Help! Intermittent start problem (a little long)
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Help! Intermittent start problem (a little long)
Hello all,
I was hoping to get some feedback from the Rennlist brain trust on an intermittent starting problem I've got on my 1996 C2.
The problem typically goes like this. . .
I unlock the door/disengage drive block with my remote, and hop in. Put the key in the ignition and turn to the second position where all the normal chimes and lights go on and off in succession per usual. In the second position, I can operate the windows, radio, fan, etc. However, when I turn the key further to turn the starter over, I get nothing--no clicking, no cranking, no nuthin.
As I mentioned, this is an intermittent problem, and after a few hours, I can usually go back to the car, and it will turn over and run. I used to be able to re-engage/disengage drive block a few times, and it would start, but now I usually have to wait a while--could be getting worse(??)
The car has a new battery and is kept on a charger. DME relay has been updated, and my local shop just re-set the drive block system and the remotes.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Jason
I was hoping to get some feedback from the Rennlist brain trust on an intermittent starting problem I've got on my 1996 C2.
The problem typically goes like this. . .
I unlock the door/disengage drive block with my remote, and hop in. Put the key in the ignition and turn to the second position where all the normal chimes and lights go on and off in succession per usual. In the second position, I can operate the windows, radio, fan, etc. However, when I turn the key further to turn the starter over, I get nothing--no clicking, no cranking, no nuthin.
As I mentioned, this is an intermittent problem, and after a few hours, I can usually go back to the car, and it will turn over and run. I used to be able to re-engage/disengage drive block a few times, and it would start, but now I usually have to wait a while--could be getting worse(??)
The car has a new battery and is kept on a charger. DME relay has been updated, and my local shop just re-set the drive block system and the remotes.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Jason
#2
When the car doesn't start, have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then reconnecting it - no deep insight here, just theorizing that something in the drive block has got mixed up, maybe reset by the battery ?
#3
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Be sure the batteries in the remotes are fresh. It's cheap insurance to replace them and be sure. They can play fits with you if they are "iffy".
Also, I had the exact same problem that you have just last month and my battery was "seemingly" fully charged but in fact found to be faulty. These cars are extremely touchy regarding voltage drop. Check out the battery and be sure it is truly giving proper output. Just a volt under par and the car will act dead!
Also, I had the exact same problem that you have just last month and my battery was "seemingly" fully charged but in fact found to be faulty. These cars are extremely touchy regarding voltage drop. Check out the battery and be sure it is truly giving proper output. Just a volt under par and the car will act dead!
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Thanks for the replies guys.
The batteries in the remotes are new. After all the warning posts about keeping a spare, I went to my nearest Radio Shack to get a two pack.
I'll check out the battery output tonight and see what I find. Will also try Chris's idea on disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. I figure since Chris is originally from the UK, he has some experience fixing electrical graemlins (no offense Tim).
Jason
The batteries in the remotes are new. After all the warning posts about keeping a spare, I went to my nearest Radio Shack to get a two pack.
I'll check out the battery output tonight and see what I find. Will also try Chris's idea on disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. I figure since Chris is originally from the UK, he has some experience fixing electrical graemlins (no offense Tim).
Jason
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[quote]and after a few hours, I can usually go back to the car, and it will turn over and run <hr></blockquote>
This statement has me curious; does this normally happen during hot starts? If so, the starter or it's solenoid could be going. Had such a problem on my old '84 Carrera; rebuilt starter fixed it (tried a solenoid first; no luck).
This statement has me curious; does this normally happen during hot starts? If so, the starter or it's solenoid could be going. Had such a problem on my old '84 Carrera; rebuilt starter fixed it (tried a solenoid first; no luck).
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Thanks Ray.
That's an interesting thought, but this problem doesn't seem to discriminate between hot starts and cold starts.
One tech I've talked to recently thinks the problem might be with the ignition. Not sure why he thinks this since he has the same info. you all have, and he didn't see the car. Perhaps I should have him look at the starter and solenoid first??? I may be wrong, but it sounds a little less daunting than the ignition.
Jason
That's an interesting thought, but this problem doesn't seem to discriminate between hot starts and cold starts.
