Question for those that have upgraded their stereo
08-01-2021, 07:58 PM
#16
Hi. I have the hifi Porsche system, and wondering, regarding speakers, is there a front and rear model that just ‘drops’ in? Thanks
I went with the Continental from Tore as well and added Focal speakers up front and Polk in the deck. Streaming Bluetooth works great for me and always connects flawlessly. I ran a wire for a separate microphone up the puller and tucked it up along the windshield. I use my iPhone for nav which broadcasts via Bluetooth so it all works seamlessly.
08-01-2021, 08:10 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
I had the OEM Alpine CD/radio upgrade, I believe 7207, with the HIFI system with the Nokia amp under the passenger seat.
Replaced the 7207 with an Alpine 172BT, to stay with the same brand as the OEM.......about $200.......great operation, bluetooth, mulitple color schemes, looks Alpine good, etc.....
Additionally, replaced all worn out speakers - front and back - with recoded or new speakers. Tweeters were okay......Satisfied with the improved sound.....
Replaced the 7207 with an Alpine 172BT, to stay with the same brand as the OEM.......about $200.......great operation, bluetooth, mulitple color schemes, looks Alpine good, etc.....
Additionally, replaced all worn out speakers - front and back - with recoded or new speakers. Tweeters were okay......Satisfied with the improved sound.....
08-01-2021, 08:22 PM
#18
Race Car
Originally Posted by MC 968CS
Hi. I have the hifi Porsche system, and wondering, regarding speakers, is there a front and rear model that just ‘drops’ in? Thanks
However, here's the thread on rear speakers:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-speakers.html
08-02-2021, 10:06 AM
#19
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The Hi-Fi option power amp uses bi-amplification where a separate amp is used to power the low-frequency driver (Woofer) and a second amp to power the mid and high-frequency drivers. It is a great way of doing a system and is referred to as an active crossover. The problem is that the amplifier under the seat is so grossly underpowered so any benefit it produces on paper does not translate into better sound.
I ended up replacing the amp under the seat using conventional (passive) crossovers attached to the speakers. I also ended up getting rid of the bass reflex boxes under the carpeted speaker enclosures and replaced that with modern conventional speakers. A new amp + aftermarket speakers goes a long way in upgrading the sound.
I subsequently added a low-frequency recovery digital signal processor that easily plugs inline between the radio head and the power amp as a final revision ($60) that profoundly improved the sound. It basically eliminates the need for a subwoofer in the car for most folks who are not going for low-rider-worthy thumping bass.
If you plan to replace the radio with a modern high-power head that also has a tunable bass digital signal processor built-in, as many do, it can make for a simpler install by not requiring a power amp under the seat. This solution works well at moderate volume levels as high-power heads are typically less than 25 Watts RMS (not Peak Power) per channel where an under-seat amp typically is 75 Watts RMS per channel or more. More power translates into less distortion and so improved intelligibility and listening clarity and comfort, not necessarily higher volume. In my car, a basically stock C2 I find turning up the sound so it is clearly heard over typical engine sounds required a bit more power and so I went with an under seat amp.
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; 08-02-2021 at 10:14 AM.
08-05-2021, 06:51 AM
#21
Hi MC,
The Hi-Fi option power amp uses bi-amplification where a separate amp is used to power the low-frequency driver (Woofer) and a second amp to power the mid and high-frequency drivers. It is a great way of doing a system and is referred to as an active crossover. The problem is that the amplifier under the seat is so grossly underpowered so any benefit it produces on paper does not translate into better sound.
I ended up replacing the amp under the seat using conventional (passive) crossovers attached to the speakers. I also ended up getting rid of the bass reflex boxes under the carpeted speaker enclosures and replaced that with modern conventional speakers. A new amp + aftermarket speakers goes a long way in upgrading the sound.
I subsequently added a low-frequency recovery digital signal processor that easily plugs inline between the radio head and the power amp as a final revision ($60) that profoundly improved the sound. It basically eliminates the need for a subwoofer in the car for most folks who are not going for low-rider-worthy thumping bass.
If you plan to replace the radio with a modern high-power head that also has a tunable bass digital signal processor built-in, as many do, it can make for a simpler install by not requiring a power amp under the seat. This solution works well at moderate volume levels as high-power heads are typically less than 25 Watts RMS (not Peak Power) per channel where an under-seat amp typically is 75 Watts RMS per channel or more. More power translates into less distortion and so improved intelligibility and listening clarity and comfort, not necessarily higher volume. In my car, a basically stock C2 I find turning up the sound so it is clearly heard over typical engine sounds required a bit more power and so I went with an under seat amp.
Andy
The Hi-Fi option power amp uses bi-amplification where a separate amp is used to power the low-frequency driver (Woofer) and a second amp to power the mid and high-frequency drivers. It is a great way of doing a system and is referred to as an active crossover. The problem is that the amplifier under the seat is so grossly underpowered so any benefit it produces on paper does not translate into better sound.
I ended up replacing the amp under the seat using conventional (passive) crossovers attached to the speakers. I also ended up getting rid of the bass reflex boxes under the carpeted speaker enclosures and replaced that with modern conventional speakers. A new amp + aftermarket speakers goes a long way in upgrading the sound.
I subsequently added a low-frequency recovery digital signal processor that easily plugs inline between the radio head and the power amp as a final revision ($60) that profoundly improved the sound. It basically eliminates the need for a subwoofer in the car for most folks who are not going for low-rider-worthy thumping bass.
If you plan to replace the radio with a modern high-power head that also has a tunable bass digital signal processor built-in, as many do, it can make for a simpler install by not requiring a power amp under the seat. This solution works well at moderate volume levels as high-power heads are typically less than 25 Watts RMS (not Peak Power) per channel where an under-seat amp typically is 75 Watts RMS per channel or more. More power translates into less distortion and so improved intelligibility and listening clarity and comfort, not necessarily higher volume. In my car, a basically stock C2 I find turning up the sound so it is clearly heard over typical engine sounds required a bit more power and so I went with an under seat amp.
Andy