Swaybars: RS vs.M030
#31
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[quote]Originally posted by Mike in Chi:
<strong>Hi DJ
Are you running 18" Technology wheels?
What make tires?
Thanks
Mike</strong><hr></blockquote>
Mike,
Wheels: Yes, 18" Technology wheels. Also on Kinesis wheels, 18"x9.5" & 18"x11".
Tires: Pirelli P Zero Assymetrico, P Zero C, P Zero Rosso, Kumho Ecsta V700.
<strong>Hi DJ
Are you running 18" Technology wheels?
What make tires?
Thanks
Mike</strong><hr></blockquote>
Mike,
Wheels: Yes, 18" Technology wheels. Also on Kinesis wheels, 18"x9.5" & 18"x11".
Tires: Pirelli P Zero Assymetrico, P Zero C, P Zero Rosso, Kumho Ecsta V700.
#32
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[quote]Originally posted by DJ:
<strong>
Tires: Pirelli P Zero Assymetrico, P Zero C, P Zero Rosso, Kumho Ecsta V700.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Four tires, four corners. Which goes where?
<strong>
Tires: Pirelli P Zero Assymetrico, P Zero C, P Zero Rosso, Kumho Ecsta V700.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Four tires, four corners. Which goes where?
#33
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[quote]Originally posted by Greg Fishman:
<strong>I don't think I am equipped to argue KC's point.
Greg</strong><hr></blockquote>
Hey Greg,
Anybody is equipped to argue with my point ...I have a 5 year old doing that to me EVERYDAY ...
George, I was also thinking...maybe your drop link brackets were set too low or the drop links were too long...the movements from the bar mounts should be for the "twisting" actions when the car is making a turn. There is a small test you can try...with the rear jacked up bar disconnected, measure the gap between the fender to the tire(whichever side), then connect the bar, drop the car off the jack and jack only one side(left or right)of the car up til tire not touching the ground. Measure again from fender to tire on the jacked up side, the gap should be SMALLER if you swaybar were loaded up...
<strong>I don't think I am equipped to argue KC's point.
Greg</strong><hr></blockquote>
Hey Greg,
Anybody is equipped to argue with my point ...I have a 5 year old doing that to me EVERYDAY ...
George, I was also thinking...maybe your drop link brackets were set too low or the drop links were too long...the movements from the bar mounts should be for the "twisting" actions when the car is making a turn. There is a small test you can try...with the rear jacked up bar disconnected, measure the gap between the fender to the tire(whichever side), then connect the bar, drop the car off the jack and jack only one side(left or right)of the car up til tire not touching the ground. Measure again from fender to tire on the jacked up side, the gap should be SMALLER if you swaybar were loaded up...
#34
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George,
Forgot to mention, when changing the setting of the swaybar, the looser(softer) you set it to the bigger the gap should be...That's why when adjusting the front bar an extra jack would be helpful...
Forgot to mention, when changing the setting of the swaybar, the looser(softer) you set it to the bigger the gap should be...That's why when adjusting the front bar an extra jack would be helpful...
#35
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Kevin,
My car sway bar behaves as you mentioned with only one wheel off the ground. Raise both left and right wheels, and the distance of travel increases and all of the load is taken off the bar. I can change settings by just slightly tugging or pushing on the bar to get he holes lined up. No need for a jack. Now, I would need a second jack if I were lifting only one wheel at a time
We are going to need a tech session soon to prove out our theories. BTW, I’m still sticking to my theory even though I will adjust them tomorrow using your method to see if it makes any difference.
George
My car sway bar behaves as you mentioned with only one wheel off the ground. Raise both left and right wheels, and the distance of travel increases and all of the load is taken off the bar. I can change settings by just slightly tugging or pushing on the bar to get he holes lined up. No need for a jack. Now, I would need a second jack if I were lifting only one wheel at a time
We are going to need a tech session soon to prove out our theories. BTW, I’m still sticking to my theory even though I will adjust them tomorrow using your method to see if it makes any difference.
George
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George <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> ,
I don't have adjustable bars as you know...I am only based on the C2 that I used to have, so don't take my words to the bank...
