993 6 Speed, Dead, No Engagement. Maybe Clutch Stuck Open / Engaged?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
993 6 Speed, Dead, No Engagement. Maybe Clutch Stuck Open / Engaged?
Took a turn from a stop sign, merged into traffic. Moments later determined I had a flat or at least a very low tire. Was close’ish to gas station (no spare on deck), so worked to limp there. Then noticed the transmission was NOT engaging. Coasted to side of road. Tire was not engaged (no bead). I made the leap the wheel was just spinning in the tire (right rear). I was wrong; despite my wishful thinking. My wife brought me a spare. I mounted spare. Fired up and NO GO.
Clutch is a year old. I have not had ANY clutch issues.
ANY IDEAS while I wait on AAA?
Seems weird to have a flat (right rear) AND then almost immediately, the clutch fails?
Is there some connection or just a crazy coincidence (that I had a flat (blowout) AND the clutch / transmission failed within minutes)?
Note:
Clutch is a year old. I have not had ANY clutch issues.
ANY IDEAS while I wait on AAA?
Seems weird to have a flat (right rear) AND then almost immediately, the clutch fails?
Is there some connection or just a crazy coincidence (that I had a flat (blowout) AND the clutch / transmission failed within minutes)?
Note:
- The clutch pedal feels normal (it is in its normal resting spot; when depressed, it feels like normal resistance and returns to normal position when foot pressure is removed)
- I saw in another post there is a chance the clutch is stuck open (engaged)?
Last edited by EduardoForesti; 10-29-2021 at 03:40 PM.
#2
Can you put it into gear or is it not letting you engage a gear with the clutch in? That'll tell you where to start.
-Scott
-Scott
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EduardoForesti (11-01-2021)
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Great question. I just started it up and tried it. Without the clutch pedal in, I could get it into 1st and 2nd. I could get to 3rd, but I could hear a faint sound, so pulled it right out. There was resistance to engage 4th, plus, so I didn’t push it. I could not get it into reverse.
#6
Instructor
It could be the shifter bushings and ball cup shifter joint. These bushings like others Porsche uses are made of plastic and the disintegrate with time even if you do not use them. . The classic ones are the seat bushings and the speedometer gears. They just fall apart with time. When it happened to mine the shifter was floating no resistance at all . Could not get it into any gears. After I restored the shifter it was excellent.
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
RE: Shifter Bushing suggestion — it “feels” like the shifter is actually shifting, but it seems like the clutch itself is stuck “engaged” (even though the peddle is in the right place). Did yours feel like it was floating - like no resistance? Mine feels pretty normal / solid.
I grabbed a schematic of the shifter — are there bushings in there that make sense given my symptoms (with engine on, without foot on clutch, I can get it into 1st/2nd, kinda in 3rd, but not R or 4-6 — but of course, the car doesn’t budge in any state)?
Ugh :-(
I grabbed a schematic of the shifter — are there bushings in there that make sense given my symptoms (with engine on, without foot on clutch, I can get it into 1st/2nd, kinda in 3rd, but not R or 4-6 — but of course, the car doesn’t budge in any state)?
Ugh :-(
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#8
Instructor
The bushings in number 16 and 15 arms are the ones that ware out. These two joints, #15 and #16 , are ball and socket joints. When the plastic bushing cracks or wares out the ball and socket are loose and very little or no linear force is transferred to move the linkage. In my case the plastic bushing disintegrated and the shifter, # 1 in the drawing, was just floating free. Could not engage any gear. It might not be this the cause but this is a very common failure point due to the plastic bushing failure.
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EduardoForesti (11-01-2021)
#9
Rennlist Member
Definitely sounds like a broken CV joint. If you had a working LSD it would likely feel like a badly slipping clutch, if you don’t it wouldn’t move at all.
Why did it happen at the same time? Probably because you have a LSD. The LSD is trying to turn the wheels at the same speed even though they’re now drastically different diameters.
I wouldn’t get to stressed about it. On the P car financial scale it’s a mild one.
Why did it happen at the same time? Probably because you have a LSD. The LSD is trying to turn the wheels at the same speed even though they’re now drastically different diameters.
I wouldn’t get to stressed about it. On the P car financial scale it’s a mild one.
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EduardoForesti (11-01-2021)
#10
no clutch
Another thing to check that hasn't been mentioned here is the slave cylinder. Is it actuating when you push the clutch. If yes, that's one avenue to eliminate. If not, then further investigation is warranted. Could be a long shot, but worth checking before tearing everything apart.
JC 96 TT
JC 96 TT
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EduardoForesti (11-01-2021)
#11
It probably is the LSD like Marin said. Given your description of the blowout and how far you went, it probably put the LSD under a tremendous amount of stress to keep you moving forward with the one drive wheel essentially useless. If you can start the car with the clutch pushed in and in gear, it's likely not the clutch/flywheel.
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
A Picture Says 1,000 Words; axle completely disconnected from differential
So, I just got under the 993. The axle is COMPLETELY loose of the differential?!! Have you ever seen that happen?? Did it un-thread over time (clutch job last 6 months — maybe didn’t do a final torque), or what else could it be? Crap, do I just pull the bolts, clean the threads (degrease), reinstall (at the right torque, when I look it up) and go?
My mind is blown.
My mind is blown.
#14
Rennlist Member
That is insane. Someone definitely forgot to torque them down and more than likely they were just hand tightened in there. Was the other side the same way?
Given the car was being driven around while some of these bolts were hanging on by a thread (and others likely already completely free), I would replace all the bolts.
Given the car was being driven around while some of these bolts were hanging on by a thread (and others likely already completely free), I would replace all the bolts.
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EduardoForesti (11-01-2021)
#15
Race Car
I agree with boomboomthump. That doesn't just happen unless someone forgot to torque properly.
I would replace all the bolts on both sides...chances are they didn't torque on either side and may have over stressed thiose bolts. I would also chase the threads on the axle flange to ensure none of the threads are buggered up....last thing you want is a strip axle flange hole. Make sure all is clean, no oil on the threads when you re-assemble and torque to 60 ft-lbs. I usually put a small dab on paint from a paint pen on the head of each bolt once I torque to spec.
I would replace all the bolts on both sides...chances are they didn't torque on either side and may have over stressed thiose bolts. I would also chase the threads on the axle flange to ensure none of the threads are buggered up....last thing you want is a strip axle flange hole. Make sure all is clean, no oil on the threads when you re-assemble and torque to 60 ft-lbs. I usually put a small dab on paint from a paint pen on the head of each bolt once I torque to spec.
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EduardoForesti (11-01-2021)