Immobilizer Hell
#16
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AFAIK, the remote talks the central locking unit ( 928 618 260 03 about $300) and/or the immobilizer unit ( 993 618 159 02 about $400).
i believe these two units must "communicate" as well.
Here is a picture of a new immobilizer still in the package. You can see at the bottom of the large label two removable stickers with the four digit code circled (2195). So, this is the unit that the remote keys must be programmed to.
At the prices of these control units, an honest dealership that can properly diagnose the faulty part is mandatory!!
Maybe Loren will stop by this thread again for more insight.
and correct anything i may have wrong.
max
i believe these two units must "communicate" as well.
Here is a picture of a new immobilizer still in the package. You can see at the bottom of the large label two removable stickers with the four digit code circled (2195). So, this is the unit that the remote keys must be programmed to.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/imoblzr1.jpg)
At the prices of these control units, an honest dealership that can properly diagnose the faulty part is mandatory!!
Maybe Loren will stop by this thread again for more insight.
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max
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Now I am confused! If the key code resides in the Immobilizer and not the DME, why would I have to replace the DME due to a lost key code/malfunction??? $400 is much better than $1800!
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I would definitely get a second opinion!! I can't see why you would have to change the DME!
If you go to the second post by Lorenfb in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=119479 , it may shed some light
If you go to the second post by Lorenfb in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=119479 , it may shed some light
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So if I do not know any of the codes, do I start by replacing the immobilizer or the DME? Where is the code stored? Also, I was told that there is an emergency immobilizer deactivation process that was published in a Porsche Service Bulletin - has anyone seen this or know of it?
#20
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Don't be mislead, you don't need a new DME unit because of a remote problem.
As long as the remote can transmit, i.e. basically light its' LED, then the remote
can be "learned" by the immobilizer. As I said, your worst case cost should only
be a new immobilizer if you can't obtain the proper code or the immobilizer has
failed. The learning sequence should only take a few minutes.
The driveblock system works as follows:
1. the remote transmits (radiates) a coded frequency
2. the immobilizer receives the signal and determines if it's acceptable,
i.e. it has learned that remote
3. if the remote is O.K. then the immobilizer commands the alarm/lock unit to;
a. disable the alarm
b. unlock the doors
c. allow the starter to operate
4. then the immobilizer sends a code to the DME to allow the engine to run
during the start mode
As long as the remote can transmit, i.e. basically light its' LED, then the remote
can be "learned" by the immobilizer. As I said, your worst case cost should only
be a new immobilizer if you can't obtain the proper code or the immobilizer has
failed. The learning sequence should only take a few minutes.
The driveblock system works as follows:
1. the remote transmits (radiates) a coded frequency
2. the immobilizer receives the signal and determines if it's acceptable,
i.e. it has learned that remote
3. if the remote is O.K. then the immobilizer commands the alarm/lock unit to;
a. disable the alarm
b. unlock the doors
c. allow the starter to operate
4. then the immobilizer sends a code to the DME to allow the engine to run
during the start mode
#22
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It's a 4 digit code. I just added a new remote for my car. I followed the procedure in the owner's manual. It took me several times to get the sequence right due to very short time alloted. Anywyas, the key is having the right immobilizer code.
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It takes about 5 minutes to program each remote, and you have to do all of them in one session, sequentially according to the manual. If you take longer, you will "time out" and have to start over.
If you don't program them all together, only the first one will work. That is why "tried to add the second key with no luck" happened.
Something sounds fishy with the dealer who will not provide you the 4 digit code to do this. With proof of ownership and the VIN, it should be a no-brainer for them to get the code. Seems they would rather sell you stuff you don't necessarily need.
If you don't program them all together, only the first one will work. That is why "tried to add the second key with no luck" happened.
Something sounds fishy with the dealer who will not provide you the 4 digit code to do this. With proof of ownership and the VIN, it should be a no-brainer for them to get the code. Seems they would rather sell you stuff you don't necessarily need.
