brake fluid crud?
I had a gear oil change planned, will bleed the clutch slave cylinder at the same time. fingers crossed it goes well. Foxman's thread helped me with the brake bleed, as I was aware of the two separate chambers in the reservoir, each with differing drain tube heights!
With the C2, bleeding the brakes is easy because it is unnecessary to actuate the ABS valves to fully bleed the system, as is required on the C4 and Turbo.
I start with 2 liters of fresh brake fluid.
Bleeding the clutch may require a lift to get under the car to the slave bleeder screw. For this reason, I let a local shop bleed the clutch.
A power bleeder with the cap that screws on the reservoir makes bleeding the brakes a one-man job.
--I use a syringe to draw down the old fluid from the reservoir and top it off with new fluid.
--I start with the most distant caliper on US-delivered cars: the passenger-side rear caliper.
--I attach the power bleeder and add the remaining fresh fluid to it. In my case, the old and new fluids are the same color, so it is not clear when the old fluid is fully bled out.
For this reason, when I bleed the most distant calipers (rears), I waste some of the fresh fluid to ensure the refresh is complete.
This is why I start by having two liters of fresh fluid on hand. I then do each of the other calipers.
--On each caliper, I first bleed the inner caliper bleeder port, then the outer. If the system has been opened and air introduced, I tap the caliper as I bleed it to release any air
bubbles that may have clung to the interior of the caliper casting.
--When bleeding, make sure the power bleeder is under pressure whenever opening a bleeder screw to avoid drawing air in through the screw. Even a small amount of air can make
the brake pedal feel spongy.
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; Dec 25, 2025 at 06:47 PM.
Thanks for all the info. I have the brake bleed process down pretty well, use it regularly on my macan and 991.2. I do prefer the "dry method" with a motive pressure bleeder. Easier cleanup, but one must be careful about keeping the mc topped up. The 993 flush went well once i cleared the plugged line and for this case, given all the debris, i did indeed use a full 2 liters of fluid!
test drive today, the car is running great, brakes feel very direct. next up, gear oil change and slave cylinder flush. fluids arriving soon.
test drive today, the car is running great, brakes feel very direct. next up, gear oil change and slave cylinder flush. fluids arriving soon.
Thanks for all the info. I have the brake bleed process down pretty well, use it regularly on my macan and 991.2. I do prefer the "dry method" with a motive pressure bleeder. Easier cleanup, but one must be careful about keeping the mc topped up. The 993 flush went well once i cleared the plugged line and for this case, given all the debris, i did indeed use a full 2 liters of fluid!
test drive today, the car is running great, brakes feel very direct. next up, gear oil change and slave cylinder flush. fluids arriving soon.
test drive today, the car is running great, brakes feel very direct. next up, gear oil change and slave cylinder flush. fluids arriving soon.
When you say too soft for racing, what do you mean? Not compressing the pressure plate quick/far enought, causing gear grinding or something else??
Thanks for any information.
I didn't understand that either. Like a heavy foot and clutch is better for racing? Seems counterintuitive.
Been running the MPL for years now. Not going back to stock. No way. Feels perfect.
Been running the MPL for years now. Not going back to stock. No way. Feels perfect.
I bought a MPL slave eariler this year, but haven't gotten around to installing it yet. This is the first complaint I've heard also.
When you say too soft for racing, what do you mean? Not compressing the pressure plate quick/far enought, causing gear grinding or something else??
Thanks for any information.
When you say too soft for racing, what do you mean? Not compressing the pressure plate quick/far enought, causing gear grinding or something else??
Thanks for any information.
The MPL largely does what it’s supposed to do. It reduces pedal force. Good for street driving, perhaps. But for me it also seemed to introduce a vagueness in the clutch friction point. Bad. I ran with it for two years, and it felt vague. My new Indy, who tracks a 964 cup car, first thought the vagueness was caused by a bad master cylinder. There was no grinding, the transmission was just re-geared. but shifting into first gear required a fully depressed clutch. I replaced the aging master cylinder, but the issue remained. I finally replaced the MPL and went back to the stock slave, and all was right. The shifts feel crisper, more on/off, and less vague.
Many folks seem to gravitate to MPL for the 30% lighter clutch pedal for driving on the street, particularly in the city. But for me, I prefer a stiffer clutch with quicker engagement.
So there’s nothing inherently wrong with the MPL clutch slave. But it’s not for me, and I don’t think it’s well suited for the track.
There are some aftermarket products for our cars that I feel are better suited for the street than the track. The Numeric shifter is another example, in my opinion, and this may spark another debate. I was one of the first buyers, and ran with a Numeric for several years. I just sold my Numeric shifter, and would not advise running with a Numeric on the track. The CAE Ultra Shifter is the way to go.
Originally Posted by Foxman
Maybe I’m old school, but yes generally speaking a stiff clutch is better for racing. Less slip, and rapid and strong engagement.





