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Old 07-29-2024, 09:24 PM
  #46  
Todynot
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When programming the new fob, is it necessary to do anything with the existing fob?
Old 07-30-2024, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Todynot
When programming the new fob, is it necessary to do anything with the existing fob?
If you're asking about the F1, you program it like any OEM fob using the PIN code and in-car programming procedure. When you add a fob this way (any fob), the immobilizer gets erased, so you need to "re-pair" the existing fob by including it in the programming process with the new one or it will no longer be recognized. This is standard procedure.

Adding an F1 EZ is different. It's designed for those who don't have their PIN code, can't do the in-car procedure, or don't want to deal with the hassle of sending the immobilizer out to be programmed. Simply send us any currently paired fob, and we'll make a clone that works right out of the box – no PIN code, no programming, no immobilizer hassles. The cloning is non-invasive and no changes are made to the existing fob.

I hope that answers your question. If not, let me know what I missed.

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Old 07-30-2024, 12:47 PM
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FOB cloning by some sources have resulted in the cloned FOB becoming out sequence of the new FOB over time with use,
requiring multiple depressions of the cloned FOB to "catch-up". The cloned FOB becomes out of sync with immobilizer.
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Last edited by systemsc; 07-30-2024 at 01:56 PM.
Old 07-30-2024, 01:50 PM
  #49  
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I had to get the codes from dealer, which required proof of ownership. They obliged, but reluctantly it seemed. Anyway, the print-out they provided includes “Locking/alarm system code” and “immobilizer code” and they are different. Which is used for fob programming?
Old 07-30-2024, 02:04 PM
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Unless they got them swapped, the one labeled "immobilizer code" is the one you need for programming. You can tell pretty easily if it's the right code - do all the steps in the procedure down to the point just before you press the fob button you want to program. If the immo warning light in the clock doesn't flash at that step, start over - you may have entered the correct code incorrectly. (it's easy to do). If it still doesn't work, you may have issues with the ignition lock assembly. Read Here about a work-around for that. If you still can't get through it, the F1 EZ is worth considering.

Last edited by jay@EZimmoblock.com; 07-30-2024 at 02:06 PM.
Old 07-30-2024, 02:12 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Todynot
I had to get the codes from dealer, which required proof of ownership. They obliged, but reluctantly it seemed. Anyway, the print-out they provided includes “Locking/alarm system code” and “immobilizer code” and they are different. Which is used for fob programming?
Remember, if you use the wrong four digit code, the immobilizer one or another, the immobilizer will prevent another entry after a time limit, i.e. hours.
Old 07-30-2024, 02:29 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by systemsc
Remember, if you use the wrong four digit code, the immobilizer one or another, the immobilizer will prevent another entry after a time limit, i.e. hours.
Not true. If one attempt fails, you can try again immediately. I do it all the time.
Old 07-30-2024, 02:45 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by jay@EZimmoblock.com
Not true. If one attempt fails, you can try againimmediately. I do it all the time.
Not my or Porsche dealers' experience with many immobilizers over the last 5 years. It's there to prevent a brute force code attack.

Last edited by systemsc; 07-30-2024 at 02:47 PM.
Old 07-30-2024, 08:16 PM
  #54  
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Just wanted to leave some (real-world) feedback on this fob here. Got the fob from Jay the other day. It is unbranded but otherwise appears almost identical to the standard Porsche item. It seems to weigh a little less too. Paired to my 993, the range seems to be approximately 15 feet or so, maybe a little more if I position the fob at hip level. Overall, this product is the real deal, and gets my recommendation for almost any 993 owner. I can only imagine the range if my capacitors weren't surely aged and on their way out.
Old 07-31-2024, 12:06 PM
  #55  
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Good feedback, Ben. Thanks.
Just a heads-up: before pairing that same F1 EZ to your fob, I paired it to mine to test range on my 993 (which has had the capacitor update): 55 ft opposite the driver's door. So what you are seeing is clearly due to the immobilizer, not the fob. A range of 15 ft is acceptable and probably doesn't justify removing and updating the immobilizer. But keep an eye on it. If the range decreases significantly, an immobilizer tune-up might be beneficial.

Old 07-31-2024, 10:23 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by jay@EZimmoblock.com
Good feedback, Ben. Thanks.
Just a heads-up: before pairing that same F1 EZ to your fob, I paired it to mine to test range on my 993 (which has had the capacitor update): 55 ft opposite the driver's door. So what you are seeing is clearly due to the immobilizer, not the fob. A range of 15 ft is acceptable and probably doesn't justify removing and updating the immobilizer. But keep an eye on it. If the range decreases significantly, an immobilizer tune-up might be beneficial.
I'm very happy with the increased performance, Jay!
Old 07-31-2024, 11:29 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by systemsc
Not my or Porsche dealers' experience with many immobilizers over the last 5 years. It's there to prevent a brute force code attack.
My experience is that I have had to make as many as six attempts at toggling in the codes before the system responds appropriately and the fobs can be mated to the car.
I attribute this to human error and/or a noisy ignition or buzzer switch. I have never experienced having to wait after multiple attempts. Nore have I seen this described in the factory documents.
My experience was on my 1996 and a friend's 1997 993.
No waiting involved.
Andy

Last edited by pp000830; 07-31-2024 at 11:40 PM.
Old 07-31-2024, 11:38 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by systemsc
FOB cloning by some sources have resulted in the cloned FOB becoming out sequence of the new FOB over time with use,
requiring multiple depressions of the cloned FOB to "catch-up". The cloned FOB becomes out of sync with immobilizer.
Interesting,
Does this would suggest that the fobs communicate bidirectionally updating information in the fob with each use? I am not sure this is the case with the simple system in the 993.
I have not seen this feature described in any factory document with the 993. Newer cars, I understand, have this feature to deter theft from cloning.
Andy

Last edited by pp000830; 07-31-2024 at 11:41 PM.
Old 08-01-2024, 10:35 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by pp000830
My experience is that I have had to make as many as six attempts at toggling in the codes before the system responds appropriately and the fobs can be mated to the car.
I attribute this to human error and/or a noisy ignition or buzzer switch. I have never experienced having to wait after multiple attempts. Nore have I seen this described in the factory documents.
My experience was on my 1996 and a friend's 1997 993.
No waiting involved.
Andy
At some point there might be a timed lockout but I've never encountered it. I tried to find it once by intentionally entered the wrong PIN code 10 times, then entering the correct code. Fobs programmed fine - no wait necessary. Just another myth floating around.
Old 08-01-2024, 12:13 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by pp000830
Interesting,
Does this would suggest that the fobs communicate bidirectionally updating information in the fob with each use? I am not sure this is the case with the simple system in the 993.
I have not seen this feature described in any factory document with the 993. Newer cars, I understand, have this feature to deter theft from cloning.
Andy
The key point is that the immobilizer "rolls" each FOB's code, i.e. to a new code, after receiving each FOB's transmission, as does each FOB. As a result, they remain in sync.
With the original cloned FOB and its non-use, it becomes out of sync with the immobilizer. With regard to a "factory document", no OEM is ever going to fully document every aspect of a system design.


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