Lifter Repair 101....
#46
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Originally posted by OldGuy
John the Transporter just showed up and I aint got the dang car yet
so I had to send it back!!
John the Transporter just showed up and I aint got the dang car yet
so I had to send it back!!
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John, great write up! the engine compartment looks better then mine so I'll be calling you soon for some tips before my next "Concoursse". We can't wait to find out how your 993 runs when the car is back together.
#48
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Originally posted by LAURIER
John, great write up! the engine compartment looks better then mine so I'll be calling you soon for some tips before my next "Concoursse". We can't wait to find out how your 993 runs when the car is back together.
John, great write up! the engine compartment looks better then mine so I'll be calling you soon for some tips before my next "Concoursse". We can't wait to find out how your 993 runs when the car is back together.
I have to say - coming from you - I really appreciate that comment!! Late last night, I was getting the engine set to go back in, and a few drops of pentosin ("power steering fluid" for the rest of us ) dripped out of the bottle onto the rear engine shelf and I found mysely immediately scurring for a rag to wipe off those 2 drips??? Is that neurotic or WHAT??!!! (BTW: Wait 'till I take a picture of the cross-support members under the car!! They look GREAT all shiny!!)
Honestly - every time you post pictures of your work - I am simply amazed. It's just beautiful, as is your effort to get them to a "factory new" condition.
Anyway - when I have a few hours, the car should be back together and - fingers crossed - running like never before....
Again - my thanks!!
John
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Notes from the field:
Since Bozo didn't step up to handle this DIY, I've got to fill the gap.
It takes a fair bit of force w. a pair of pliers to persuade the old lifter to come out of the rocker arm.
My lifters are emerging with only a token amount of rubber seal still visible around the lifter.
The first rocker arm looked rather dark & grubby down in the bottom of the recess that the lifter fits into, so I swabbed it out as best I could with a paper towel. Still looked pretty black, but I figured that was just dirty oil that'd stained the metal (mechanics have a bad rep for not changing the small oil filter & all).
Inserted the new lifter into the rocker arm, soaked the rocker shaft with fresh motor oil, and bolted the assembly back onto the head. (I'd already been advised to leave the new lifters soaking overnight in some fresh motor oil, ensure they're well filled before going into the engine).
I'm cleaning the cavity in the second rocker arm, when I realized that dark stuff isn't dirty oil or stains on the metal; it's the seal off the old lifter! Bozo Jr. gets to go back & pull the first rocker back off, sure enough I'd left the old seal in the rocker & stacked the new lifter on top of it.
Bolt both the first & second rocker arms into place, start removing the third one. My hands are plenty oily now, and there's not much room to get to the first cylinder exhaust rocker. I'd cleverly removed the heat exchanger hose, and then... dropped the hex socket into the heat exchanger.
And my magnet's nowhere to be found.
And a review of the shop manual (for the fourth time) finally reveals the clever advice to oil the face of the rocker where it meets the cam lobe. Which I hadn't done. Sigh....
I'm going to bed.
Since Bozo didn't step up to handle this DIY, I've got to fill the gap.
It takes a fair bit of force w. a pair of pliers to persuade the old lifter to come out of the rocker arm.
My lifters are emerging with only a token amount of rubber seal still visible around the lifter.
The first rocker arm looked rather dark & grubby down in the bottom of the recess that the lifter fits into, so I swabbed it out as best I could with a paper towel. Still looked pretty black, but I figured that was just dirty oil that'd stained the metal (mechanics have a bad rep for not changing the small oil filter & all).
Inserted the new lifter into the rocker arm, soaked the rocker shaft with fresh motor oil, and bolted the assembly back onto the head. (I'd already been advised to leave the new lifters soaking overnight in some fresh motor oil, ensure they're well filled before going into the engine).
I'm cleaning the cavity in the second rocker arm, when I realized that dark stuff isn't dirty oil or stains on the metal; it's the seal off the old lifter! Bozo Jr. gets to go back & pull the first rocker back off, sure enough I'd left the old seal in the rocker & stacked the new lifter on top of it.
Bolt both the first & second rocker arms into place, start removing the third one. My hands are plenty oily now, and there's not much room to get to the first cylinder exhaust rocker. I'd cleverly removed the heat exchanger hose, and then... dropped the hex socket into the heat exchanger.
And my magnet's nowhere to be found.
And a review of the shop manual (for the fourth time) finally reveals the clever advice to oil the face of the rocker where it meets the cam lobe. Which I hadn't done. Sigh....
I'm going to bed.
Originally Posted by John D.
- Step 5 - Remove the rocker shaft. By unscrewing the two bolts - the rocker shaft will come loose. I started with Intake #4, as that lifter had collapsed and the rocker was easily detected as having way to much play...
Here is a picture of a new lifter - to compare what you will see in the next photos:
Pull the lifter from the end of the rocker. That this one is collapsed - the seal was vaporized and the top protrusion was battered into the lifter body:
And a comparision - old to new lifter. Notice the overall length difference....
- - -
- -
-
Step 6 - now is a great time to inspect the cam lobes, the rocker pad and the shaft bearing surfaces. Mine are in great shape..
I thought this was an interesting comparision shot. Top lifter - collapsed. Center - old lifter with a split seal. Bottom - new lifter...
- - -
- -
-
Step 7 - button it back up and torque the rocker shaft bolts to 10ft/lbs
- - -
- -
-
Step 8 - go to the next rocker (and you may want to turn the engine crank a bit if the next rocker is on cam..)..
Repeat for all 12......
Here is a picture of a new lifter - to compare what you will see in the next photos:
Pull the lifter from the end of the rocker. That this one is collapsed - the seal was vaporized and the top protrusion was battered into the lifter body:
And a comparision - old to new lifter. Notice the overall length difference....
