Ignition is "sticky" when trying to turn car off?
11-06-2002 | 01:28 PM
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Ignition is "sticky" when trying to turn car off?
I just got my POST-purchase inspection done.
(I know, I know - it was supposed to be a PRE purchase inspection, but you know emotional purchases.....)
Anyway, the car had passed my own inspection with flying colors. Visually it is nearly flawless on the outside except for normal chipping to paint on the front end. The interior is virtually flawless - looks better than some showroom cars. Mechanically, I couldn't find anything when I inspected the car. For peace of mind, I took it to the local Porsche dealer for an inspection. Here's what they found:
My ignition switch feels very tight when turning the car off. It switches on easily, but feels like its full of clay when I turn the key to the left. Has anyone heard of this problem? The dealer says it's a $700 repair for a new ignition switch. Are there any other alternatives? Is there some electrically neutral version of WD40 I can spray in there to try to fix it for $5?
Other than that they said: Wow! That's a pretty clean car. Brake pads are still 75% of new. Need new tires next Spring sometime depending on how much I drive - probably have 5,000 left on the S-02's.
So overall - I LOVE THIS CAR!!!
Now - can someone help me with the key issue?
(I know, I know - it was supposed to be a PRE purchase inspection, but you know emotional purchases.....)
Anyway, the car had passed my own inspection with flying colors. Visually it is nearly flawless on the outside except for normal chipping to paint on the front end. The interior is virtually flawless - looks better than some showroom cars. Mechanically, I couldn't find anything when I inspected the car. For peace of mind, I took it to the local Porsche dealer for an inspection. Here's what they found:
My ignition switch feels very tight when turning the car off. It switches on easily, but feels like its full of clay when I turn the key to the left. Has anyone heard of this problem? The dealer says it's a $700 repair for a new ignition switch. Are there any other alternatives? Is there some electrically neutral version of WD40 I can spray in there to try to fix it for $5?
Other than that they said: Wow! That's a pretty clean car. Brake pads are still 75% of new. Need new tires next Spring sometime depending on how much I drive - probably have 5,000 left on the S-02's.
So overall - I LOVE THIS CAR!!!
Now - can someone help me with the key issue?
11-06-2002 | 01:33 PM
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From: SF Bay Area (Lafayette)
When I got a new key for mine, the ignition was very stiff and hard to turn. A few months later, it is turning more easily as the key "wears". I understand this is often the case with replacement keys. At least that is my experience. My dealer said the same thing.
11-06-2002 | 01:42 PM
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From: Moraga, California
Indy -
There is some sort of electrically neutral spray available. It is made for cleaning electrical contacts, but might be worth a try. I don't know a brand, but I got some at an electrical hobby store. I don't know if radio shack would have it - may be a bit more specialized. Heck, I'd go ahead with WD 40 and pretty much everything else in my shop before I spent the $700. What do you have to lose? Let us know what happens.
Greg
There is some sort of electrically neutral spray available. It is made for cleaning electrical contacts, but might be worth a try. I don't know a brand, but I got some at an electrical hobby store. I don't know if radio shack would have it - may be a bit more specialized. Heck, I'd go ahead with WD 40 and pretty much everything else in my shop before I spent the $700. What do you have to lose? Let us know what happens.
Greg
11-06-2002 | 02:07 PM
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I have three keys, and they are all "switchblade" keys. I'll try all three of them tonight at home to see if there's a difference between the three keys.
Thanks for the electrical shop idea. I agree - I'll try anything before $700 for a new switch. It works for now, the only issue is if it ultimately completely fails, or if I break a key off in the ignition.
Thanks for the electrical shop idea. I agree - I'll try anything before $700 for a new switch. It works for now, the only issue is if it ultimately completely fails, or if I break a key off in the ignition.
11-06-2002 | 04:15 PM
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Hey Indy,
The ignition switch has both an electrical and mechanical portion. I recently replaced the electrical portion of my switch--on occasion, the interior fan would cut out, and jiggling the key restored operation. Ignition switch operation now feels solid and precise, whereas before it was (in retrospect) loose and sloppy feeling.
The electrical portion of the switch is only a ~$30-$40 part, the mechanical part quite expensive. From what I understand, the mechanical part rarely fails.
While inexpensive, the electrical portion of the switch is pretty difficult to replace. The upper screw that secures the electrical part of the switch to the mechanical part of the switch is in about the worst place imaginable. Another option--and the one described in Wayne Dempsey's "101 Projects for Your Porsche 911"--is to grind out the shear bolts (both dash & steering column on our more recent 911s) so the whole switch assembly can be removed. That said, after I gave up on the job, Andial replaced my electrical switch without grinding out the shear bolts. According to Andial's service advisor, it took them about 3 strategically placed tools to complete the job.
I'm not sure how the dealer determined that your problem is with the entire switch, as opposed to only the electrical part. To be honest, I'm not an expert on the interface between the two parts of the switch.
Best of luck!
The ignition switch has both an electrical and mechanical portion. I recently replaced the electrical portion of my switch--on occasion, the interior fan would cut out, and jiggling the key restored operation. Ignition switch operation now feels solid and precise, whereas before it was (in retrospect) loose and sloppy feeling.
The electrical portion of the switch is only a ~$30-$40 part, the mechanical part quite expensive. From what I understand, the mechanical part rarely fails.
While inexpensive, the electrical portion of the switch is pretty difficult to replace. The upper screw that secures the electrical part of the switch to the mechanical part of the switch is in about the worst place imaginable. Another option--and the one described in Wayne Dempsey's "101 Projects for Your Porsche 911"--is to grind out the shear bolts (both dash & steering column on our more recent 911s) so the whole switch assembly can be removed. That said, after I gave up on the job, Andial replaced my electrical switch without grinding out the shear bolts. According to Andial's service advisor, it took them about 3 strategically placed tools to complete the job.
I'm not sure how the dealer determined that your problem is with the entire switch, as opposed to only the electrical part. To be honest, I'm not an expert on the interface between the two parts of the switch.
Best of luck!
11-06-2002 | 05:01 PM
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Has similiar problem, I first changed the key, no difference, than sprayed with the canned air you use for camera lens to clean key hole out, than used powdered graphite. Lastly, inserted key a few times to work in the powdered graphite. So far in last year, no reoccurring problem. I would not use WD-40 as it can attract unnecessary dirt.
