Close-Ratio Gearbox & Lightweight Flywheel - Report
#16
Originally posted by Greg Fishman:
<STRONG>You can drive my car in a couple weeks and see the difference the close gears make.
Greg</STRONG>
<STRONG>You can drive my car in a couple weeks and see the difference the close gears make.
Greg</STRONG>
Greg,
All of a sudden my 'relatively inexpensive' clutch job turned into a major to do. I would like to think I can do these things, but am not sure at this point. I am set on the LW flywheel and rs clutch though - that should be good for something.
#17
E.J.
Although I'm not Viken, I can tell you that I bought mine from a U.K. wrecking yard for about $2500+shipping and import fees--probably cost me close to $3K to have it on my doorstep. Mine is a G50/21 (RWD) trans with approx 45K mi on it. Before I put it in, I will have it inspected to see if anything needs "freshening up". Look at Porsche and 911 World for ads, then start e-mailing your queries.
Viken: How many shop hours were you charged for the flywheel/clutch/trans swap?
Although I'm not Viken, I can tell you that I bought mine from a U.K. wrecking yard for about $2500+shipping and import fees--probably cost me close to $3K to have it on my doorstep. Mine is a G50/21 (RWD) trans with approx 45K mi on it. Before I put it in, I will have it inspected to see if anything needs "freshening up". Look at Porsche and 911 World for ads, then start e-mailing your queries.
Viken: How many shop hours were you charged for the flywheel/clutch/trans swap?
#19
Steve, I would definitely recommend having someone inspect the box before installing it. I went the same route you did and upon inspection discovered failed synchros in 1st and 2nd. Buyer beware, but it's worth it, especially on the non-vario cars.
#20
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From: So Cal
Originally posted by Steve in SLO:
<STRONG>Viken: How many shop hours were you charged for the flywheel/clutch/trans swap?</STRONG>
<STRONG>Viken: How many shop hours were you charged for the flywheel/clutch/trans swap?</STRONG>
If the car is a C2, the labor can be reduced by about 1.5 hours.
#21
Originally posted by NRK:
<STRONG>A related question: is the reason the LWF works best in 96+ solely because those cars have Varioram, or does it have something to do with the DME or other factors? I'm curious because I have a '95 car with Varioram and am considering the LWF conversion.</STRONG>
<STRONG>A related question: is the reason the LWF works best in 96+ solely because those cars have Varioram, or does it have something to do with the DME or other factors? I'm curious because I have a '95 car with Varioram and am considering the LWF conversion.</STRONG>
Now on the more interesting (at least for me) subject. How did you put varioram on '95 car? Was it just a "bolt on" swap? Can you provide as much info as possible? Thanks!
#22
Viken - as usual great informative post!
You are going to love it and 5th is actually very useful even at ThunderHill front straight. My passenger clocked speedo at 125MPH + yesterday at the end of the straight; ok with G50/20 4th gear (max 131MPH) but to much for 21 4th (max 118MPH).
Very interesting! This is about the same I've noticed with my LWF with extra weight.
P.S. From my experience there is one problem with shorter gears on the track, since engine is running on higher RPMs all the time, on a very hot day oil temperature is almost reaching the red zone (it is definitely past the forth mark)
Originally posted by Viken Bedrossian:
<STRONG>On the track and in tight turns, I always looked for the "right" gear between 2nd and 3rd the former being too short and the latter too tall. I expect the new shorter 3rd will be more adequate in such situations. The 1.024 fifth will also be very useful on long straights coming out of turns such as at Willow Springs.</STRONG>
<STRONG>On the track and in tight turns, I always looked for the "right" gear between 2nd and 3rd the former being too short and the latter too tall. I expect the new shorter 3rd will be more adequate in such situations. The 1.024 fifth will also be very useful on long straights coming out of turns such as at Willow Springs.</STRONG>
Originally posted by Viken Bedrossian:
<STRONG>I would estimate the speed at which the revs climb is about 20-25% quicker than before.</STRONG>
<STRONG>I would estimate the speed at which the revs climb is about 20-25% quicker than before.</STRONG>
P.S. From my experience there is one problem with shorter gears on the track, since engine is running on higher RPMs all the time, on a very hot day oil temperature is almost reaching the red zone (it is definitely past the forth mark)
#23
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From: So Cal
Originally posted by David T.:
<STRONG>P.S. From my experience there is one problem with shorter gears on the track, since engine is running on higher RPMs all the time, on a very hot day oil temperature is almost reaching the red zone (it is definitely past the forth mark)</STRONG>
<STRONG>P.S. From my experience there is one problem with shorter gears on the track, since engine is running on higher RPMs all the time, on a very hot day oil temperature is almost reaching the red zone (it is definitely past the forth mark)</STRONG>
#24
When I went to close ratio gears (RS-spec) I noticed the oil temps increase because you stay in a higher rev range. Temps would get close to the 4th mark but never over. I wasn't in the desert but the Midwest gets pretty hot in August 90 degrees with 90%+ humidity.
