Wreck Me Otter

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DJF1

Kim, Just be carefull with the battery wire that goes to the engine. At least on my 95 it runs on the right side next to the tunell under the insulation and ends hugging the front of the rear right seat base before it goes back to the engine.
at first it was not visible at all but it is there!
Good luck!

E. J. - 993 Alumni

Kim,

I had the same problem with the factory seat belt retractors when I put in my roll bar. I was told you have to be very careful to have the belt reel exactly level in its mount or the belt wont release. Not exactly sure why, but try rotating it slightly as you pull it out.

Not sure why the outer eye bolt hits the seat rail - is your bolt too long. I have lots of room on both seats for my outside eyebolt. Are you screwing it directly into the stock floor bolt hole? If not, you should since that way the eye bolt can always stay in there wiht the factory belt attached all the time.

Don't know anything about SChroth harnesses and dont understand your last question.

Good luck and hope this helped a little - I know what a pain it can be to do this stuff for the first time.

E. J.

Marco Polo

[quote] The cam-lock remains attached to the outboard side of one seat and the inboard side of the other seat. <hr></blockquote>

I had this situation with some Simpson belts. Perhaps the fix is similar for Schroth.

The belt ends of both lap belts are the same: a tab with a hole. The one that remains attached to the buckle has a full-length pin thorugh it. The other four or five positions have pins that are slant-cut at one end and spring loaded to allow a belt end to push against the bevel and slide the pin enough for the belt end to clear the pin into it's hole when the spring snaps the pin back into place. The cam mechanism unlocks the belts by retracting all of the slant-cut pins.

To change the permanently attached belt side, the cam-lock buckle is disassembled and the attached belt is moved to the other side of the buckle, it's full length pin swapping positions with a bevelled pin.

On the Simpson buckle, there are several (5 or 6) allen-head bolts holding the two halves of the buckle together. Once they have been removed, one half of the buckle can be lifted and the pins repositioned as easily as moving chess pieces. The procedure is a bit tricky, though, because every thing is loose and the pins are resting sloppily on their springs. If you're good at doing little puzzles where you keep five BBs in place while the sixth is maneuvered into position, you'll enjoy this project.

In fact, you could attach the buckle to any of the belt ends (harness, sub, or lap), but the laps are the only practical ones to use. (On my car, I wanted the buckles outboard because there is plenty of room between the seats and the door sills to stow the buckles, but the inboard side allowed them to strike the leather-covered console.)

JC in NY

The Schroth sewn thing should be inboard on each side to prevent the occupants from banging into eachother.

E. J. - 993 Alumni

[quote]Originally posted by Silver Bullet:
<strong>I have the eye-bolt in the lower front seatbelt hole with the OEM belt still attached. I've got it cranked down pretty thightly and it sligtly hits the seat rail when the seat is moved backward. I did not remove the metal spacer sleeve that is used by the OEM belt, am I supposed to remove it?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Not sure what you mean by the metal spacer, but I know that on my car and some others I have helped with the eye bolt doesnt get close to the seat rail. Only thing I can think of is that you got the longer eye bolt. I know OG sells both short and long ones and I tried the long ones once and they wouldnt even tighten down - they were just too long.

Don't know what else it could be. Lots of us are running around with those eye bolts permanently mounted in our cars.

E. J.

Tom T.

[quote]Originally posted by Silver Bullet:
<strong>The spacer is about 3/8". That could explain why mine hits. I can probably remove it since the OEM belt won't rotate anyway due to the pressure from the spring loaded washer that came with the eyebolt.</strong><hr></blockquote>

The spacer is your problem. When I removed mine the seat rail no longer hit the eye bolt.

Tom

Marco Polo

IF the Schroth buckle works the same as the Simpson, I made it sound more difficult than it is. I just wanted you to know what was entailed before you had it apart. I'm not very handy. When I took one partially apart, I decided it was too much for me (and too critical to get wrong!). My mechanic did it in about five minutes.