One tech I've talked to recently thinks the problem might be with the ignition. Not sure why he thinks this since he has the same info. you all have, and he didn't see the car. Perhaps I should have him look at the starter and solenoid first??? I may be wrong, but it sounds a little less daunting than the ignition.
Jason
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Jason,
make sure your DME relay is making good contact - plug and replug it in on the next no start.
I too would check the ignition switch. Try wiggling the key with the next no start.
Low battery or weak battery can also cause no start. Check your battery terminals for corrosion and tightness. Check for good ground. Turn on your head lights when it acts up again and see if they are bright or dim. I don't remember if our P-cars with disconnect the head lamp circuit when starting but its also a good way to check the battery's condition.
make sure your DME relay is making good contact - plug and replug it in on the next no start.
I too would check the ignition switch. Try wiggling the key with the next no start.
Low battery or weak battery can also cause no start. Check your battery terminals for corrosion and tightness. Check for good ground. Turn on your head lights when it acts up again and see if they are bright or dim. I don't remember if our P-cars with disconnect the head lamp circuit when starting but its also a good way to check the battery's condition.
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George,
Thanks for the tips. I've tried wiggling the key in the ignition, and it hasn't helped. Someone actually suggested that I reach under the dash and yank on some wires, but I've resisted that temptation.
I have yet to check on the battery condition since I need to borrow my meter back from my brother. Will also try some of your other suggestions though.
I'm running out the door to instruct at a BMW DE this weekend, so I'll be away from the board til Monday. I'll give you guys an update when I get back. I guess my last track weekend for the season will be without the 911
Thanks again guys.
Jason
ps: Chief instructor told me one of my students has a Boxster S, and the other an Audi TT. . . hmmmmm
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Thanks for the tips. I've tried wiggling the key in the ignition, and it hasn't helped. Someone actually suggested that I reach under the dash and yank on some wires, but I've resisted that temptation.
I have yet to check on the battery condition since I need to borrow my meter back from my brother. Will also try some of your other suggestions though.
I'm running out the door to instruct at a BMW DE this weekend, so I'll be away from the board til Monday. I'll give you guys an update when I get back. I guess my last track weekend for the season will be without the 911
Thanks again guys.
Jason
ps: Chief instructor told me one of my students has a Boxster S, and the other an Audi TT. . . hmmmmm
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
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So, after trying the many helpful suggestions I received from the board (thanks BTW), the car still exhibited the intermittent start problems. I gave up and brought it to a local dealer for a seek and repair mission.
I spent some time talking to the tech until he had a good idea of what the issue was--his questions and comments were reassuring. He was able to trace it to "loose connectors between the central electronic board and the starter relay". This all makes sense to me from the types of problems I was having--any thoughts or comments from the board?
I hope this is truly the root of my problem. I'm supposed to pick up the car tomorrow.
Thanks again for all of your help.
Jason
I spent some time talking to the tech until he had a good idea of what the issue was--his questions and comments were reassuring. He was able to trace it to "loose connectors between the central electronic board and the starter relay". This all makes sense to me from the types of problems I was having--any thoughts or comments from the board?
I hope this is truly the root of my problem. I'm supposed to pick up the car tomorrow.
Thanks again for all of your help.
Jason
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I had the same symptoms and investigated all the known gremlins to no avail. It turned out to be the starter relay. It was an intermitten problem and a bear to get to fail in front of my dealers mechanic.
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Don't forget that one of the symptoms of the W301 harness insulation TSB is poor starting, rundown batteries, etc...you know, the one that just came out for the 993s posted elsewhere on this forum.
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I didn't actually get a chance to pick up the car on Friday, so I'll probably pick it up later tonight. I'm still hopeful that the dealer got the gremlin. . .
As to the wiring harness recall, the dealer was right on top of it. My service advisor had a copy of the bulletin and said that my VIN didn't fall within the affected range--hopefully he's right and not just feeding me a line. Thanks Don for bringing it up, and to Chris in Detroit who emailed me separately about it as well.
Jason
As to the wiring harness recall, the dealer was right on top of it. My service advisor had a copy of the bulletin and said that my VIN didn't fall within the affected range--hopefully he's right and not just feeding me a line. Thanks Don for bringing it up, and to Chris in Detroit who emailed me separately about it as well.
Jason