Greg
Greg
#25
Originally posted by Viken Bedrossian:
<STRONG>I would have thought the difference in higher rpm's is not that dramatic</STRONG>
<STRONG>I would have thought the difference in higher rpm's is not that dramatic</STRONG>
Originally posted by Viken Bedrossian:
<STRONG>... one might be using the next higher gear now that it's more useful. </STRONG>
<STRONG>... one might be using the next higher gear now that it's more useful. </STRONG>
Originally posted by Greg Fishman:
<STRONG>When I went to close ratio gears (RS-spec) I noticed the oil temps increase because you stay in a higher rev range. Temps would get close to the 4th mark but never over. I wasn't in the desert but the Midwest gets pretty hot in August 90 degrees with 90%+ humidity.
Greg</STRONG>
<STRONG>When I went to close ratio gears (RS-spec) I noticed the oil temps increase because you stay in a higher rev range. Temps would get close to the 4th mark but never over. I wasn't in the desert but the Midwest gets pretty hot in August 90 degrees with 90%+ humidity.
Greg</STRONG>
#26
David T asked how I ended up with a varioram on my '95 car. I purchased an RS Varioram (from Joe Fabiani, BTW) which was an OBD I unit and chip supposedly from a German car. It was essentially a bolt-on modification, as the engine remained in place during the install. With minor rerouting of a vacuum line, it was a pretty straightforward job according to my mechanic. A minor isssue is that the non-vario cars have shorter aircon hoses that need to reach over/around the varioram unit; they still do but it's a tighter fit.
#27
Originally posted by NRK:
<STRONG>...I purchased an RS Varioram (from Joe Fabiani, BTW) which was an OBD I unit and chip supposedly from a German car...</STRONG>
<STRONG>...I purchased an RS Varioram (from Joe Fabiani, BTW) which was an OBD I unit and chip supposedly from a German car...</STRONG>
#28
Viken (and others who have switched gear boxes), what did you do with your old gearbox?
Additionally, price-wise, if you include the cost of the ROW gearbox, shipping from Europe, cracking it open to inspect (assuming everything is in order), how does this compare to re-gearing an existing gearbox? I guess if you can sell your old gear box and recover some costs......
Also, installing the ROW gearbox, doesn't that mess up VIN# match-ups, in other words, your tranny doesn't match your car VIN#.
I'm very interested in this, because most likely I will be looking into this myself, and for now, I'm more inclined to re-gear my existing gearbox, rather than importing a ROW gearbox. I guess if price difference is extreme, I might consider the ROW gearbox.
Lastly (sorry for so many Q's..)why didn't you re-gear your existing box? Was is soley due to price?
Thank you in advanced!
Additionally, price-wise, if you include the cost of the ROW gearbox, shipping from Europe, cracking it open to inspect (assuming everything is in order), how does this compare to re-gearing an existing gearbox? I guess if you can sell your old gear box and recover some costs......
Also, installing the ROW gearbox, doesn't that mess up VIN# match-ups, in other words, your tranny doesn't match your car VIN#.
I'm very interested in this, because most likely I will be looking into this myself, and for now, I'm more inclined to re-gear my existing gearbox, rather than importing a ROW gearbox. I guess if price difference is extreme, I might consider the ROW gearbox.
Lastly (sorry for so many Q's..)why didn't you re-gear your existing box? Was is soley due to price?
Thank you in advanced!
#29
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From: So Cal
Originally posted by Oleg Steciw:
<STRONG>Viken (and others who have switched gear boxes), what did you do with your old gearbox?</STRONG>
<STRONG>Viken (and others who have switched gear boxes), what did you do with your old gearbox?</STRONG>
<STRONG>Additionally, price-wise, if you include the cost of the ROW gearbox, shipping from Europe, cracking it open to inspect (assuming everything is in order), how does this compare to re-gearing an existing gearbox? I guess if you can sell your old gear box and recover some costs......</STRONG>
<STRONG>Also, installing the ROW gearbox, doesn't that mess up VIN# match-ups, in other words, your tranny doesn't match your car VIN#.</STRONG>
<STRONG>Lastly (sorry for so many Q's..)why didn't you re-gear your existing box? Was is soley due to price?</STRONG>
#30
Viken, et al,
Any comments on use of a Twin Turbo rather than an RS pressure plate with the ltwt FW setup? I have spoken to several who recommend the TT PP for the additional clamping power. Are there significant weight issues or other +/-'s to think about?
TIA,
Steve
Any comments on use of a Twin Turbo rather than an RS pressure plate with the ltwt FW setup? I have spoken to several who recommend the TT PP for the additional clamping power. Are there significant weight issues or other +/-'s to think about?
TIA,
Steve