pchak

I took a look at my ECU, and couldn't find a joint that "looked broken". While it could have been a coinkydink, I reached under the dash while it was installed, and jiggled the unit, and my motors started engaging.

If someone out there that's done this already would like to tackle mine for a reasonable price, I'd be interested. I'm sure yout more adroit than I am with electronics, and hot tools.

thanks!

TheOtherEric

Bill- Just look for solder joints with a little ring (a crack) running aroung the periphery. If any look at all like that, then resolder them. I resoldered a bunch of joints that kind of had cracks, even though none looked obviously broken to my uneducated eyes. That was enough to get it to work again!

swmic

Bill, I sent you a PM.

Brave Heart

Shawn

Very useful insight - It seems a pretty widespread problem -- Thanks for keeping us "covered"

pchak

Eric,
I guess that I didn't do a good job of id'ing the cracks/rings (I'm looking for obvious breaks as in the great documentation provided). Since everything else (except the wiring harnesses) has been replaced, and my motors engage intermittently, it's got to be the problem.
thanks,

Edgy01

Guys,--here's what is going on. Over the years there has been a push for environmentally friendly printed wiring boards (PWBs) and electronic components. As a result, tin is used more and more,--and it doesn't have the resiliance that lead provides. As a result, in a high vibration environment you wind up with this sort of failure. More and more commercial components are being pushed to tin. (In the military and space world we still get to maintain lead because it's a little harder to fix a satellite in the driveway). For a further education (if you're interested) do a search on "tin whiskers." Over time tin components will ultimately short themselves out if the lead percentage is less than about 4%. (Which is extremely common today). A conformal coating makes no difference and sometimes can aggrivate the failure of cetain components. Be prepared to have to go back into this PWB again in the future.

Dan

pchak

Dan,
Always love finding out the reason behind things.
thanks!

Slow Guy

Search found this thread:
Well I'm having this problem now, top motors function but latch motors won't close (micro-switches test ok). I removed this control unit, took it apart and it's obvious this unit has been repaired before. My eyesight and soldering abilities aren't great so I decided to find a TV repair shop that would touch it up. Went to 3 shops, none did soldering, I guess they just replace the boards. I guess I'll try it myself, can't make it much worse.

Edit: Holy Crap! Pelican lists these for $556, Vertex too. I'll check w/ Sunset if I can't fix mine. Guess I'll try a little harder!

LAT

I paid my dealer for 1.5 hours for fixing that same problem but compared to the first shop I went to that wanted to replace everything but the top for over 1K I was gratefull
Possibly we should a site like p-car or send this infor to p-car so that many may benefit.

cabrio993

Bill,

I have done this to mine and it has been working great since. I am not soldering guru, but it really doesn't require much skill. Just be careful not to keep the iron too long in one spot and use low heat.

If you want, PM me and I can touch it up for you if you ship it to me.

Also, I have seen this module on ebay from time to time pop up and sold for $100 or so.

Slow Guy

I had some soldering training in the Navy so it's not the technique as much as looking at fine details for any period of time close-up that gives me problems (eyesight). Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it if I can't get it resolved. I may also check DC Automotive for one.

Other than the 2 front crossbar microswitches that have to be closed does the status of the other 2 microswitches impact operation of the latch motors? Per the schematics there's a "Micro Switch TDC" and "Micro Switch Conv. Top Opened". I believe "MS Conv. Top Opened" has to be closed but I'm not sure about the other.

CDILL

A friend of mine had some trouble with his top on his 95 cab where the top wouldnt go up.you may want to check with the dealer. some of these car have a recall on them for the top motor I beleive it is called the A502 campaign where the replace the top motor most dealers can look it up and tell you if your cars ned it or not. that was all that was wrong with his car and they fixed it for free.

Slow Guy

Thanks all, I'll be looking further into both the recall and the cold solder issue.

I think I may have 2 problems as the top would go down and up fine under power but the latch motors never attempt to engage, but they dis-engage fine. The micro switches are operating correctly via meter but just won't close. I suspect this is a controller problem.

The other problem I discovered is that the driver's side transmission doesn't turn, at least not when the top arm is disconnected and I'm eyeballing both transmissions. This MAY be a motor problem or could be a cable/drive gear problem. I'm tempted to just button it back up and see if this car is subject to the recall as I've only had it for 2 mos.

If I shouldn't have posted this in this thread I apologize, let me know and I'll remove it and start another thread.

Edit: 2nd time was a charm as far as touching up the solder joints, the top latch motors now latch and unlatch. As for the DS cable/trans it's not needed now that the top is manual. I will see if the recall is still open on this car. Thanks again.

Michaelcoe1

This is one of the best threads going...

I have finally gotten the Cabio control unit removed. Unfortunately, I cannot visually identify any cold solder joints or other issues. Can any provide advice on what specifically to look for? I was svery disapointed when i was unable to see an issue right off as this is a big cost savings if it is a solder issue.

Thank You!

Fred's 964

Thank you, swmic, I had a similar problem on my 964 and couldn't figure it out. I found your post and I think your fix did the trick. I found several cold solder joints at the pins for the harness connectors. It works great now. Thank you for sharing. Your pix made it easy, about two hours work. I took some under the dash pix if anyone isn't sure where the controller is, let me know and I'll post them.