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I just finished my clutch,last week,went with all stock components.I have a '95 C2 with 71k
The clutch job itself was $1700.00 parts and labor.
I ended up replacing my dual-mass flywheel with a brand new one and that added $685.00 to the ticket.
Also I decided that since the engine was down to go ahead and do a full-on tune up. So New plugs,wires,dist. caps rotors. Fuel filter,oil and filters changed, Transmission fluid, power steering fluid,brakes and clutch bled.
The ignition tune-up is big bucks, the caps and wires are expensive because of the 12 plugs.
All fluids are mobil 1 synthetic.
The whole ticket ended up setting me back $3700 after tax,done by an independent shop At $65.00 hourly shop rate.
I am very pleased that I went all out and did the extras.
At only 55k you may not need wires but caps rotors and plugs might be a good idea.
I hope this helps,
That tuneup sounds way high....looking back at receipts for my car, the plugs, caps & wires were replaced at 60K service (recommended) at a total cost of $1290. This was at a former palo alto, ca dealer in 2001 - the labor rate listed is $95/hour. Obviously, the former owner paid the tab on that one.
Might look at the threads on the lightweight flywheel option...think it is roughly the same price.
Also, you might look at upgrading the pulleys and such...when I had mine done (at 97k miles, by the way), did the new flywheel (didn't know about lightweight option at that point), upgraded the pulleys, and I think a few other assorted things in there.
thanks guys. basicaly I was told that 50-60K was about it for a clutch. I have only had it for 10k miles and it came up in the PPI anyway. I did the 45k mile service so much of the 60K may not be requred since i beleive they eplaced everything at $800K.
Dual mass flywheel seems to be an issue. Also note that RS or lightweight flywheel is a non-no per the local PCA driving instructor. Major problems with stalling etc.
My plan now is to repalce all seals since the engine is out anyway...
thanks guys. basicaly I was told that 50-60K was about it for a clutch. I have only had it for 10k miles and it came up in the PPI anyway. I did the 45k mile service so much of the 60K may not be requred since i beleive they eplaced everything at $800K.
Dual mass flywheel seems to be an issue. Also note that RS or lightweight flywheel is a non-no per the local PCA driving instructor. Major problems with stalling etc.
My plan now is to repalce all seals since the engine is out anyway...
a no-no by the pca local instructor. well for what it's worth the idling issue used to be an issue and can be worked out with software/chip upgrade. i used to have a lwf in my 964 and it made a world of difference. i'm considering swapping out a pretty new clutch on my car just to get a LWF....
on second thought one reason not to do it is will likely bump you up to a "production/prodified" type of class and you will be uncompetitive if it is the only mod you've made....
60k miles for a clutch? Hmmm, I swapped my clutch @90k miles and still had plenty of grip left. Did the swap for performance-only reasons; went with the RS LWF and RS clutch on my 95 993!
RS LWF stalled almost unacceptably (had to learn to downshift differently), but when I went to install the Unichip at The Racers Group (returned the chip because it died three days later..) and while the unichip was installed, the excellent technician "modified" my idle sensor position and adjusted the gas cable, all while the car was on the dyno, and "tuned-out" the stalling. I returned the unichip and got a full refund, but the fact of the matter is the outstanding TRG Unichip dude DID fix my stalling issue. As far as I know, no software is available to fix this issue.
Verdict on RS LWF? Superb and well worth the hassle. Throttle response is much improved and car just feels lighter. '96 and later folks have no issues here, it's just us '95 folks who have a tendancy to stall.
Hey, while in there I threw in some RS motor and RS tranny mounts - subtle but oh so sweetl
What are the symptoms of your clutch? Or are you have DMFW issues?
If you have no problems & even if the PPI guys said you should change it, why change?
When I had my PPI done, he said clucth or was FW sounds like it will go in few K miles but after ~ 10k, it's still the same.
I've had stick all my driving live I know how to do it properly, which helps but still, wait for the symptoms (if you don't have them).
When it's time to change my clutch, it will be LWFW defenately! This soft reving engine needs more 'bark' that lightweight FW brings. If my clutch fails to fail, I'll change the Flywheel at some point anyway.
Can someone please clarify for me this DMF/clutch issue? Is it only on the '95's or do '96's and later also have the DMF? What's the longest anyone has had a DMF last? I have a buddy with a '95 whose DMF is making noise at 43k miles. That's my big hang-up on some deals I've come across on '95's with 50k-70k miles that still have the original clutch and flywheel.
Even Microsoft reliability ratings show the dual mass flywheel as an issue. My clutch issue is more of a sticking of the slave cylinder than anything. I had it inspected today for a DE event and basically it is the same as it was at 45k but now at 55k. Every once in a great while it sticks a bit.
So that is the main reason for replacing it. to be honest I am a bit **** about maintenance and my Porsches. However, hopefully I only need to do the clutch and some seals and not the DMF.
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