Ben in Plano, TX

JHB,

I have a 5 gallan carboy that I collect brake fluid in. My local dealership (there's that relationship thing again!) will dispose of my used brake fluid and oil along with theirs.

Ben

STLPCA

[quote]Originally posted by Robert Henriksen:
<strong>Wouldn't brake cleaner be just a wee bit too aggressive for a plastic bottle?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Robert
Not for the plastics used in the Motive - I've had no adverse effects (no softening, discoloration, etc.). I don't soak it, just a light spray, slosh & run out the hose & a light spray of the black pump exterior area. I do the same to my drain bottle & hose. Brake cleaner evaporates quickly & w/o any residue.

Martha Stewart tip of the day: Brake cleaner is also great for "dry cleaning" many spots from clothing (check for color fastness & fabric damage on hidden area)

BTW, since I tend to use lots of the stuff & have never found any difference in brands, I buy the least expensive spray I find - e.g., K-Mart's Penske brand.

Greg Fishman

[quote]Originally posted by jhb:
<strong>I am still wondering what you all do with the old fluid? My local dump takes motor oil, but I have no idea what to do with brake fluid. Should I just take it to one of those Haz Mat collections each year, the ones where they collect old paint etc...</strong><hr></blockquote>

JHB,

My local quick lube place takes it. They dump it all in the same containers. I think the big no-no is anti-freeze.

KC993

Ben,

I just wiped mine dry and let sit with top opened. When using the next time, just run the fluid through the tube and dump the first few ounces...

See you at MSR ...

tom_993

[quote]Originally posted by jhb:
<strong>Should I just take it to one of those Haz Mat collections each year, the ones where they collect old paint etc...</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yep, that works. In our neighborhood, we have “household hazardous waste” collection sites. They take everything from oil and brake fluid, to used pesticide containers and even empty hair spray bottles!

George Helser

I called Motive months ago for advice on cleaning and they said don’t clean it, just run some new brake fluid through it prior to the next flush.

Regards,
George
In sunny Arizona

P.S. Prior to calling Motive, I cleaned it with denatured alcohol which worked fine and did not seem to hurt anything.

pookee

I must be doing something wrong .
I just don't understand where all of the bubbles are coming from.

Ray Calvo

From Pookee:
[quote]I must be doing something wrong .
I just don't understand where all of the bubbles are coming from <hr></blockquote>

Did you ever try shutting off the computer, picking up the phone, and calling Motive Products? You could have a defective unit (you-know-what happens at times)

pookee

Funny you say that Ray,
I spoke to Motive Products and they sent out a replacement.
Now I can get back to my computer! <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

Scott B

Pookee,

I just used the Motive bleeder for the first time this weekend before a DE on Sunday. I started on the right rear and bled a full 800ml before the bubbles stopped. The left rear did the same thing. When I went back to the shop to buy some more ATE fluid, I spoke with a p-car mechanic who told me air was being sucked around the bleed screw threads and into my drain tube(he used the term venturi action.)

My operating assumptions on this were that as long as:
1. I have positive pressure on the system
2. I don't let the resevoir run out of fluid
3. I don't release the pressure while bleed screws are open

then air can not be introduced into the brake system.

Your bleeder may not be defective. You may simply be experiencing this purported venturi action. Has anyone else experienced this?

E. J. - 993 Alumni

[quote]Originally posted by Scott B:
<strong> Has anyone else experienced this?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yes, with practice you learn to tell the difference. Move the nipple and the hose around a little and you will see the micro bubbles either slow down or speed up. The bubbles you are trying to get out of the system are the bigger ones that start to flow right away and then there are ususally one or two good sized ones that appear when you start beating on the caliper with your rubber mallet.

E. J.

Ben in Plano, TX

Yes,

I've seen these bubbles from the bleed screw. They become more prevalent the more you open up the bleed screw. If you just barely crack the bleed screw enough to start the flow they don't appear as much.

These don't matter though because they are in the fluid going OUT of the brakes - not the fluid you are pushing INTO the brakes.

Ben

Greg Fishman

How far are you opening the bleeder valve? Should need less than a half a turn. Also make sure the plastic tubing you use fits tight on the bleeder valve. I agree with what Ben said but it is nice to know that you don't have any air in the system. I want to be 100% confident in my brakes when I have to scrub off speed at the end of the 4000ft back straight at VIR. (Anir you don't know what you are missing!)

Greg

Scott B

[quote] How far are you opening the bleeder valve? <hr></blockquote>

It really depended on the valve. It seemed that the inside valve consistently bled faster than the outside value. I tried to adjust the flow from each so that they were flowing at the same rate. I was using 10-15psi in the bleeder. Will increasing the pressure in the bleeder cause the two values to flow at a more similar rate?

Ben in Plano, TX

Scott,

I use 20 psi and things bleed pretty fast.

Remember that especially in the back - far away from the master - that the first side of the caliper you bleed you are also bleeding all the brake lines up to the caliper. When you switch to the other side you're only bleeding the caliper itself. So the first side you do will take much longer than the other.

Ben