Hoping someone can give some idea on what the problem might be for before I start tinkering and make it worse. Can't shift into reverse and the shift lever doesn't have any "spring gate" to get through before pushing the shifter up to reverse- the shifter moves all the way to the left without resistant, then pushing it up to where reverse would normally be puts it in first gear. Moving the shifter all the way to the left, then up where reverse should be. This happened just as I was backing into the garage, but so far first and second seem to work. Searched the forum without a whole lot of luck aside from finding that there are a few plastic parts in the shift linkage that can break.
Hoping that this is something easily fixable in the garage and, if not, get it to the shop while it's still drivable. Any thoughts?

 

Hi Jimbo,
I would rule out worn shift linkage issues before going any further.
With the car off the ground, the underbody covers removed, one can see what is going on with the linkage.
Here is a listing of the linkage rebuild soft parts:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...-key-part.html
Andy

 

Thanks, Andy. Haven't messed with the linkage before but, if it needs to be serviced from underneath, will have the shop get it on a lift. Was planning on having them take care of a couple items, anyway, so this will make the visit happen a little sooner.

 

I had similar issues... started with reverse, then 1st gear, then no gears. Ended up being the shifter linkage, the bearing sleeves to the specific (964 424 028 00, part 26 on the diagram). One was completely disintegrated, while the other was not too far behind. Pretty inexpensive and easy to replace once under the car, just make sure to replace both regardless

 

Hey Jimbo,

Chances are great it is your shift linkage: totally normal breakage given the years now. The diagram above illustrates several key bushings that are nylon which, not surprisingly, have gotten brittle with age and have failed. Fwiw, it's an easy fix with the car on 4 jackstands if you are willing ...and lots written on this very subject right here on RL. But if you want the shop to do it, it's not hard ...just be wary of what they may try to "sell you" on is all.

Edward

 

Thanks, all. Looks like, from the diagram in Sagres76's post #4, replacing parts #2, 3, 4 and 26 might solve the problem(?). Just to confirm, those parts aren't readily replaceable from above?

The older I get, the less excited I become about getting under a car on jackstands. I can take the diagram to the shop and show them what might need replacement.

My initial search was keyword "reverse", but will do a search on "shift linkage" to see what more I can learn.

EDIT: Saw Andy's comprehensive list of plastic linkage parts. If some of those are broken, will probably replace all.

 

Your parts 2, 3, and 4 are likely fine, as is that whole "clamshell" assembly. It is 26 (two of them iirc) and the "cup" bushing (cut off from view but it's at the bottom of the diagram) that need replacement. Try lifting up on your gearshift ****: I bet you can because yours is busted ...it should have no vertical travel whatsoever. When it's all apart, the failed bushes are readily evident, but even if not, absolutely replace #26 (if not already crumbling in hand at disassembly).

I get what you're saying about getting underneath the car. If you trust your mechanic, it's a straight-forward job that itself should not be pricey as the bushings are cheap and time involved is not much.


Edward

 

^^^Tried gently lifting the shifter **** and it comes up easily, so that seems to confirm a diagnosis of a linkage issue rather than a trans issue. (whew!) Thanks for that tip. The next challenge will be to drive it to the shop. HopefulIy, it'll get it into 2nd gear, then leave it there for the trip. I'm inclined to replace all the plastic parts on Andy's list so as to leave nothing to chance.

 

Yup, then part 26 (the oval bushings) are most assuredly shot! If you can slip the car into gear without starting the car, then you'll be fine getting it to the shop ...so long as you don't have to back it up, lol! I laugh because I had to enlist two of my neighbors to help me push the car when I lost reverse turning around in my cul de sac literally some 70' from my garage, but it was up a slight incline so I was absolutely in need, hahaha!

Andy's list is solid ...but IMO the four "insert" parts listed are inside the clamshell assembly meaning more to take apart and work on but may not be necessary if it feels solid and smooth. Optional: if you want to upgrade to FD Motorsports' "Golden Rod" shift rod, which is now called their "Black Series" and is like the "RS" shift rod in that it eliminates the square rubber washer and instead is a smooth/durable u-joint. This results not only in a more positive feel at gear changes, but that excellent feel will not degrade as there is no rubber to get old/weak over time. Not required, but IMO a good "while yer in there" upgrade that is a tangible benefit with zero drawbacks. Fwiw, anyway.

