Kevin Reilly

I had my car at the dealer today to get an extra remote programmed and I also decided to get my broken 3rd brake light repaired. Here's what the dealer wrote up:

"Tested 3rd brake lamp system for inop. Switch and lamps OK, no power at electrical connector. Removed hat shelf, checked power at lower contact, all OK. Problem is in power grid inside glass (excessive resistance). Two fixes: replace rear glass with updated version or repair w/ wire harness (to bypass glass grid altogether). This repair will be approx $250."

When I got that news I faxed the dealer tech the DIY from Robins site that was written by Gert <a href="http://p-car.com/diy/glass/" target="_blank">3rd brake light DIY</a> . The tech called me back and said that in their experience doing this repair ran the risk of "blowing out the rear window" because the brake light would be run thru the same line as the rear defrost...in the case that the defrost was on and I stepped on the brake...look out! He said their suggested fix solved the problem of the brake light sharing the same line as the defroster.

I checked the archives and found no mention of the Gert fix causing an overload as described. Any thoughts?

Gert

I guess your technician didn't read the DIY thoroughly.
The DIY says to connect the outside wires of the third brake light directly with the inside wires instead of through an embedded connection.
No where in the DIY is mentioned that the wiring is hooked onto the defroster wiring.
I have done this modification to my car and a friend's 993 and I received feedback from people that red Robin's DIY page and repaired their third brake light as written in the DIY.

So far, no blown out the rear windows.

Kevin Reilly

PS, one nice thing about visiting the dealer today (Stead in Walnut Creek) was that a Speed Yellow GT3 had just arrived. Wow, that was some beast. Anyone in the area might want to check it out.

Jeff 993TT

Hmm... I got the same repair done at an independent for about $100, I think. $250 sounds high, I'd just DIY if you have a extra sunday.

Jeff

Kevin Reilly

Jeff:

I think a good part of that $250 was probably for the "wire harness patch kit". My mechanic (non dealer) last month told me he'd do the Gert DIY for me for less than 1 hrs labor. I didn't do it then because it would have meant leaving the car an extra day and I needed the car, and I knew I had to take the car to the dealer for the remote programming.

Did your mechanic do what my dealer recommends or the DIY repair? Just asking because it wasn't clear to me from your post.

EricGT3

I had the same problem with my 96 993TT, which I recently bought from an indep. dealer, upon PPI, the Porsche dealer told us the 3rd brake light was not working and there was a short in the windshield... They ended up replacing the rear window at the dealer's expense and spent $750.00. Seems to me re-wiring the brake light to avoid the rear window is a better and longer lasting solution.

FYI there are instructions on DIY programming remotes on pelicanparts.com and p-car.com. Rector Porsche in Burlingame wanted $130.00 to program a remote for me, I got DIY instructions and did it in 5 minutes.

Eric

Flying Finn

Eric,

How could you do it so fast?

I need to get an extra remote but I thought programming the remotes takes about 45 min a piece (that's what the manual says)

Guys,

Couple of things (in instructions) I don't understand...

Buzzer contact: what's the messing around with that? When I read the instructions, I though I only need to turn the key in either position I or II (& off, naturally), what am I missing?

Another thing, what happens if I have the alarm on and my battery dies? Can I just open the doors (with key) and charge the battery and everthing will be fine or is it so that when I charge the battery, alarm will set off? And if it sets off, can I just shut it down with the remote?

One more... It says "set wiper switch to stage 1" that is windshield wiper, right? (man I feel smart today)

EricGT3

FF,

I just followed the instructions from p-car site <a href="http://p-car.com/diy/remote/" target="_blank">http://p-car.com/diy/remote/</a>

If you go down to where it says "Tuning Model '95 Remote Control Units", then continue down to "Entry of the Code Number" and follow the instructions, you should have it. I've copied the instructions below for you. You must have your immobilizer code number on hand though.

"Entry of the code number"

1. Switch the ignition on. The warning light in the clock will go on and off again after 15 seconds.

2. Follow the instructions in points 3 to 6.

3. Switch the ignition off and on again within 5 seconds. The warning light will light up and start to flash after 15 seconds.

4. You must start the enter the code number within 5 seconds.

5. Example: code number 1312

1 - ignition off-on
wait for warning light
3 = ignition off-on, off-on, off-on
wait for warning light
1 = ignition off-on
wait for warning light
2 = ignition off-on, off-on

6. If the number is correct, the warning light will flash. This is also the point at which tuning of the remote units can start.

7. If you have reached the tuning status (point 6 warning light is flashing) the remote control units must be tuned within one minute.

8. Press the pushbuttons of the remote control units until the LEDs of the alarm system in the doors flash (as an acknowledgment). Operate all the remote control units one after the other.

9. If no more remote control units are operated within 1 minute or the ignition is switched off, tuning is stopped.

I did it and everything worked fine. However, one warning, if you are not able to complete the programming, and you've erased the old code, you cannot start the car until you reprogram a new code. It's not difficult, you can do it.

Eric

<img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />

Flying Finn

Thanks Eric,

But if I've understud it correctly, that instruction is for cases that your remote battery is dead, I meant if car's battery goes dead (when alarm is on), what do you need to do then?

EricGT3

FF,

I see a couple of possibilities when the battery dies:

1. The immobilizer still remembers your remote codes and everything is OK and normal when you engage the remote.

2. The remote codes in the immobilizer have been erased and must be re-programmed for the remotes to work. In this case you would have to use the emergency key disarming procedure talked about in the manual and then reprogram the remotes.

It seems scenario 1 is more likely since dead batteries are inevitable. Also, the manual does not talk about having to reprogram the immobilizer while it does talk about the engine management program being wiped out when the battery dies.

Eric

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Flying Finn

Thanks Eric,

that happened once w/ my Harley & your scenario 1 was the case, I'd like to be sure about this since I have to leave my car for five weeks ( ) and I'd still like to leave the alarm on.

Maybe I just lock the doors (with the key) and leave the alarm off...

I do have a brand new Optima battery but I'm not sure how long it will last with alarm on?

Does anyone know how much alarm takes when it's on?

Vinny '98 3.8 C2S

FF asked &gt;&gt;... if car's battery goes dead (when alarm is on), what do you need to do then?&lt;&lt;

Eric's first scenario is correct:
&gt;&gt; The immobilizer still remembers your remote codes and everything is OK and normal when you engage the remote.&gt;&gt;

With a dead car battery, the only thing you will need to "reprogram" is the radio code.

Kevin Reilly

FF: You might consider picking up a battery maintainer to keep your battery in shape during the 5 weeks the car is sitting. I'm sure you've seen this, but just in case you haven't here is one from Gert's site:

<a href="http://64.35.111.106/cpx_p001.htm" target="_blank">Battery Maintainer</a>

Flying Finn

Thanks Vinny!

That is good news (& you'll come and to programm my alarm if it's not the case, right? Just kidding!

Kevin,

I though about that, but there's no power close that I can use...

Does anyone know will it actually go dead? I mean, brand new battery, 5 weeks & only alarm is on (assuming it doesn't alarm during that time)?

EricGT3

FF,

If you don't need the alarm armed, then just disconnect the battery and lock via the key.

Eric