Jim Morton

wrt to Finesse It, I have found that it breaks down the "grit" size as you work it. From what I have been told by the 3M rep, this is what makes it somewhat unique over the other SMR's.

After FI, I also still use the Zymol HD-Cleanse to check the area I was polishing in. It is very mild and fast to remove. What is imperative is to use a new area of your polishing cloth as you start a new area to apply the FI to. Other wise it is like the particulate in the clay. You can do more damage than good.

Final note. Since using the FI on a few areas left behind by the PO during my first detail job on the 993, I have not used FI since. It works, but it is harsh on your protective layers. Since the first "Z" job, staying between the Clay and the "Z" products, things are staying pretty darn amazing ! The Z6 helps keep the depth of gloss up after the washes. The Z6 anti - dust thing seems to have merit as well.

Hope this helps.

JPS

Quick question on that, Jim.

Do you use the clay bar with all the Z on, or do you periodically strip all off and start over with the Z? In other words, can you use the clay as just a normal part (when needed) of the maintenance, or does it require you go back and start over?

vjd3

Jim, a question from me as well:

Your 993 is guards red, as is mine ... I have an orbital and bought some 3M SMR last fall. Immediately upon using it, the foam buffer went red, as there is no clear coat on the 95 guards red. Did you encounter that, and how hard did you work your paint with the FI? Lastly, did you use the Zaino for the non-clear coat cars on yours?

Vic
95 C4

Jim Morton

JPS:

From what I understand, if you use the clay, you would be starting over with the protective layers. However, I personally think that using clay is a good idea every 6 months to a year depending on how much exposure the car gets. I like to check on the actually paint surface as well as getting off the aging protective coats.

From my experience, as long as there is no extreme exposure (sun / weather), the surface stays quite nice once it gets established. It is when the paint gets neglected that you really have the complete "bump and grind" to do over again.

VJD3:

There is no clear coat on my 1995 as well. Because Porsche paint is typically softer than other marques, I hand work the paint. I will see some red on the towel if I really work the FI in a trouble spot. I try not to use it over a complete panel. Mostly the nose and rear bumper cover behind the tire spray. I try and let the area I FI'd "rest" a little before I go over it again with another product.

As far as machine buffing, I get really nervous pulling a lot of paint off an older paint job with machine buffing. Since I am not out for profit, I do not mind taking more time and keeping the control with hand work. Back when I had less patience, I did machine buff. From those jobs, I could easily believe that if this was the first time you buffed that your pad would turn red. Remember to wash your pad out immediately after finishing to get the paint / polish out of the pad...

As far as Zaino goes.. I used the Z5 on the first coat then switched to Z3 for the next three coats of "polish". Per LAZaino's instructions, I used a wipe down of Z6 between the coats of Z3. Man, is the car clean with a lot of color depth.

Hope this helps guys !

Regards

Paul M

Typically, before adding more coats of Zaino or using the clay bar, I find a nice secluded piece of road and do a couple of 145+mph runs.

Then I find some twisties and apply as much lateral g-force as I can.

Loosens the dirt and really improves the shine, IMHO.

Jim Morton

Ah Paul.

You know the real secret of detailing. As you can tell from my avatar, my beast get out and about too.

Cheers !

red targa

Hi Jim & Vic,

Since the '95 Guards Red is not clear coated, should I assume my '96 Guards Red is also not clear coated?

I seemed to recall that Z1 and Z2 are not recommended for non-cleared coated paint? Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks!

vjd3

I believe it's not clear-coated, but if you take a little polish (not wax) or a light rubbing compound and a clean white cloth and polish with moderate pressure, if there's no clear you'll see red on the cloth. When you're polishing a clear coat, you're removing the clear coat a little at a time.

Actually, not having the clear (which is required for a metallic finish but not on a solid) can be something of an advantage, because touchup and removing scratches, etc. is much easier. On a clear-coated car, once you're through the clear-coat, which is fairly thin, you're toast. One a single-stage paint, it's guards red right down to the primer.

Jim, thanks for the tips.

Vic
95 C4

Jim Morton

John:

For the MY '96, I beleive that it could go both ways.

I know that Viken posted something about 95 vs. later Gurads Red. You might try an archive search to be sure. I know there are many paint codes for Guards Red over the years.

Also, you can find you color code up in the front boot, side wall left fender. A dealer or body shop supply could use the code and tell you whether it is a clear coat system, or solid.

Regards

Mike in Chi

Paul M



But what about the bugs that sacrifice their lives so you can loosen the other dirt?

BradB

JPS,
Yes you can periodically clay if needed. It does not remove all the layers of Zaino. I Clay top surfaces and rockers usually every 6 months and do touchs ups as required.

Red Targa,
Zaino Z3 is specially formulated for cars without clearcoat finishes.

Paul M

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Mike in Chi:
<strong>Paul M



But what about the bugs that sacrifice their lives so you can loosen the other dirt?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Mike,

I can assure you, the bugs definitely try and get their own back when I'm out on the motorcycle.