Edward

 

I recently did the short shift kit and golden rod install and my bushings (item 26) were both shot. There may be other sources, but here’s a link to the ones I used and they fit perfectly. Good luck with the repair.

https://fdmotorsports.net/product/96...shings-pair-2/

 

Was thinking about doing the Golden Rod. Supposedly, eliminating the square rubber piece might result in additional trans wear if shifting more aggressively. I have a bad habit of pushing/pulling the shift lever a little ahead of the clutch being completely disengaged, so am wondering if the Golden Rod would make the linkage significantly less forgiving. Three hundred bucks for a meaningful shifting upgrade is very tempting, though. Seven hundred more for the short shift might be a bridge too far for a lightly driven street car, especially if the Golden Rod gets me most of the way to shifting nirvana. Coming from a 914 tail shifter, the stock 993 linkage is already comparatively like a Swiss watch!

I see FD also has a pair of item #26 for $40, which seems like a good deal when added to a Golden Rod order.

EDIT: Looking at pricing, those four plastic bushings in the "clamshell" (item #4) are really $65 EACH?? Woah. Might have to re-think replacing those if not necessary.

 

Hey Jimbo,

Just my opinion, mind you, so here goes. Everything has mechanical/engineering compromises ...this we all know, right? Stiff over flexible, fast vs reliable, the list is endless. But with FD's rod (now a Black "goldenrod" lol) there is nothing I can see, feel, or discern that offers a negative. That said, what is the positive to FD's rod (which really is a take on the RS solution without spending the RS tax!): more direct transfer of your movement at the shift ball to the very end of the rod that will actuate shifts at the trans; u-joint vs flexy rubber pad. I'll take the former, easily. But only because there is no added noise, vibration, or harshness. For example, some love the RS engine and trans mounts for their stiffness ...I won't do either because these will add NVH on my street-driven car (and thus stuck with fresh OE mounts). Compromise. Sure it's a "little" they say, but I don't want whatever NVH such would add. So that's my compromise. Lightened flywheel, monoball suspension joints, 19" wheels, the list of "mods" is endless, but likewise replete with the compromises that inherently baked in.

A short shift kit --any kit-- is a physical change in leverage points: not a free lunch. Shorter travel comes with the price of effort/feel. Some love it. I don't, personally. Even in my track SC I "tightened up" the shift linkage with various tidbits but stopped short of the SS kit because I didn't want that tradeoff. I worked on the suspension a bunch, but left the engine/trans wholly stock. Stayed with 16" wheels but with R-compounds. Compromise is choosing the "cost" you're willing to pay.

Back to the FD rod: I feel no additional NVH that I can discern whatsoever. That said, I'd rethink your self-diagnosed habit of shifting: you don't want to add any pressure to the shift linkage that isn't a deliberate act of shifting; so to be blunt, that's on you, sir. May I suggest, however, that you clean up that habit so that you can enjoy the fruits that the FD rod brings to shifting. And on the tangible benefits, I don't want to ever overstate the improvement. All brand new stock factory linkage bits will "probably" yield the same feel as the FD rod ...because it's all fresh. But these bits will degrade, particularly that rubber washer that the rod eliminates. So what you gain is not only a crisper feel, but a tactile improvement that won't degrade like rubber will. Until another plastic "cup" bushing breaks, that is, but heck mine lasted 193k miles, hahaha!

Sorry for the long-winded response ...coffee and free time this morning will do that. Hope that gives ya a few things to think about.

Edward

 

I think I had a very similar issue to this last fall. Couldn’t get my car into reverse and no real tension/spring action when going side to side. I also assumed it was the plastic parts. Got it up on a friend’s lift and it turned out that the bolt connecting my golden rod to the input shaft of the transmission had backed out enough so that when the shifter was moving left or right it wasn’t twisting the input shaft on the transmission to engage reverse. Tightened it up with a little blue loctite and it has worked fine ever since.

matt