I just finished the front brakes on my TT and found a couple
usefull tips I would like to pass on. All the experts know
this already (you wont catch ViperBob reading this thread)
but this is for people like me who are expanding their knowledge
base to do more and more DIYs to have fun and Oh yea save some
loot (for Mods!!)
Tip #1 To compress the spring that holds in the pads I found
the 12" Channel Lock pliers make this a snap!! I mean its the
perfect tool for this. perfect width and leverage. For removing and
replacing.
Tip #2 If you dont have the professional piston compressor,
use your old pads before taking them out with a big handle of
a hammer to compress the pistons. that way only the old pads
get marked up. youre gonna toss them anyway.
compress pistons, insert new pads and wal ahh!!
Tip #3 make sure you have a socket hex 10mm to loosen
the two 10mm hex bolts that hold the caliper in. Buy one
that fits your torque wrench, I have a 3/8" drive so I bought the
3/8" in drive hex bits.
This is an easy one I give it a 4 on the DIY scale of 1-10.
Dont forget to have brake parts cleaner and polish up those
calipers.
For bleeding and stuff see P-car.com for the rest of this task.

When the dealer(she) told me what this would cost I thought
my heart was gonna brake!! So I stopped and said WOAH!!
with a couple of lucky brakes I cant dust this one off myself!!
I am a high caliper kinda of guy, very fluid!! I did it myself and was able
to pad my wallet. When I got done I was so mad at the dealer
I rotor a letter and told her how much I saved!! You can too!

 

OG: Why did you need to loosen the 10 mm caliper bolts? You can change pads without touching them. I find the needle nose vice grips to work best on those pesky 'springs'. I use a large screwdriver to press the pads/pistons back far enough to remove the old pads.

 

Tom see why this forum is so great! you found a way to do it without
even removing the caliper! I woulda never thought about it.
great idea! thanks

 

Tom,

He had the spiders on which meant he had to remove the calipers to get out the old pads.

Paul,

1) Craftsman has a 90 degree pair of channel locks that makes the brake spring even easier.

2) You can just use your old pads turned 90 degrees as a lever and push the pistons back. It takes a few times as the other pistions push out. The other way is to use your channel locks with a rubber fuel line over one of the jaws, now compress the channel locks with one of the jaws on the center of the brake pad frame and the other iwth the rubber protector over the center of the brake caliper. One good squeeze and it is done...

Glad you had fun Paul.....

 

Guys, just a FYI...

If you have the spiders and do not like removing the calipers, you can insert a putty knife (nice thin, but rigid blade) between the pad and the spider to disrupt the glue holding the two together. Once the glue is cut, pads can be lifted out, calipers on. IMHO it is good to spare the threads on the aluminum upright / caliper bolts additional torque ups just for pads.

Can't remember where this tip was first posted, may have been Robin's "P-Car" site or Steve W's tech tips... Where ever I got it, I have used it several times and works great.

Enjoy the DIY's !!!

 

Here is a real sneaky trick when removing pads. Hook up two (2) bleeder bottles, one to each side of the caliper. Crack them open...easily compress the old pads pushing the pistons back, replace with new pads...bleed the brakes a bit (You were going to do it anyway) and then you are in business. You can actually do this by yourself, but it is better if a (fill in the blanks) helps you out.

Cup Car and I changed out my rotors and pads...it was super easy, fun and I saved lots of $. DIY forever!

 

Couple of mods:

a) Don't know why the caliper has to come off; don't know what is meant by "spider". If this is all the anti-squeal garbage on the pad backing plates and pistons, I tossed this stuff in the garbage when I first got them off. And I didn't have to remove the caliper to get them off, but I DID curse like crazy.

b) To compress pistons: I took an old pad (one front, one rear) and knocked off all the old lining to leave just the pad backing plate(s). I use this in the caliper against the pistons and use a prybar between this plate and the disc to pry the pistons into the caliper.

c) With new pads in place and tires back on, MAKE SURE YOU PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL TO FORCE THE PADS BACK AGAINST THE DISC!!!! Use several partial pumps rather than pumpng the pedal all the way to the floor. Fail to do this and the first time you use the brakes as you back out of the garage, the pedal will go straight to the floor without even a hint of any braking!

 

First off, yes, I agree: ditch the antisqueal "spiders" or whatever you want to call them! Useless and troublesome, IMO.

The method I use to push the pistons in and get the pads out is a 3" paint knife with a beveled edge. I slide it in between the pad and the pistons, pry gently, and it frees the piston from the back of the pad. I can then squeeze a slotted screwdriver in and finish pushing (gently) the piston back and "voila," pad has enough room to come out and you can drop in the other ones. I do this everytime I prep for the track, and when I prep back for the daily grind. It's fast, easy, and effective.

Edward

 

I agree with Ray. The calipers don't need to come off, unlike other set-ups (BMW comes to mind). The nice thing with the Brembos (for both regular and Big Reds) is that you can pull the pads out from the rear. Just use a pair of pliers to squeeze the retaining clip so that it pops out, and then just pull the pads out.

I don't what the stealer charges but I've swapped pads using just the spare tire jack. It's not ideal but that's how quick it takes.

 

You know what I have talked to several people including
Viper Bob and the Porsche mechanic at the dealer, who
said to keep the spiders. so i gues I will continue to
pull off the calipers.
Bob I was talking about the 12" 90 degree channel lock pliers
Much easier to use than needle nose pliers.

 

I'm curiuos now. What are the advantages/disadvatages of keeping the spiders. Took mine out when changing rear pads yesterday, fronts are still in as I did rotors at the same time and put it all back together like I found it. Rear sensors are tied up and away, fronts are back in the pads. Thanks.

Sorry for the hi-jack.
Jamie

 

There's no consensus on using the spiders (anti-squeal disks). I decided to quit using them, and to use brake lube between the shims and pistons instead. I'm getting a little squealing but not much.

Martin is right on about hooking up a bleed line then cracking the bleeder screws. Then you can practically compress the pistons with your fingers.

 

I took my "spiders" out 2.5 years ago and have not used any since. They make changing the pads more work (I also used the putty knife to remove them - no caliper removal for me!) and I get no brake squeal (or very lttle on occassion) without them using stock pads.

 

No spiders, no squeel (with stock pads). Supposedly, you have to replace the spiders with each pad change...probably Porsche's way of making more $$ off you. Another reason not to bother (though it seems that many who keep the spiders have reused them).

 

Wow!!!

You must have had the high-beer-option DIY for this one Old Guy! I didn't think much of it until you "rotor a letter." I think it is safe to say that you have a warped sense of humor.