What is the least intrusive way to add 40HP to a 98 993?
11-24-2004, 10:31 AM
#46
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Everyone has their own opinion on what mods are best. That includes the "pros". I spent a fair amount of $ on my 993 C2 but was only able to scratch my HP "itch" with aTT. The only problem is the mod problem doesn't stop here. Most of the TT guys (me included) are looking for ways to make the car faster. It never stops................
11-24-2004, 12:01 PM
#47
Originally Posted by K2S
993RS wrote: "Another thing to think about is proper valve opening adjustment. Almost all Porsches delivered from the factory have not had these properly measured/set. Mine was off about 10%. This resulted in my recuperating about 20-30 hp as well."
I thought the 993's came with hydralic valve adjustment, and that the mechanical (adjustable ones) belonged to the 964 and older. Have you replaced the hydralic ones with an adjustable mechanical kit, which then I believe should yield more hp? Thanks for clarification.
I thought the 993's came with hydralic valve adjustment, and that the mechanical (adjustable ones) belonged to the 964 and older. Have you replaced the hydralic ones with an adjustable mechanical kit, which then I believe should yield more hp? Thanks for clarification.
GOD HELP US!!! 
11-24-2004, 01:38 PM
#50
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mrsullivan. I think you should do the tt. It is the ultimate kick. HP, Porsche technology, etc.
I plan to sell my cars in a year. After adjusting the to power and learning to drive the 993 and saving more money. I fell I have to have a tt to be satisfied that I have the ultimate car of my dreams. Then I guess I/we dream some more.
I plan to sell my cars in a year. After adjusting the to power and learning to drive the 993 and saving more money. I fell I have to have a tt to be satisfied that I have the ultimate car of my dreams. Then I guess I/we dream some more.
11-24-2004, 02:25 PM
#51
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Having recently had thoughts about forced induction the used 993tt engine route does have a few downsides in that it uses a different ECU and the re-wire is a PITA and frankly the turbo tecnology is stone age. Its cheaper and easier to fit new P/C a modern turbo and run on Motec. You'll end up with more power than a stock 993tt as well. If you want silly power custum build is still the better option since to get big power you need to throw away half the tt engine anyway. 
Its also worth noting 993tt engines aren't totaly bullit proof and I have heard tales of expensive engine rebuilds on moderate mile used cars.
Its also worth noting 993tt engines aren't totaly bullit proof and I have heard tales of expensive engine rebuilds on moderate mile used cars.
11-24-2004, 02:55 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by Flying Finn
Think about it for a moment, 2800 lbs modified for track, RWD narrowbody 993 with TT motor in it... 
What is this? Such easy weight aspirations my young padowan. You should aim for lower.
11-24-2004, 03:01 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by Craig W.
Buy yourself 10 days of track time at either a POC, PCA, or a professional school. This will make you a much faster and safer driver than any 40 hp mod.
11-24-2004, 03:16 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by poorb0yw
What is this? Such easy weight aspirations my young padowan. You should aim for lower.
After gaining lot of weight back (roll bar, +46 lbs) I'm in a "mode" again.
Soon after I get oil cooler, RS splitters & wing installed, my vocabulary should include a lot of Lexan, carbon fiber and aluminum...
11-25-2004, 01:00 AM
#55
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Just one more thing in respect to short gearing. I think the whole thing can be compared to a certain extent to doing a mod to raise the torque curve. In the end effect, as has been discussed in this thread and others, though the 0-60 mph acceleration improvement may not be that much (0.5 secs?) and the racetrack results also not that much better (because both cars are staying up in high revs all the time), I feel it is the everday driving which changes dramatically.
In the previous cases, you are trying to stay in the powerband all the time. Once there, not much difference. But it is in the everyday driving case, where you have quickly overtake another car, accelerate quickly coming out of a curve for a short distance before having to brake again, where you really feel it. This is why the car becomes more fun to drive - it becomes a lot more torquey...
In the previous cases, you are trying to stay in the powerband all the time. Once there, not much difference. But it is in the everyday driving case, where you have quickly overtake another car, accelerate quickly coming out of a curve for a short distance before having to brake again, where you really feel it. This is why the car becomes more fun to drive - it becomes a lot more torquey...
11-25-2004, 11:41 AM
#56
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Phil:
Keep in mind the faster you go the harder it is to shave time. When I was a kid I had a car that ran the quarter in 15 sec. With a few free/cheep mods (advanced timing, free flow air box, no cat.) I shaved an unbelievable second. My buddy with a similar but faster car did the same mods with half the results.
So taking your results at face value, you have to be happy with the results. With respect to changing gearing a sure fire way to improve acceleration is to raise your overall gear ratio. While it does keep you in the power band it is also increasing your speed by having less resistance. Much like having that lower gear available to shift to.
Keep in mind the faster you go the harder it is to shave time. When I was a kid I had a car that ran the quarter in 15 sec. With a few free/cheep mods (advanced timing, free flow air box, no cat.) I shaved an unbelievable second. My buddy with a similar but faster car did the same mods with half the results.
So taking your results at face value, you have to be happy with the results. With respect to changing gearing a sure fire way to improve acceleration is to raise your overall gear ratio. While it does keep you in the power band it is also increasing your speed by having less resistance. Much like having that lower gear available to shift to.