Benefits of Light Weight Flywheel
06-09-2004, 02:01 PM
#1
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Benefits of Light Weight Flywheel
Was told today about my rear main seal leak. So the engine is coming out.
I have read a lot of posts on the light weight flywheel and really appreciated John D.'s recent photos and description of his new one.
My question is a simple (and probably redundant) one:
What is/are the BENEFIT(s) of the light weight flywheel?
I've read about the drawbacks but really don't know what the benefit is to the everyday driver (I also drive 5-7 days a year at the track.)
Thanks is advance for your feedback.
I have read a lot of posts on the light weight flywheel and really appreciated John D.'s recent photos and description of his new one.
My question is a simple (and probably redundant) one:
What is/are the BENEFIT(s) of the light weight flywheel?
I've read about the drawbacks but really don't know what the benefit is to the everyday driver (I also drive 5-7 days a year at the track.)
Thanks is advance for your feedback.
06-09-2004, 02:12 PM
#2
RL Technical Advisor
Howie:
The benefits are:
1) Quicker engine (throttle) response.
2) Improved durability. The OEM dual-mass ones are not bulletproof.
You will like it and a well-made chip makes the whole experience even better.
The benefits are:
1) Quicker engine (throttle) response.
2) Improved durability. The OEM dual-mass ones are not bulletproof.
You will like it and a well-made chip makes the whole experience even better.
06-09-2004, 02:25 PM
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You do hear a bit more noise when you are stopped but once you get going the noise goes away. The whole reason behind the dual-mass flywheel was to eliminate the noise. I love the change in my car since I had the light weight flywheel installed and highly recommend it.
06-09-2004, 03:42 PM
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I recently had Viperbobs LWF and RS clutch installed. As Steve previously explained the pickup is significantly improved. I do not hear any extra gear noise, but I do have to change my driving style a little to avoid stalling. You could adjust the ISV but I chose to change my driving style - no big issue.
BTW, the engine doesnot have to come out for this little "operation".
regs frm Germany
BTW, the engine doesnot have to come out for this little "operation".
regs frm Germany
06-09-2004, 04:38 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I've heard/read about the stalling and noise.
John,
I would probably do the clutch too since the engine will be out for the replacement of the RMS.
John,
I would probably do the clutch too since the engine will be out for the replacement of the RMS.
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06-09-2004, 06:33 PM
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Just got off the phone with Andial about their mid-weight flywheel. I almost fell out of my chair when he told me it was $411 MORE than the LWF. I think I may have to just go with the LWF.
06-09-2004, 06:38 PM
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Mine took about a day to get used to and it's a huge improvement over the DM. The motor revs like a stroker motor now 
There is a bit of gear slop that can be heard at idle and at low revs in 1st and 2nd gear, but nothing to complain about - I like the sound. Plus, as mentioned above, it is a much stronger setup then the DM.
There is a bit of gear slop that can be heard at idle and at low revs in 1st and 2nd gear, but nothing to complain about - I like the sound. Plus, as mentioned above, it is a much stronger setup then the DM.
06-09-2004, 07:00 PM
#10
RL Technical Advisor
Rick Lee:
IMHO, the Andial version of the LWF kit is unnecessary for the 96-98 OBD-II 993's. Its only an option for the '95 OBD-I cars that tend to stall more than the later ones do.
OBD-II 993's handle the lightweight flywheel with aplomb,....
IMHO, the Andial version of the LWF kit is unnecessary for the 96-98 OBD-II 993's. Its only an option for the '95 OBD-I cars that tend to stall more than the later ones do.
OBD-II 993's handle the lightweight flywheel with aplomb,....
06-09-2004, 07:04 PM
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Steve:
How big of a stalling issue is it for 95 OBD-I cars though? If used in stop-and-go traffic with any regularity, would stepping up to the Andial unit make sense? Two Left Feet above seems to have gotten the hang of it in a 95 cab. Have your customers with 95's had a similarly easy adjustment to the new setup?
How big of a stalling issue is it for 95 OBD-I cars though? If used in stop-and-go traffic with any regularity, would stepping up to the Andial unit make sense? Two Left Feet above seems to have gotten the hang of it in a 95 cab. Have your customers with 95's had a similarly easy adjustment to the new setup?
06-09-2004, 07:35 PM
#14
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Father of 3:
Everyone has their own take with the LWF on the '95 993's. Its a matter of opinion,...
Here are some facts;
Some cars stall worse than others
Some people adapt better than others
That said, the stalling can really be minimized with a good chip and adjusting the Idle Stabilizer valve. This device must be modified for adjustability and its a trial & error process to get it right, but IMHO, its really worth the efforts.
I tell all of my clients with these that some different driving techniques must be employed to eliminate the chance of stalling. Its a matter of learning some new habits. When approaching a stop sight or signal, do not disengage the clutch until the RPM drops to 1000 RPM. Let the car slow the engine down instead of pushing in the clutch at 2000 RPM as you approach the light or stop sign.
This makes a big difference since the ISV can better handle the quick RPM excursion from 1200-1000 to idle instead of 2000 RPM to idle.
Everyone has their own take with the LWF on the '95 993's. Its a matter of opinion,...
Here are some facts;
Some cars stall worse than others
Some people adapt better than others
That said, the stalling can really be minimized with a good chip and adjusting the Idle Stabilizer valve. This device must be modified for adjustability and its a trial & error process to get it right, but IMHO, its really worth the efforts.
I tell all of my clients with these that some different driving techniques must be employed to eliminate the chance of stalling. Its a matter of learning some new habits. When approaching a stop sight or signal, do not disengage the clutch until the RPM drops to 1000 RPM. Let the car slow the engine down instead of pushing in the clutch at 2000 RPM as you approach the light or stop sign.
This makes a big difference since the ISV can better handle the quick RPM excursion from 1200-1000 to idle instead of 2000 RPM to idle.