Valve Guide replacement and “while your at it” repairs
09-22-2004, 08:04 PM
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Valve Guide replacement and “while your at it” repairs
Howdy fellow car fanatics!!
I’m researching the valve guide replacement repair and would like some input from the Rennlist Collective. I plan to keep my car for a long time, so if this repair is needed, I want to take care of any other repairs or upgrades, and prepare my budget accordingly (whew!!).
Results of multiple searches and cross-searches (and overall trying to understand what the heck I’m getting into) are summarized below. This list includes items to replace and other “while you’re at it” items to repair while the car is torn apart.
Replace valve guides and “while your at it” list:
Complete valve job
Valve seals
Clean heads and cam tower air injection passages (carbon build-up issue)
Install non-factory guides (OEM is too soft)
Exhaust valves
Additional “may want to consider upgrading while you’re at it” list:
Performance valve springs and titanium retainers (for track junkies)
Clutch
Lightweight flywheel
Even more “money burning a hole in your pocket so why not” repairs and upgrades (not sure on these, may be something completely different):
New rod bolts
Rod bearing
Intermediate shaft bearings
Main bearings
Premium grade gaskets
Okay, so my questions:
1. Any recommendations on non-factory valve guides?
2. Any recommendations on more “while your at it” items or things I shouldn’t bother with?
3. Any dreamy things I should consider? Ya know, 3.8 conversion maybe? Yeah, huge question, but while I'm asking....
Thanks in advance!! Much appreciated!
I’m researching the valve guide replacement repair and would like some input from the Rennlist Collective. I plan to keep my car for a long time, so if this repair is needed, I want to take care of any other repairs or upgrades, and prepare my budget accordingly (whew!!).
Results of multiple searches and cross-searches (and overall trying to understand what the heck I’m getting into) are summarized below. This list includes items to replace and other “while you’re at it” items to repair while the car is torn apart.
Replace valve guides and “while your at it” list:
Complete valve job
Valve seals
Clean heads and cam tower air injection passages (carbon build-up issue)
Install non-factory guides (OEM is too soft)
Exhaust valves
Additional “may want to consider upgrading while you’re at it” list:
Performance valve springs and titanium retainers (for track junkies)
Clutch
Lightweight flywheel
Even more “money burning a hole in your pocket so why not” repairs and upgrades (not sure on these, may be something completely different):
New rod bolts
Rod bearing
Intermediate shaft bearings
Main bearings
Premium grade gaskets
Okay, so my questions:
1. Any recommendations on non-factory valve guides?
2. Any recommendations on more “while your at it” items or things I shouldn’t bother with?
3. Any dreamy things I should consider? Ya know, 3.8 conversion maybe? Yeah, huge question, but while I'm asking....
Thanks in advance!! Much appreciated!
09-22-2004, 08:19 PM
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How about suspension. I seem to recall that when pulling out transmission, you need to align. If you need to align anyway, might as well do suspension while your at it. Also if you are near a major service, might as well do spark plugs, wires, etc. if needed since much easier access with motor out.
My 60k is coming up and am considering a similar list that my break the bank.
My 60k is coming up and am considering a similar list that my break the bank.
09-22-2004, 09:38 PM
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LWF and RS clutch?
Good point mentioned above about suspension. If you have any thoughts of suspension refreshing, get it done now (its only money) while you will (should) realign the car post engine/trans removal.
Good point mentioned above about suspension. If you have any thoughts of suspension refreshing, get it done now (its only money) while you will (should) realign the car post engine/trans removal.
09-22-2004, 09:45 PM
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maybe replace the air pump and check valve for the secondary air injection system??
09-22-2004, 10:32 PM
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Years ago we use to use silicon/bronze guides as an upgrade for early VW/Porsche air-cooled engines. Haven't heard much about these anymore. It might be worth looking into. Anyone else have comments on this?
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09-23-2004, 12:18 AM
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Well researched, all the tasty mods, and even a very spiffy format. You're *sure* you're a girl? Wow 
Your third category is all bottom-end stuff. I *think* that the cost curve makes a big jump once you split the case, as compared to just working on the top end; but that's something to check w. the real experts, not just us impersonators on the Internet.
Power steering belt is definitely a good one! One thought would be that if you're not after more noise, just re-securing or replacing the engine bay insulation is the other way to go. It has a way of starting to drape down onto the motor.
The motor mounts are very simple to swap out with the motor in place.
Kim... clutch 'cable'??
The bottom end on these cars are very strong, and regularly go hundreds of thousands of miles w. regular oil changes. Upgrading rod bolts is something I've only seen recommended if you're building a race motor and need to raise the redline over 7k+, necessitating a switch to solid lifters, etc. For your street/DE car, this is all way beyond what's necessary/prudent.
Oh, JohnD dropped his motor recently and performed quite a laundry list of chores While He Was In There. You've probably already reviewed that one, but fyi just in case you'd missed it.
