Two questions, slow start when sitting, 2. Chip Id#
#1
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I did not drive my car for about two weeks and when I went to start it, it turned over 3 or 4 times before it would start????? Is the battery going bad? starter? I drove it for an hour or so and parked the same thing happened when I went to restart it. I drove back home about an hour and the next few days it started fine??? Is this something normal?
Question 2. My car is a 95 6 speed I want to order a chip but don't know what the Chip # is. When you select a chip they give you two choices and for the life of me I can't find the number on my car. Does the 95 993 6 speed have a standard number? Thanks for any input.... <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
Question 2. My car is a 95 6 speed I want to order a chip but don't know what the Chip # is. When you select a chip they give you two choices and for the life of me I can't find the number on my car. Does the 95 993 6 speed have a standard number? Thanks for any input.... <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
#3
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The ECU # is on the ECU, under the drivers seat.
Those are Bosch numbers. Both the Bosch number & the Porsche # should be on the ECU via decal...
The key words being "should be."
Buzz the drivers seat all the way back, look under the front of the seat, & see if you see said decal (on the silver ECU box). If not then repeat the procedure, but buzz the seat all the way forward & peek under from the rear.
You will need good eyes, or just remove the seat.
Those are Bosch numbers. Both the Bosch number & the Porsche # should be on the ECU via decal...
The key words being "should be."
Buzz the drivers seat all the way back, look under the front of the seat, & see if you see said decal (on the silver ECU box). If not then repeat the procedure, but buzz the seat all the way forward & peek under from the rear.
You will need good eyes, or just remove the seat.
#5
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You will most likely need to remove the cover from the DME to see the label. The cover is secured by shear bolts that may require drilling to replace. I cheated and had my mechanic remove the seat drill the bolts and get me the number when the car was in for repairs. He was polite but indicated it was a PITA (Pain In The A@@).
For example see here <a href="http://www.rennsportsystems.com/~porsche/1aa.html" target="_blank">Rennsport Systems</a>
For example see here <a href="http://www.rennsportsystems.com/~porsche/1aa.html" target="_blank">Rennsport Systems</a>
#6
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I replaced the chip in my ’95 several years ago. I seem to recall a –01 or –02 at the end of the part number (or was it a –A or –B?). It was this trailing digit that was of interest to the chip maker. The number was on the outside of the DME box. I don’t recall if I had to remove the box to see it. Perhaps I used my little mechanics mirror to get the numbers. Steve at Rennsport systems would know for sure. Give him a call.
#7
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[quote]Originally posted by tom_993:
<strong>Steve at Rennsport systems would know for sure. Give him a call.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I'm sure Steve would know, but if GTR 993 isn't buying the chip from him, wouldn't that be just a bit tacky? Steve is quite generous with his (free) Rennlist help, but I'm sure that doesn't pay his rent. Just a thought
<strong>Steve at Rennsport systems would know for sure. Give him a call.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I'm sure Steve would know, but if GTR 993 isn't buying the chip from him, wouldn't that be just a bit tacky? Steve is quite generous with his (free) Rennlist help, but I'm sure that doesn't pay his rent. Just a thought
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#8
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It really doesn't matter where I buy the chip as long as it's a quality product and I can get it in a reasonable amount of time. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#9
Passed On
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[quote]it turned over 3 or 4 times before it would start????? <hr></blockquote>
What do you mean "turned over 3 or 4 times?" If the starter cranked at normal speed (didn't reduce speed during this time), it's prob. fine. What might have happened is that in that 3-4 week time the fuel lines dried out, so a couple of cranks were needed to refill them. The second restart, you don't say how long it was parked. If it was a short time, might be vapor lock from poor gas.
Burn up your present tank of gas, get a big can of Techron, dump it in the tank, fill it with Sunoco 94, then give it an "Italian tune up" for an hour or so.
RE chip: what makes you think this will make any difference other than in your mind???
What do you mean "turned over 3 or 4 times?" If the starter cranked at normal speed (didn't reduce speed during this time), it's prob. fine. What might have happened is that in that 3-4 week time the fuel lines dried out, so a couple of cranks were needed to refill them. The second restart, you don't say how long it was parked. If it was a short time, might be vapor lock from poor gas.
Burn up your present tank of gas, get a big can of Techron, dump it in the tank, fill it with Sunoco 94, then give it an "Italian tune up" for an hour or so.
