is not necessarily stripped to bare metal. I thought they only stripped it to bare metal if there was a problem with too much paint built up because of lots of repaints, problems with adhesion to old finish or the old finish had lots of crack in it, in other words it was falling off.