My sense on the 3.8 is that it doesn't produce NEARLY the bang for your buck that makes sense for anyone but a racer. In racing you really care about that last half a car length down the straightaway... some even enough to spend that kind of money. If it's perkiness under your right foot you're after, then in addition to the RS clutch/flywheel, a regear of the tranny is the way you want to go. You're spot-on with alternate valve guides; but for acceleration performance, you can spend a whole big pile of money on tranny overhaul/regear/steel synchros, to better effect.
I think you've got two distinct phases here, in terms of big lumps of cash w/o very much overlap:
1 - engine top-end rebuild/update w. associated minor maintenance 'window of opportunity' plus suspension
2 - Transmission - regear, freshen synchros and/or upgrade to steel, shift forks, add aftermarket LSD
the RS clutch/flywheel you could do as a part of either half. Depending on how the $ numbers look, I'd be tempted to do the clutch/flywheel as part of the engine overhaul. That way, you'll experience firsthand how much of an impact each portion of the work has.
Oh, and ship your tranny to Glen or Greg's guy - not the local shop!!
Your third category is all bottom-end stuff. I *think* that the cost curve makes a big jump once you split the case, as compared to just working on the top end; but that's something to check w. the real experts, not just us impersonators on the Internet.
Power steering belt is definitely a good one! One thought would be that if you're not after more noise, just re-securing or replacing the engine bay insulation is the other way to go. It has a way of starting to drape down onto the motor.
The motor mounts are very simple to swap out with the motor in place.
Kim... clutch 'cable'??
The bottom end on these cars are very strong, and regularly go hundreds of thousands of miles w. regular oil changes. Upgrading rod bolts is something I've only seen recommended if you're building a race motor and need to raise the redline over 7k+, necessitating a switch to solid lifters, etc. For your street/DE car, this is all way beyond what's necessary/prudent.
Oh, JohnD dropped his motor recently and performed quite a laundry list of chores While He Was In There. You've probably already reviewed that one, but fyi just in case you'd missed it.
My sense on the 3.8 is that it doesn't produce NEARLY the bang for your buck that makes sense for anyone but a racer. In racing you really care about that last half a car length down the straightaway... some even enough to spend that kind of money. If it's perkiness under your right foot you're after, then in addition to the RS clutch/flywheel, a regear of the tranny is the way you want to go. You're spot-on with alternate valve guides; but for acceleration performance, you can spend a whole big pile of money on tranny overhaul/regear/steel synchros, to better effect.
I think you've got two distinct phases here, in terms of big lumps of cash w/o very much overlap:
1 - engine top-end rebuild/update w. associated minor maintenance 'window of opportunity' plus suspension
2 - Transmission - regear, freshen synchros and/or upgrade to steel, shift forks, add aftermarket LSD
the RS clutch/flywheel you could do as a part of either half. Depending on how the $ numbers look, I'd be tempted to do the clutch/flywheel as part of the engine overhaul. That way, you'll experience firsthand how much of an impact each portion of the work has.
Oh, and ship your tranny to Glen or Greg's guy - not the local shop!!
09-23-2004, 11:32 AM
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Lots of great suggestions, thanks so much, I am so appreciative. Ask and ye shall receive - woohoo!!
Since the cost with the valve guides is mainly labor, replacing wearing parts while the engine is out seems appropriate.
A still have a few remaining questions...
I saw in my archives search that some people have used bronze guides instead of the OEM guides. Anybody have an opinion on the best replacement guides? Viperbob has recommended titanium for track junkies, which I would not categorize myself, but if the cost is not much different, I might opt for it. Anybody done these?
Since the cost with the valve guides is mainly labor, replacing wearing parts while the engine is out seems appropriate.
A still have a few remaining questions...
I saw in my archives search that some people have used bronze guides instead of the OEM guides. Anybody have an opinion on the best replacement guides? Viperbob has recommended titanium for track junkies, which I would not categorize myself, but if the cost is not much different, I might opt for it. Anybody done these?
09-23-2004, 11:47 AM
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All -
Is headstud pulling an issue on 993s?
Would it be wise to replace head studs and other hardware with Raceware or ARP products?
No affiliation yada yada
Is headstud pulling an issue on 993s?
Would it be wise to replace head studs and other hardware with Raceware or ARP products?
No affiliation yada yada
09-23-2004, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Henriksen
Well researched, all the tasty mods, and even a very spiffy format. You're *sure* you're a girl? Wow
...yep still am.
09-23-2004, 05:12 PM
#14
I used manganese-bronze guides on mine but others may have different opinions They were originally used on the 935s and found to be quite durable even in that application, supposedly that alloy is the toughtest available.
I also replaced the head studs w/ the Porsche Motorsports versions used on the 993tt, 993RS et al. they don't pull but are subject to the same sort of breakage as all the other aluminum blocks. It's just a matter of time.
I also replaced the head studs w/ the Porsche Motorsports versions used on the 993tt, 993RS et al. they don't pull but are subject to the same sort of breakage as all the other aluminum blocks. It's just a matter of time.
