Randall G.

I would definitely go with a recharge before installing a new $evaporator$. Your car is 8 years old, and may simply have a slow-leak. Even if you can only get 1 summer out of a (cheap R-134a) charge, you're still way ahead of paying for a new evaporator. And, that's assuming the evaporator is what's leaking...could be lots of other places. Though, of course, the evaporator is the worse-case scenario. If a fresh charge leaks out super-quick, then you'll need to nail down the source.

Good luck!

ingo777

If it was a "sudden death" of the A/C then its probably not a leak, but worth a refill.

Toga

Hi everybody!

I hope the attached picture will show on!

I had a leak last year on my a/c, and we found it on the rear left of the car. There are 2 aluminum lines running along the left floorpan outerside from the compressor at the rear to the condensor at the front. Right before entering the rear wheel arch, those lines are connected to others by bolt and Oring. That's where the leak was. The problem is to unscrew the connection where the leak is, without damaging the aluminum!!! I you damage it then you going for a complete replacement of the line! (NOT EASY! and probably expensive too!)
By the way, there is a fan associated with the condensor. Check the relay to see if that fan runs when needed. If it doesn't, the T° in the system increases and so the pressure. That can help an oring to die prematurely!


I hope this helps! from Belgium!

Toga

Oups Sorry for the picture dimensions!!!!!!!!

I'll try to do it better next time!

Cheers
JP

Carrera Mike

Erik, I had a battle with my a/c for a while to keep it cold. I found out where it leaked 'cause the shop put dye in it. It leaked right at the 'B' Nut on the evaporator. It's that big line under the front left fender well as it connects to the evaporator(Radiator looking thing). What I did is replaced the 'O'-ring and so far it's been holding for 3 weeks now. I had to play/jiggle the line to make it leak(thats how I found it). You could also make a water and shampoo solution in a spray bottle and if the sys is pressurize, spray the connections I mentioned and see if it bubbles/leak.

Servicing it is easy too, don't fall for the $40~$100 dollar service. Just put 1 twelve oz (or maximum of 1.5 can) of R-134a. I noticed mine leaks when it's over presurize(somehow that O ring can't handle too much pressure).
The servicing kit you can buy at auto zone for $10 are good enough. I bought a seperate gauge and servicing hose myself since I have to maintain three cars anyways. Total cost =$16(includes the $4.50 can of R-134a)


Of course this is the case on my a/c sys. Your's could be different, BUT I would check that first. It is worth leak checking it first before replacing $$$ parts. Charge the system(while runnning the a/c with 1 can of R-134($4.50), shut the engine and start listening for hissing sound, or spray soapy water on connections specially the ones on the evaporator under the left fender.

Good luck

Arrwin

Wow....is there any warning when the evaporator is about to go? Is this a fairly common problem with the 993s?

I'm assuming that there is nothing that preventative maintenance can do to avoid?

Mark in Baltimore

Knock on wood, I've never had a problem with my AC.

Speedraser

Neither had I 'till very recently. Now I'm scared.

993tt

hmmm...

So where do I put this R-134a fluid then? Is there any special procedure I have to do when filling it up?

/Erik

Carrera Mike

With the servicing hose, connect to the low pressure side of the A/C. There are 2 of these ports which both sits right on top of the a/c compressor. The low pressure is the fatter line. (I'll post some pictures)

-Run your a/c for about 1 minute and while it still running, take a reading of your pressure. If it's 'low or 'empty', go ahead and service it on the same port(low pressure), while a/c is running. One 12 ounce can of r-134 should be able to make the air blow cold. The capacity of the system is 20 ounces. On mine, 1.5 can is enough.

-at this point, you can turn off the a/c and engine and start looking for leaks.

Carrera Mike

Erik,

First pix is the tool I bought from a local auto part store for $ 6 that reads your a/c servicing pressure. Oly read the servicing pressure WHEN THE A/C IS IN OPERATION AND ONLY ON THE LOW PRESSURE SIDE.

Carrera Mike

This 2nd pix shows you where to read and service your pressure. This is right on top of the a/c compressor in the engine bay. LOW PRESSURE PORT IS THE ONE WITH THE BIGGER DIAMETER LINE(where I'm pointing on the pix). **DO NOT service or read servicing pressure from the high pressure port**

Carrera Mike

3rd pix shows how I read the servicing pressure. You have to do this while the a/c is running for at least 1 minute(engine running of course). READ ONLY ON THE LOW PRESSURE PORT.

Carrera Mike

This 4th pix shows how and where to connect the serving hose with the can of R-134a. I highly recommend that you only first service it with 1 can(12 ounce) and test the system. The maximum capacity of the system is 20 ounces. I found out on mine, 'the hard way', that it blew an O-ring when I over service it. Once you check your system for leaks and fix it, I would only add "half" of the second can.

Listen for hissing sound specially in the left fender. Remove your wheel/tire and the front fender liner where you can see all the a/c lines running towards the evaporator. As I said earlier, you can also mix shampoo and water solution and spray connections, if bubbles shows, there's your leak. Proffesional shops will also have green dye that they can add in the servicing which will give you the indication where the leak is.

Hopefully, that your's is only low in servicing. Or if there's leak, easily fixable with either re-tighening the line or replacing an o-ring.

Good luck/just keep posting those questions.

STLPCA

When refrigerant leaks from the AC system, it also loses the oil necessary for system longevity. The proper way to recharge the AC is a vacuum purge & refill w/the correct mix of refrigerant & oil. The AC in a 993 will not work properly if the refrigerant pressure is too low or too high. The introduction of moisture into the system can cause corrosion resulting in expensive (& avoidable) failures.

A dye test by a qualified AC shop would be an appropriate diagnostic step. It should show if the evaporator has developed a leak from (usually) internal corrosion or if there is another less catastrophic leak source from any of a myriad of places. BTW, I haven't heard of evaporator failure as a common 993 problem.