Rob Wolford

Anybody out there have any pointers for an ambitious DIY novice on changing the stoneguards on a turbo? I understand it is fairly easy but that there are a few no-no's for first-timers to avoid. Many thanks in advance. Happy Memorial Day to all!

E. J. - 993 Alumni

Rob,

Here's the most recnt thread:

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002873&p=" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002 873&p=</a>

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002813&p=" target="_blank">Hers's</a>another one.

And <a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002548&p=" target="_blank">here's </a>another one.

I searched under stoneguards in the search feature on the top of the page.

Bottom line is that I think its pretty easy to do yourself and most others think its pretty hard. Maybe I just got lucky. On my car when I did it, it really made the car look better.

Good luck,

E. J.

Rob Wolford

Thanks for the help E.J. Youdaman!

Luis A.

Rob,

Your timing is exquisite. I just replaced both of my stoneguard covers on my narrowbody '96.

I heated the cover with a 500 W lamp and also with a hairblower. Lifted the bottom and started pulling. Initially it came off leaving no adhesive behind but then about a third into it it left a lot of adhesive behind. It is incredibly tough stuff and pulling very hard did not rip it or tear it. The second cover removal went similarly yet left a thicker layer of adhesive behind. COuld not tell if the layer of adhesive left behind was dependent on temperature or pulling angle.

Removing the adhesive was a real challenge . The thicker layer on the second cover made it a lengthy procedure. I used 3M adhesive/tar remover but it was not all that effective. The stuff behaves like rubber cement but a lot stickier and more viscous.

The best technique for me ended up being applying the 3M stuff (and later straight Xylene) with my hand and just 'massaging' it around the affected area and then rubbing real hard with a sacrificial MF towel trying to rub the stuff off. When the layer thinned out, the solvent did on OK job of removing the adhesive.

As Ray describes in his post, I used copious amounts of 30/70 alcohol/water in a sprayer bottle. Generously spray the whole area. I removed the backing for the first 3 or 4 inches of the top corner of the stoneguard and sprayed the sticky back. After I had that corner in postion I removed the rest of the paper backing and doused the sticky back the front and the fender again. Then I applied it as I squeeged it on removing air and water bubbles. I used a california water blade but a stiffer squeegee would be better.

I had to re-apply the whole piece a couple of times and did so without a problem but you *must* use a generous amounts of solution in order to be able to do this.

Wow This is a lot easier to do than to type.

Good luck with it. Go for it as it does improve the appearance substantially. <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" /> Mine had 28k miles and were quite pitted.

Frank 993 C4S

Just a follow-on to this thread about replacing the rear fender stone guards. I should have read certain parts of Luis A.'s post a bit more thouroughly. The removal of the old adhesive was a real PITA.

This is the technique that worked: a) heated the area with a hair dryer and b) used Turtle Wax tar and bug remover and 8 - 10 clean rags. Nothing else worked well. It took me about 1.5 hours to completly remove one side.

96P993

Rob as you can see the removal of the old guards is not a fun task..let me give you some pointers to putting them back on. I actually bought raw material and cut my out myself (which is a ton cheaper). This what you will need to complete the job: squirt bottle with 3 drops baby shampoo and the rest water, 2nd squirt bottle with the alcohol/ water solution, a rubber squeegee (not plastic), surgical gloves, wax remover, plenty of light but not heat, patience. Clean the surface with wax remover (I used dawn) and dry very well. Get surgical gloves very very wet( the gloves will help you not put finger prints into the adhesive). Spray the shampoo solution very liberally onto the car the shampoo solution will allow you more time to "play with the film while on your car. Once you are happy with the location of the film lift up a small piece of the bottom or top of the film and spray the alcohol solution onto the car, squeegee that piece until happy with the look..Move you way down with the alcohol solution and squeegee until you have done all of the film. The film will start to dry rather quickly so if you make a mistake fix it fast. The key is to not have any air bubbles when done. You will most likely have small drops of solution in there but they will evaporate in about a week...Now do the other side..Hope this helps

mike cap

Guys,

I found that NOT HEATING the surface of the 'stone-gard' material (factory or aftermarket) before pulling it off actually prevents a lot of the adhesive residual problem. Try it cold - the materal is harder to remove but it will leave behind almost no adhesive. Will cut the removal time in half.

Mike Cap
1997 C2
Arena Red

Tom W

If you pull it off when cold, you can pull some paint off with it (ask me how I know). In my case, a hairdryer was just barely adequate to get it warmed enough for removal. I used invinca-shield as a replacement and it looks much, much better than the factory guard.