RE chip: what makes you think this will make any difference other than in your mind???
#10
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The car sat for about 2 weeks and it sounded fine when being cranked but just didn't turn over. I drove it for about an hour and parked it for a couple of hours. When I went to start it the same thing happened. Drove it home parked it tried it the following day started fine, next day tried to start it and it would not turn over until the 3rd or 4th time.
As far as the chip goes, I am hoping to get a VERY minor increase in hp and a higher rev limit. The 95 is right 270 hp I believe, if I can pull another 5-10 out why not do it??? <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
As far as the chip goes, I am hoping to get a VERY minor increase in hp and a higher rev limit. The 95 is right 270 hp I believe, if I can pull another 5-10 out why not do it??? <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
#11
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From your description the battery is fine. Might try the fuel system cleanup.
I'm not sure, but there have been problems with the starter relay. What I can't remember are the symptoms; does it totally kill the starter or does it kill ignition power and prevents the engine from firing? Archive search might help.
RE chip:
a) 5-10 HP you'll prob. never notice
b) add'l higher RPM exponentially increases load/duty on hydraulic valve lifters
c) lots better things to spend a couple of hundred $$$ on (a driving school? 2 rear tires? 6 months insurance?)
In any case, good luck.
I'm not sure, but there have been problems with the starter relay. What I can't remember are the symptoms; does it totally kill the starter or does it kill ignition power and prevents the engine from firing? Archive search might help.
RE chip:
a) 5-10 HP you'll prob. never notice
b) add'l higher RPM exponentially increases load/duty on hydraulic valve lifters
c) lots better things to spend a couple of hundred $$$ on (a driving school? 2 rear tires? 6 months insurance?)
In any case, good luck.
#12
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[quote]Originally posted by Dan 96C2 St.Louis:
<strong>I'm sure Steve would know, but if GTR 993 isn't buying the chip from him, wouldn't that be just a bit tacky? Steve is quite generous with his (free) Rennlist help, but I'm sure that doesn't pay his rent. Just a thought
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Maybe if he talks with Steve he'll see the light and buy his chip!
<strong>I'm sure Steve would know, but if GTR 993 isn't buying the chip from him, wouldn't that be just a bit tacky? Steve is quite generous with his (free) Rennlist help, but I'm sure that doesn't pay his rent. Just a thought
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Maybe if he talks with Steve he'll see the light and buy his chip!
#13
RL Technical Advisor
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[quote]Originally posted by GTR 993:
<strong>It really doesn't matter where I buy the chip as long as it's a quality product and I can get it in a reasonable amount of time. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
GTR:
LOL,....It sure should matter.
The chip programmer must take into account what octane fuel you have in your area (its NOT all the same) and what modifications you have done to your engine. A responsible chip maker will not raise the rev limiter unless you have upgraded some of the internals to suit.
The information that the chip maker needs are the Bosch numbers that you listed above. Thats the significant data!
Ray,......please kind Sir, ...Do not lump ALL software makers together, any more than you would regard people the same way,.......
I will tell you that a GOOD chip is quite noticeable and well worth the money if its programmed correctly. Perhaps you had some bad experiences with several of these, but they are NOT all the same, regardless.
Some of these actually work quite well.
There is no question that getting the most seat time and driver training should be top priority without exception but beyond that, a properly done chip is the only thing that improves performance and is still emissions and OBDI/OBDII compliant. Its still the best bang-for-the-buck, IMHO.
<strong>It really doesn't matter where I buy the chip as long as it's a quality product and I can get it in a reasonable amount of time. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
GTR:
LOL,....It sure should matter.
The chip programmer must take into account what octane fuel you have in your area (its NOT all the same) and what modifications you have done to your engine. A responsible chip maker will not raise the rev limiter unless you have upgraded some of the internals to suit.
The information that the chip maker needs are the Bosch numbers that you listed above. Thats the significant data!
Ray,......please kind Sir, ...Do not lump ALL software makers together, any more than you would regard people the same way,.......
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Some of these actually work quite well.
There is no question that getting the most seat time and driver training should be top priority without exception but beyond that, a properly done chip is the only thing that improves performance and is still emissions and OBDI/OBDII compliant. Its still the best bang-for-the-buck, IMHO.