Flying Finn

So DAS is not straight bolt-on roll bar?

Are there any roll bars out there that doesn't need drilling (I'd rather not do that...)

Same question for Harness, I thought there are harnesses that you don't drill holes to install them?

DJF1

[quote]Are there any roll bars out there that doesn't need drilling (I'd rather not do that...)

Same question for Harness, I thought there are harnesses that you don't drill holes to install them?
<hr></blockquote>

FF, Robert on another post said that the DAS for the coupe is installed without drilling. Mine on my cab did require to be bolted on the floor (6 holes) and used the back seatbelt holes to bolt the aft part of the bar.
To accomodate the Schroth 6 point harnesses, I used the Brey Krauze eye bolts for each side of the seat without drilling. The eye bolts mount one side where the bottom part of the 3 point belts is mounted on the chassis and the other one on the seat where the 3 point locking attachement bolts. This way the 3 point is usable for daily use. The Schroths mounted for the sides and the antisubs on these eye bolts using the clip on type which you have to specify when ordering. They are easy to remove when not used this way. The shoulder harness mounted directly on the bar behind the seat and although it came with a clip my mechanic prefered to wrap around them on the bar. They rest hanging behind the seat when they are not used,so for daily use you dont even see them...

Flying Finn

Thanks Danny,

That sounds like I wanted it to sound.

PeanutinCA

Kim,
I put my DAS bar in a few weeks back. Same problem with the seat belts not wanting to initially release, then later retract. To release it needs to be held upright against a hard surface but you probably got that much already. My bar (got it used on Ebay) did have small holes for the nipple on the back of the belt retractor but they didn't seem to align. I had to jiggle the belt canister before locking down the bolts. BUT, I ALSO had to tape the sound proofing material behind the side cover because the belt would stick to it ever so slightly and stop the belt from retracting. I placed duct tape were the belt would run to provide some 'slip' so to speak. It's not perfect but it works.

As for sub belts, drill through the floor, it doesn't hurt so much after the first few seconds....

BTW, how did you go aligning the rear bolts for the main bar/hoop then the holes to the cross member. I was smashing my head against the bar trying to get those bolts in. Kind of defeats the purpose of the protectant measures I'm taking isn't it?

Good Luck,
Dylan.

p.s. No spacer behind the outer eye bolt.

Flying Finn

Thanks Kim!

And yes, please write an DIY when you're done and don't forget to mention all the mistakes (we all make some!), makes it harder for me to repeat)

DJF1

[quote] Danny - So you mounted the sub-belts to the side eyebolts?...hmmm...I don't know if I like the sound of that...

<hr></blockquote>

yeah funny ha? I had the same question to the person that sold me on the 6 point harness and she said that this is the way they do mount! You know the 6th piece is really one piece with a middle hook for the buckle and mounts on both sides. if you see the Schroths you will understand. Brey Krauze also said to me the same thing! The 5 point type harness it is one straight piece with the buckle at the end and then you need to bolt it under the seat. The problem here is that you need seats that have the hole in the middle of the seat to have the 5th point work effectively.Our stock seats dont. I rode in an instructors 911 Turbo which had the stock seats and the 5th belt mounted infront of the seat on the floor and It did not do much for the belts to hold me in place as this piece precluded the shoulder harnesses to be very tight on my body. Only they were tight on the shoulders which does not helm much does it?
What can I say, it works!!!

PeanutinCA

You know I would have concluded that the sub belt, single or double was for the event of a roll over, to stop you front hitting the roof? The lap belts if placed in the optimal position should hold you down and back, the shoulder straps should hold you upper body back. If your flinging up out of the seat (presumming no sub belt) then I want to come drive that track. Your own weight should hold you down, until you go upside down. That's when the sub belt should come into play. Of course at that point I think a whole lot more would be going on but we wont go there. As someone else says, keep the shiny side up!!

Cheers,
Dylan.