DAS Rollbar in 98 Cab. (pictures)
#1
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DAS Rollbar in 98 Cab. (pictures)
There have been a couple of threads lately regarding roll bars for Cabs. I've installed the DAS bar in my car. It was a simple bolt-in requiring 6 holes drilled in the floor and no other irreversible modifications. The top and windscreen function perfectly. Installation took about an hour (by myself). I can now remove the bar in about 20 minutes and re-install in 30. You may notice I placed spacers under the feet of the bar. They tilt it back a bit which allowed me to recover nearly 2" of legroom and recline.
I'm happy to answer any questions so feel free.
I'm happy to answer any questions so feel free.
#6
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I just sent John an e-mail. All the pics are less than the max file size. In fact, they are all under 100k. He has a maximum of 8 pics per post but I was only going to post 8 so I think it's a server hiccup!
I'm sure he'll get back to me and I'll get the others on soon.
MC
I'm sure he'll get back to me and I'll get the others on soon.
MC
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#9
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H20NOO,
Did you have any difficulties with the back mounting points when you installed the spacers? My seat back is right near the DAS bar so I can't currently recline the seat. I could use a couple more inches.
Steve
Did you have any difficulties with the back mounting points when you installed the spacers? My seat back is right near the DAS bar so I can't currently recline the seat. I could use a couple more inches.
Steve
#10
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Steve,
I put about 3/8" of material under the front mounts and it bought me over an inch of additional legroom and allowed the seats to recline approx 5 deg. further. You can add as much spacer as you'd like until the top of the bar begins to interfere with the convertible top. You might be surprised how much you can move it! I'm 6'4" tall and had already relocated my seats rearward so the additional legroom was a blessing. I'm still losing about an inch of legroom with the bar and spacers.
MC
I put about 3/8" of material under the front mounts and it bought me over an inch of additional legroom and allowed the seats to recline approx 5 deg. further. You can add as much spacer as you'd like until the top of the bar begins to interfere with the convertible top. You might be surprised how much you can move it! I'm 6'4" tall and had already relocated my seats rearward so the additional legroom was a blessing. I'm still losing about an inch of legroom with the bar and spacers.
MC
#11
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MC,
What kind of material did you use for spacers -washers? I suppose you had to loosen the rear mounts while you added the spacers to allow for a different angle at the rear.
I'll give this a try.
Thanks.
Steve
What kind of material did you use for spacers -washers? I suppose you had to loosen the rear mounts while you added the spacers to allow for a different angle at the rear.
I'll give this a try.
Thanks.
Steve
#12
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Steve,
I used large flat washers and loosened the rear mounts just enough that I could move the bar back and have it stay put while I added the washers.
Note: You will need fewer washers for the rearward bolt since the mounting plate is tipped slightly backward (lower in rear than in the front). I taped the rear washers together and used a magnet to position them since it's very tight back there. Good luck!
I used large flat washers and loosened the rear mounts just enough that I could move the bar back and have it stay put while I added the washers.
Note: You will need fewer washers for the rearward bolt since the mounting plate is tipped slightly backward (lower in rear than in the front). I taped the rear washers together and used a magnet to position them since it's very tight back there. Good luck!
#13
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One more thing... I had to buy longer bolts to accomodate the changes. Be sure to buy grade 5 hardware to comply with PCA, SCCA requirements - and for safety.
Also, the washers are only a temporary solution and may compromise the integrity of the system since they effectively reduce the mating surface of the upper mount. Now that I have my spacing measured, I'll have an additional plate of the same dimensions cut and drilled for future use. I'll probably have it welded to the top mounting plate as a permanent solution.
MC
Also, the washers are only a temporary solution and may compromise the integrity of the system since they effectively reduce the mating surface of the upper mount. Now that I have my spacing measured, I'll have an additional plate of the same dimensions cut and drilled for future use. I'll probably have it welded to the top mounting plate as a permanent solution.
MC
#14
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MC:
Looks like the 6 holes were drilled in the floor. I see the single bolt for the rear contact point but did you have to drill this hole or is it already there behind the fabric. How did you put the fastener on the bolt? Can you reach this from on top thru the opeining where the top folds down into or do you reach it from the bottom thru the wheel well somehow?
What supplier did you use for the rollbar? Is the color in the picture the way it's delivered?
Looks really good in your car. Curious, do you leave it in for daily driving or just for "track"?
Thanks,
Looks like the 6 holes were drilled in the floor. I see the single bolt for the rear contact point but did you have to drill this hole or is it already there behind the fabric. How did you put the fastener on the bolt? Can you reach this from on top thru the opeining where the top folds down into or do you reach it from the bottom thru the wheel well somehow?
What supplier did you use for the rollbar? Is the color in the picture the way it's delivered?
Looks really good in your car. Curious, do you leave it in for daily driving or just for "track"?
Thanks,
#15
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I would put the bolts in from the bottom so you don't have the nuts under the car.What if you go off track and something catches it and rips your floor pan? IMHO of course.
Greg
Greg