gbgastowers

Hi Andy. Can I adjust the collars all the way to the bottom (to lower car)? If I go that far will it need an alignment? I have standard USA height and I know it won’t make much of a difference without changing springs

Svensk_Cal

Good morning,

Went for the Koni Special Active + M033 - bought from Gert at Carnival: http://www.carnewal.com/products/993...manual-gearbox.

Really happy with the stance, the handling and compliance (important as roads around here are not really smooth...)

Svensk

StevenGilroy

I put the Koni Active shocks/struts and factory M033 springs a year ago. At first the springs were still tight when the car was up on the lift, but after 2500 miles and 14 months they have become slightly loose. This isn't an issue in most places but for those who have to go thru strict inspections it might be, I just make sure the springs are oriented to match the perch indentations. I measured and compared the heights from now to the original readings when I installed, the rear has dropped about 6mm and the front about 8mm measuring from the ground to the factory reference points, accuracy isn't precise. I recently replaced the front control arm bushings with Walrod without any change in height. I still like the ride height, and comfort, but do feel it's on the edge of developing bump steer. The rear is a fixed height so may raise the front a little, maybe 2-4mm or 1-1/2 + or - turns on the strut.

kkell3232

I too went with the Koni Special Active + M033 combo exclusively for street driving also after reviewing many many posts. I wanted a cost effective update for my higher mileage (113k) car. I installed them 3 months ago and the ride height ended up strangely low in the rear, like nearly RS ride height from the factory measuring points, such that the fronts had to be lowered as much as possible. The end result is visually nice but ride is not as compliant as I had hoped (still crashy) while there seems to be a bit more roll now because of the low ride height geometry. I know I could go with thicker sway bars but am giving it more time. I too have noticed a little front spring float when the car is lifted.

I had the front lower control arms refurbished with sport hardness rubber bushings (shout out to Andreas). I replaced the front top mounts only as they appeared pretty worn while the rears looked ok. It's easy to go down the rabbit hole.

I emailed Gert Carnewal about this result since I bought the package from him but he couldn't really offer any suggestions except that maybe my tires were not standard size (they are) or the ride height not measured correctly (it was).

I know there are many others who would say otherwise, but based on my own experience I would not pick the Koni Special Active + M033 combo again. Maybe the same springs but paired with something fully height adjustable (both front and rear) in case you also end up lower than expected. My 2 cents.

StevenGilroy

My latest measurements with locations as per the chart, the rear is now 126mm, down from the original 131mm, and the front is now 142mm down from the 149mm. New tires may have contributed to the change also, running Michelin Sport all season 255-40X17 rear 205-50X17, that according to the specs are slightly smaller in circumference, and I also put in the tire pump, tool kit spares and some other stuff in the frunk, which may have contributed to the front being lower. Variations in tire pressure, temperature and even gas levels can vary the heights by at least 1mm. I originally set the fronts using the same dimensions as the original struts, and it was a little high, and the car sat just about level when measured on the door sill. I wanted a slight rake to the front so lowered it a little getting about 0.75 degrees. Now it has a full 1+ degree rake. Once I raise the front about 2mm I will see how it is. I got my springs and Koni from Jason at Paragon, he found a set of the "Lilac" rears as my car is a Tiptronic with A/C. Cars with A/C and other heavy things can affect the heights,

PylotJB

Very Happy with my KW Variant 1. Installation can test your patience but well worth it!

pp000830

H gbgastowers,
The barrels seem to have a lot of threads available to lower the car with the springs you presently have. How low you should go is the ROW lowered height that is measured at the factory measuring points not by how low the threads let you lower things. The difference between USA and ROW lowered height is only 30mm so a small change on the barrels makes a big change to the visual stance of the car.
Here is a chart that displays the measuring points on your car:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qtxet2j9ej...nlist.pdf?dl=0

Once lowered the car should have an alignment done by someone who has the tools and know-how to align a 993 including adjustment of the kinematic rear toe.
Andy