viperbob

Can't live without one of these. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/prec4d600f.html

Shops that use an impacts are just guessing. You don't want guessing.

George A

I had them done by two different shops (long story). The second shop did the one that broke right away, then redid everything from scratch. So, the same shop did both sides at the same time two years ago after the damage I wrote about in 2004.

Everything was new from two year ago (axle, nut, hub and bearing on both rear sides). They were at the next event where I made them re-torque all the sides after I did a couple of sessions. One side did move a little but we took them all to spec, which was 330 ft/lbs. I then marked both with polish to make sure the remained in place. I check them regularly when I change my wheels or check pressures. I don't have center caps, so they are easy to see.

Can the torque spec decrease without the marking on the nut and stub moving?

BTW, I did not see the repair done on my car. I believed what I was told. I no longer use that mechanic. I actully have a new mechanic that I really trust. I'm dying to hear what he has to say when he gets back from Sebring.

G.

Geoffrey

Just be thankful that you weren't running centerlocking hubs...

George A

Chris, are the 964's and 996's similar? Or is this just a 993 issue?

G.

jmreiser

Hey Bob, thanks for the link on that torque wrench. Very different from what I have, but I like this one better.

George- if they did not clean and lube the threads and the nut flange, then they missed the torque spec by around 30%. 330 dry and 330 lubed are very different specs.

964 & 996 are affected as well. Cup cars with centerlock as well. C4 front drive axles too. Axle nuts are axle nuts. Early 911's may have used a cotter pin to keep them from backing out, but I'd rather use a bigger nut and the higher torque of the later cars.

George A

Darn it, I just bought one of these:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

I guess I need to get the 3/4 inch one. I guess I'll add checking the torque of the axle to my normal routine. Thanks for all in the insight and information. Now I know what to look for. Thanks.

G.

viperbob

Precision Instruments makes the Snap On torque wrenchs. Much cheaper to get the Precision one. The 3/4" has a 3 foot extension that clicks on. Very easy to get to 300+ lb/ft.

George A

Thanks Bob, they are nearly half the cost of the Snap On version. Nice.

G.

viperbob

Yes George, they are 10x better than a Sears and are not much more. Best is that you do not have turn the wrench back to 0 when done to remove the tension on a spring (otherwise you will lose you accuracy). These use a split beam design that has not inherant tension.

I just picked up a new 1/2" swivel head on eBay for $100. Good tools. Many of the tool discounters sell them. Good a Google on the part number and you will find a few places that sell for a lot less....

George A

Bob, while I'm at it, one more question. I really found it interesting that I wasn't getting power to both rear wheels. I just had a LSD put in last year. So, when the car came to a halt, I put in in first gear and gave it some gas. Nothing happened. It revved freely as if the clutch didn't engage. Is my LSD dead or since there was not acceleration/deceleration, it didn't engage?

G.

chris walrod

Your diff is more than likely fine, its just that when one side loses all load, it will free wheel. It needs at least some load to get the ramps to press into the clutches.

George A

Thanks!!!!!! I was really worried that I had already fried it.

G.