hotrodc4s

If you have a Becker unit, then the "gravity" latches that are on the Alpine built units (used in 964 and some '95 993's it seems) won't apply. The ebay link posted by Jason is right for the Becker removal keys. You can get these at the dealer as trackjunke posted. I can sell you some if you wish, I stock a few that I ship with new radio's to 993 and 996 owners. I don't know a good substitute, these latch securely in place and unlock the deck, also giving you something to pull with. Email me for radio installation instructions, they don't cover the speed sense and reverse for the TP, but have other info about sliding the deck in, access to the rear, and the critical antenna booster connection that many miss.
email me directly with any questions.

-Rod

Dudley

BobbyT,

Are the speaker connections on the Crutchfield Adaptor shown reversed in polarity? From my reading of the diagram, the Crutchfield left front positive wire is a white wire, while the TP left front negative is white and the negative is white/black. If you transpose all the speaker connections - does it matter?

Dave

hotrodc4s

If all of the speaker connections are reversed, then it won't matter, but if any are not, then you'll have one or more speakers "out of phase" with each other, reducing bass response and affecting sound overall. The easy way to test a system for out of phase speakers is to roll the balance adjustment and fader adjustment to each corner and if bass response improves, then there is at least one speaker out of phase. I'd perform the test on just the fronts, roll balance from the middle to the left and right alternately, if bass doesn't improve noticeably as you move to just one "side", then you're fine. Then do the same with the rear speakers by themselves, then do the same front to back with the fader on all and each side.
I think the Crutchfield harness should be correct, but I don't know what supplier they use. There are a handful of companies making these harnesses: Scosche, Metra, American International, and the harness is the universal Audi/VW Blaupunkt/Becker style plugs. The trick is that in some applications the red (switched/accessory) is correct, sometimes it's swapped with the (yellow) constant/battery lead in different brands of cars. The wise thing is to test or read the schematic on the factory deck you're pulling out if it has one. I don't remember offhand which is which, but my radio installation instructions detail this for various year 911's. These instructions are free when buying equipment from us, or for any Rennlist member who inquires by email. I can simply attach the .doc format to an email reply.
The speaker wires for the 911 since about '88 to 1998 are: white positive, white/brown negative for left front, black positive, black w/brown negative for front right speaker, yellow and yellow/brown are left rear, red and red/brown for right rear speaker. (This is likely committed to memory for life, I'll rant about this to my grandchildren who'll likely roll their eyes!) The 993 cars with Nokia Hifi setup have more wiring, including some that's not used except in DSP equipped cars. I end up replacing the Nokia (great phones...) amplifier with a real amplifier and using the standard colors for the doors (white for l/f and black for r/f) and locate crossover networks for the new speakers on the door panel as the factory did 1988-1994. Pictures of the installation process are at www.caraudioinnovations.com under "installation tips", with several pages dedicated to the 964 and 993.
It's important to make sure to connect that antenna booster wire in any case, a solid blue on most aftermarket harness adapters. Non hifi cars will have the speaker wire terminate in that harness behind the radio, hifi cars have only power there, with a DIN cable feeding the factory radio preamp signal to the Nokia amp under the passenger seat.

'hope this helps!

-Rod

Dudley

Thanks Rod. I called Crutchfield and they were very pleasant but not a big resource.

Dave

hotrodc4s

coolness Dave,
Crutchfield is a great outfit. They follow "MAP" guidelines like we do at my store, we always have the same pricing as them since it's the "minimum advertising price" on the same brands/models. I don't believe in the Becker stuff because of what I see as fundamentally poor sound quality/frequency response and reliability. Crutchfield personnel are very helpful and they have good return policies, but they lack experience of even a box store installer, who work on cars day in and day out. (The local box stores around here send all the Porsches our way, as well as MBZ, Audi, BMW...and anything they're frightened of-I wish more places knew their limitations!) I'm happy to answer questions specific to the 911, my favorite all around car and a bit of a car stereo/security specialty for me since 1991 when I started my biz. I'm at a bit of an advantage compared to most shops because of the sheer number of 911's I work on and customers I take care of all over the U.S. and several other countries. (Man, what a job, talking Porsches and stereos every day!) Sorry, I get a bit excited.

One thing that I've learned is that the 911 interior is exceptionally conducive to a nice sound system, without blowing tons of cash if you have a tried and true basic system layout, the brands aren't even that critical, but sound, quality equipment is essential, and things like crossover settings and proper wiring and connections are critical to getting your money's worth. I like to set crossovers on amplifiers before shipping them to our customers in cases where I'm shipping the stuff out. When guys bring their car to my shop I have the settings already in mind as I'm wrapping things up, then I get to hear it ('doesn't matter that it's 911 system number 400 or whatever, it still knocks my socks off when done "right", or "the system" as I call it), and most importantly, another Porsche owner gets to hear it, and I experience their reaction. Rewards abound, and I continue making a living simultaneously. 'sorry, I'm carrying on.