- - -
- -
-
Step 6 - now is a great time to inspect the cam lobes, the rocker pad and the shaft bearing surfaces. Mine are in great shape..
I thought this was an interesting comparision shot. Top lifter - collapsed. Center - old lifter with a split seal. Bottom - new lifter...
- - -
- -
-
Step 7 - button it back up and torque the rocker shaft bolts to 10ft/lbs
- - -
- -
-
Step 8 - go to the next rocker (and you may want to turn the engine crank a bit if the next rocker is on cam..)..
Repeat for all 12......
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Would this be something that would be recommended to do once you hit X mileage? i.e at 100k?
Car I'm buying is at 92k and will need a clutch within 20k, so be dropping motor anyways at that point, trying to figure out all that I'd want to do once I get there.
What is the RS pulley upgrade?
Car I'm buying is at 92k and will need a clutch within 20k, so be dropping motor anyways at that point, trying to figure out all that I'd want to do once I get there.
What is the RS pulley upgrade?
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I've never heard it discussed as a scheduled maintenance item; most people leave them in until they start clacking loudly - ie, failing. If you're not really price-sensitive to the added parts cost, I'd say go for it.
Don't forget to replace the power steering belt while the engine's dropped - that's a big one.
Don't forget to replace the power steering belt while the engine's dropped - that's a big one.
#52
I did this over the wekend, and there are two extra steps that can be taken to insure there is no clacking on start up and improve the longevity of the engine.
First you need to blowout and clean the oiling holes in the rocker shaft and rockers themselves. See first and second picture. This would insure the oiling passages are free and clean.
Next, to prime the lifters, inject oil into the rocker oiling passage and partially fill up the rocker. See second picture.
Also fill the lifter itself with oil. Third picture.
---
anthony
First you need to blowout and clean the oiling holes in the rocker shaft and rockers themselves. See first and second picture. This would insure the oiling passages are free and clean.
Next, to prime the lifters, inject oil into the rocker oiling passage and partially fill up the rocker. See second picture.
Also fill the lifter itself with oil. Third picture.
---
anthony
#53
Three Wheelin'
Well for grins I took a lifter out to inspect. I currently have no lifter noise with 120k on the clock. I looked at the lifters and found broken orings. I guess its time to replace - I would assume the oring is there for a reason.
There were a few threads a year ago where people complain about replacement lifters being defective and/or noisy. there was some speculation that the OE lifters are actually made by someone else. (see https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=32964)
Bottom line, who has good lifters at a good price? Im going to check the usual suspects (Vertex, Pelican, Sunset) but seems Pelican has them for $30 each (far cry from $15 that was talked about in '06).
There were a few threads a year ago where people complain about replacement lifters being defective and/or noisy. there was some speculation that the OE lifters are actually made by someone else. (see https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=32964)
Bottom line, who has good lifters at a good price? Im going to check the usual suspects (Vertex, Pelican, Sunset) but seems Pelican has them for $30 each (far cry from $15 that was talked about in '06).
#54
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Oh, as a hint, crank the engine over with the DME pullout out until the oil pressure builds up before plugging the DME back in and firing it up. That will also help pressurize the lifters.
Oh, the article is also here (thanks to John D.)..
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...er_Replacement
Cheers,
Mike
Oh, the article is also here (thanks to John D.)..
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...er_Replacement
Cheers,
Mike
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You should rotate the engine as you work through the lifters in order to be removing the lifter without any pressure on it. So, yes if the lifter is not striking the valve, then remove it. When installing, make sure you torque the attachment bolts down correctly and continue onto the next valve.
It does not matter where TDC is since you are not timing the cams.
Cheers,
Mike
It does not matter where TDC is since you are not timing the cams.
Cheers,
Mike
#57
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Hello TJ;
Very important step as AXL911 indicated is to pressure blow clean the rocker arm oil passages.
I have found the receipt from euroeastparts a year ago and the lifters worked like a charm;
DATE ON EMAIL RECEIPT WAS NOVEMBER 2007
Products
------------------------------------------------------
13 x Valve Lifter (SP 99310514105) = $168.74
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $168.74
United Parcel Service (1 x 7.29lbs) (Ground): $14.51
Gift Certificates: -$10.00
Total: $173.25
the site looks down for some reason, but I still have the email address you can try. jstgermaine@euroeastparts.com
good luck
Very important step as AXL911 indicated is to pressure blow clean the rocker arm oil passages.
I have found the receipt from euroeastparts a year ago and the lifters worked like a charm;
DATE ON EMAIL RECEIPT WAS NOVEMBER 2007
Products
------------------------------------------------------
13 x Valve Lifter (SP 99310514105) = $168.74
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $168.74
United Parcel Service (1 x 7.29lbs) (Ground): $14.51
Gift Certificates: -$10.00
Total: $173.25
the site looks down for some reason, but I still have the email address you can try. jstgermaine@euroeastparts.com
good luck
Last edited by geolab; 11-24-2008 at 04:15 AM.
#58
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Has anyone done this w/ the engine in the car? I suspect exhaust side would be easy to do in the car if you don't mind laying on your back. My mechanic said he could do them w/o dropping the engine, but looking at it that seems llike a major challenge.
#60
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John, I know 15 years is a long time, but I only just came across your "lifter repair 101" thread. Unfortunately only the first photo is available with all the others reporting as "page not found" when you look in the printable format, and not showing at all in the normal view for the thread.
Do you still have the photos and could you make them available?
Regards,
Jan
Dorset UK
Do you still have the photos and could you make them available?
Regards,
Jan
Dorset UK