Removing and Replacing Front Seats
06-07-2005, 05:00 PM
#16
Drifting
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Doug, I just pulled one out and went to Lowes and matched them up w/o problem. Hardened steel, the black kind. A smaller diameter head buth the same length, hex and threads. Sorry I don't have the exact specs. I had one round out the head at removal and I took a dye grinder and cut a groove in the head for a standard screw driver. At that point I was able to remove it.
06-07-2005, 05:25 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
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an EZ out would make short work of a striped allen as well. BTW, i think 6 bolts is the standard on the the older porsches, as mine is the same, but the 996's have 4 bolts.
~Eyal
~Eyal
06-08-2005, 03:47 AM
#19
Technical Guru
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Porsche sources the seat bolts from a company called Imavi. They are not regular class 8.8 bolts that you can get at the hardware store so be careful with what you buy. If you are buying generic, look for bolts that are (possibly DIN 6912), cold formed, micro-encapsulated (torque specification for the bolts is given as wet which is completely different from dry torque spec) and zinc plated. For anything attached to a seat (frame, belts, etc.) you are probably better off buying directly from Porsche. None of the big box hardware stores can certify their bolts so you (and they) have absolutely no clue what your buying. There is a serious problem with asian companies marking low quality bolts to whatever class their customer wants at order time and these are probably the most important bolts in the whole car.
Last edited by JasonAndreas; 08-01-2010 at 04:09 PM.
06-08-2005, 11:57 AM
#20
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I am on my third set of seats and moved the current ones back to the second set of holes to give me more room. Very easy removal. And I only tweaked my back once and waddled like a duck for a week. God, I hate old age. But then that what the 993 is for...to keep me young at heart!!
Last edited by Chuck W.; 05-09-2011 at 03:56 AM.
05-08-2011, 10:30 PM
#21
Instructor
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anyone have any advice for removing the seat when it's all the way at the bottom? The switch that controls height is kaputt and the seat it all the way on the bottom..i tried to remove the switch without removing the seat, but there isn't enough slack in the cable to pull it out far enough..any suggestions?
05-08-2011, 10:39 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
WD-40 is not a good product at all for loosening stuck hardware. A true penetrating oil is something like PB Blaster or Kroil. WD is not good for much except displacing water, perhaps.
05-08-2011, 10:51 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
anyone have any advice for removing the seat when it's all the way at the bottom? The switch that controls height is kaputt and the seat it all the way on the bottom..i tried to remove the switch without removing the seat, but there isn't enough slack in the cable to pull it out far enough..any suggestions?
If you can raise the front of the seat you should be able to access the motors. Unplug the 2 wires from a working motor and plug them into the rear up/down motor then use the working switch to raise the seat. The one on the far right (sitting in the seat, closest to passenger side) controls the rear raise and lower. If the motor is shot then if you unclip the drive cables and remove them from the far right motor they should be long enough to go into one of the other motors to be able to get the back of the seat up.
Good Luck with it.
05-09-2011, 10:58 PM
#26
Drifting
There is a guy on eBay selling sets for $10 IIRC. Make suer you are getting the right ones. Black, Grade 8s. Another option is to go to your local Lowes and look in the specialty drawers until you find them. Can't remember the specs but I am sure someone will pipe in with the numbers. AS others have said, they can be a real pain to break free the first time though.
05-10-2011, 10:38 AM
#28
Three Wheelin'
My seats have 6 allen set screws per seat - not 4 bolts.
3 of the allen hexagons had been damaged by some one using the wrong size allen key and would not screw out.
Chiseling them out was a real pain.
3 of the allen hexagons had been damaged by some one using the wrong size allen key and would not screw out.
Chiseling them out was a real pain.
05-11-2011, 11:45 PM
#29
Instructor
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Just went out and looked at mine.
If you can raise the front of the seat you should be able to access the motors. Unplug the 2 wires from a working motor and plug them into the rear up/down motor then use the working switch to raise the seat. The one on the far right (sitting in the seat, closest to passenger side) controls the rear raise and lower. If the motor is shot then if you unclip the drive cables and remove them from the far right motor they should be long enough to go into one of the other motors to be able to get the back of the seat up.
Good Luck with it.
If you can raise the front of the seat you should be able to access the motors. Unplug the 2 wires from a working motor and plug them into the rear up/down motor then use the working switch to raise the seat. The one on the far right (sitting in the seat, closest to passenger side) controls the rear raise and lower. If the motor is shot then if you unclip the drive cables and remove them from the far right motor they should be long enough to go into one of the other motors to be able to get the back of the seat up.
Good Luck with it.