Questions are always welcome, 1-800-892-6430. In this past week I've shipped a Nakamichi head unit and Audison amp to a fellow in Texas (prior customer with an '88 factory slantnose turbo), a pair of our subwoofer panels to a fellow in Mass and another in L.A.. I've got a couple more orders, another 993 setup and a 964 enclosure package to work on and try to ship out tomorrow. All the while I've got this bustling little shop with 4 guys I keep busy with local business on all kinds of cars. The feedback from you guys and our local customers really keeps me going.

-Rod

Dudley

I pulled the CR-1 Radio/Cassette last night and I was surprised to see the round plug for the stock CD player. Has anyone interfaced the stock CD player with the Traffic Pro? At least there must be another harness converter.

Dave

Dudley

It does not seem as though the TP is compatible with the CDC-2 changer. I am not willing to spend the time and effort to develop my own interface so I will not be going forward with the install. I could buy a Becker CD changer or go the Phatbox/iPod route but this takes me a little too far afield. I thought the TP was cool but I do not want to venture too far from OEM and I will not change out all my stock equipment to support it. Maybr if Rod is listening, he might just sell me a more efficient pair of spreakers to satisfy my audio upgrade craving.

Dave

Oh, yeah I did get my radio out - what is with all that sticky foam sprayed everywhere. Yikes.

BobbyT

I think the sticky foam is an anti-rattle effort. The plugs on my CR-1 were wrapped with foam tape, probably for the same reason.

BobbyT

Dudley

I should have read Jason's post more closely. If you have the CDC-3, you are all set. The CDC-2 will not work.

hotrodc4s

I'm not as familiar with compatibility among the factory changers and head units. (I'm so disappointed the sound of the Becker stuff I'm more inclined to simply replace it!) I'm glad someone else knew. Right on.

Efficient speakers? actually, the factory Nokia speakers are pretty efficient, however, I think they leave much to be desired in terms of sound quality and power handling. The tricky part of upgrading speakers on a 993 is that these cars come with factory component speakers in the doors, and I consider it unwise to run head unit power (which on an aftermarket head advertising 50x 4 is more like 22 x4 at 10%+ distortion....), so it's a bit more complicated. I recommend a good set of door speakers, such as Focal Access if you want super budget style at $299/set, or Focal Polyglass at $399/set, both, IMHO, represent great value. I know other brands that cost more and deliver less. There is a step up with the Polykevlar line with the budget 165KF at $499, and the ultimate, either the 165KP at $699/set or 165K2P set at $899, but the two latter are tricky to fit unless your car has the hifi door panels. All of these are 2-way sets, 6.5" midwoofer. The first 3 examples have a tweeter small enough to fit inside the factory tweeter pod on all 993's, the latter 2 sets have a larger (and just plain supreme sounding) tweeter, which I like to mount behind the large hifi cover above the mid, angled to play through the grill. (I remove the Nokia enclosure from each door in the process, which exposes the factory standard midwoofer opening in the door panel, then the large cover goes back in place when it's all done-night and day improvement in sound, but exactly the same appearance as before). I highly recommend an amplifier, at least to drive the door speakers, and my favorite brands/models fit under the passenger seat, making wiring and trunk space happier. I have installed the Focal Access line speakers and run them with deck/head unit power, and they do work, you just have to watch out for even the tiniest bit of distortion, since that apparently heats up and damages speakers. Windows down at speed make it hard to hear distortion, and that's actually when you really need a bit more power behind the speakers. More power than needed is better (sort of like the flat six, hehe), since you have room to turn it up, and your equipment isn't working at or near its limits most of the time.

'hope this helps!

-Rod

ColoradoMark

I'm about ready to install my TP. I have taken the old CR1 out and the Cructhfield adapter harness has arrived. Questions:
1. There is a black wire with a spade connector wrapped around the antenna co-ax wire and under it's taped wrapping, what is it?
2. The other loose wire, coming from the right, is the wire for the security system from the old radio, right?
3. Any other words of wisdom?

Thanks,

Mark

Dudley

Mark,

1. That black wire is the antenna amplifier power. It connec to a matching white wire. I have a picture of it above.
2. I do not recall another loose wire. What color is it?
3. Get you hands on the wiring diagram in from the shop manuals.

I sketched a wiring diagram for the connectors. I will look though my notes if interested.

Dave

ColoradoMark

Thanks Dudley, if you have a wiring diagram I think that would be great to have/post.
Is the white going to a power source for the amplifier, does the black wire attach to the amplifier on its oehter end?

Dudley

That's correct Mark, as a matter of fact the black wire connects to pin 5 of the black pug on the radio. The antenna amplifier return runs throught the antenna shielding.
i will get my notes together ASAP. Have you been on the Bimmer site? Lot of good stuff there. John Felker was also a big help.

Dave

Dudley

Mark while you are waiting, check out this post!

Do a search on "Head unit help"


Wiring diagrams here as well.


Dave

Mark PM your address and I will send hard copies. Wiring diagrams don't scan easily.