Last edited by Terry Adams; 05-16-2004 at 03:48 PM.
#25
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depending on the year ,from 96 the Driveblock will send a code to the Motronic to start . Before the Driveblock only cuts the Power to DME ,Starter and Coils . The Remote goes with the Driveblock ( Black box with yellow Sticker ) beside the DME under Drivers seat . The Alarm/central
locking Brain is silver with Blue Top under the Passenger seat and has nothing to do with the Immobilizer ( DriveBlock ) . The learning of a new key takes 1 Hour ,but is mostly waiting Time .very important : All Keys need to be reprogrammed ,also the existing ones .If you go to a Dealer take all remotes and Keys .
harald
locking Brain is silver with Blue Top under the Passenger seat and has nothing to do with the Immobilizer ( DriveBlock ) . The learning of a new key takes 1 Hour ,but is mostly waiting Time .very important : All Keys need to be reprogrammed ,also the existing ones .If you go to a Dealer take all remotes and Keys .
harald
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So it sounds like I am stuck replacing the DME... Is there anything that I need to know before I do this? I have read here a bit about the immobilizer box (the black box under the drivers seat next to the DME) needing to be programmed for the new key code for the DME, is that true? If so - what do I need to do? Also, do I need to do anything to set up the PSM - I was told I would need to...
#27
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"So it sounds like I am stuck replacing the DME... Is there anything that I need to know before I do this? I have read here a bit about the immobilizer box (the black box under the drivers seat next to the DME) needing to be programmed for the new key code for the DME, is that true? If so - what do I need to do? Also, do I need to do anything to set up the PSM - I was told I would need to..."
It really sounds like someone doesn't read well and loves to waste money!
You might try reading my posts a second time more carefully. I've programmed
a number of immobilizers (993 & 996) and the 993 programming takes less than
2 minutes.
It really sounds like someone doesn't read well and loves to waste money!
You might try reading my posts a second time more carefully. I've programmed
a number of immobilizers (993 & 996) and the 993 programming takes less than
2 minutes.
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Hello,
I do not have the key code and/or the immobilizer is malfunctioning. I have looked up the key code by the VIN and by the serial number on the DMA - neither one of them works. The local dealer also has not been successful at making the key code given to us work. I currently do not have a FOB that works on the car (lost the only one) and the alarm is active. How do I fix this in 2 minutes?
I do not have the key code and/or the immobilizer is malfunctioning. I have looked up the key code by the VIN and by the serial number on the DMA - neither one of them works. The local dealer also has not been successful at making the key code given to us work. I currently do not have a FOB that works on the car (lost the only one) and the alarm is active. How do I fix this in 2 minutes?
#29
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You do have a 993 and not a 996?
As I said, you just need to buy the immobilizer. You don't need any info from the
dealer. As shown in another post on this thread, the code comes with the immobilizer.
It should accept the frequency/code from your present remote.
If you have no remotes, then you'll have to buy one - $125.
As I said, you just need to buy the immobilizer. You don't need any info from the
dealer. As shown in another post on this thread, the code comes with the immobilizer.
It should accept the frequency/code from your present remote.
If you have no remotes, then you'll have to buy one - $125.
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Loren,
So how does the immobilizer talk to the DME? I have heard that the key code is stored in both the DME and the immobilizer, and I have also heard that the key code is only stored in the DME. If I replace the immobilizer, assuming no other malfunction is causing my problems, I would not have to do anything to the DME and then be able to use the standard procedure to add my new remotes (which I have already purchased) and I am good to go? That seems to easy (and unlike Porsche).
So how does the immobilizer talk to the DME? I have heard that the key code is stored in both the DME and the immobilizer, and I have also heard that the key code is only stored in the DME. If I replace the immobilizer, assuming no other malfunction is causing my problems, I would not have to do anything to the DME and then be able to use the standard procedure to add my new remotes (which I have already purchased) and I am good to go? That seems to easy (and unlike Porsche).