I wonder how Ben and Mark's car are when they do adjustments... <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
I don't have adjustable bars as you know...I am only based on the C2 that I used to have, so don't take my words to the bank...
I wonder how Ben and Mark's car are when they do adjustments... <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
#37
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DJ
[quote] Wheels: Yes, 18" Technology wheels. Also on Kinesis wheels, 18"x9.5" & 18"x11".
Tires: Pirelli P Zero Assymetrico, P Zero C, P Zero Rosso, Kumho Ecsta V700. <hr></blockquote>
Thanks for the info DJ.
Mike
[quote] Wheels: Yes, 18" Technology wheels. Also on Kinesis wheels, 18"x9.5" & 18"x11".
Tires: Pirelli P Zero Assymetrico, P Zero C, P Zero Rosso, Kumho Ecsta V700. <hr></blockquote>
Thanks for the info DJ.
Mike
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Kevin,
I just played around with the sway bars. I disconnected the drop links while the car was on the ground. There was no tension on either side. The drop links slid right out. This leads me to believe that my theory is correct. There is no preload as long as both wheels have the same amount of tension (compression), no matter their heights. Help, am I missing something?
George
I just played around with the sway bars. I disconnected the drop links while the car was on the ground. There was no tension on either side. The drop links slid right out. This leads me to believe that my theory is correct. There is no preload as long as both wheels have the same amount of tension (compression), no matter their heights. Help, am I missing something?
George
#39
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George,
I guess you could try to move the drop links' brackets...I know you run full stiff rear and full soft front, have you tried to disconnect the front bar and run without before or disconnect the rear bar and run without??? Maybe it's not a good idea to do this...
I will be off @ 3:00pm, want me to stop by??? Got your check, thanks...
<img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" />
I guess you could try to move the drop links' brackets...I know you run full stiff rear and full soft front, have you tried to disconnect the front bar and run without before or disconnect the rear bar and run without??? Maybe it's not a good idea to do this...
I will be off @ 3:00pm, want me to stop by??? Got your check, thanks...
<img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" />
#40
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Hey Kevin,
I guess I'm confussed. If there is no preload on the sway bar, why do I need to adjust the drop links? BTW, my front is full stiff (not soft) and I only play around with the rears. Right now I have the rears at full stiff. What I've noticed is that the stiffer the rear, the soner it breaks away. Now, the soner it breaks away, the more manageble it is. That is, when I have the rears full soft, when the rear goes, it feels like it snaps and I have a hard time controling it. The stiffer the rear, the smother the breakaway and the more controlable it is. The only negative to this is that it just eats up my rear tires and I feel slower.
I wish someone would share their experiences with adjustable sway bars.
George
I guess I'm confussed. If there is no preload on the sway bar, why do I need to adjust the drop links? BTW, my front is full stiff (not soft) and I only play around with the rears. Right now I have the rears at full stiff. What I've noticed is that the stiffer the rear, the soner it breaks away. Now, the soner it breaks away, the more manageble it is. That is, when I have the rears full soft, when the rear goes, it feels like it snaps and I have a hard time controling it. The stiffer the rear, the smother the breakaway and the more controlable it is. The only negative to this is that it just eats up my rear tires and I feel slower.
I wish someone would share their experiences with adjustable sway bars.
George
#41
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[quote]Originally posted by KC993:
<strong>Thanks guys <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> ...
I agree with Mark D. about the tire pressure however, it's easier to lower pressure than to add pressure, specially when you already have a high tire pressures when tires are hot...
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Actually, I said just the opposite. It is far better to raise pressures than to lower them. Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate and a book, with drawings, photos, etc would go a long way in helping you to understand how that stuff works.
<strong>Thanks guys <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> ...
I agree with Mark D. about the tire pressure however, it's easier to lower pressure than to add pressure, specially when you already have a high tire pressures when tires are hot...
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Actually, I said just the opposite. It is far better to raise pressures than to lower them. Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate and a book, with drawings, photos, etc would go a long way in helping you to understand how that stuff works.
#42
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[quote]Originally posted by Mark D - TT Alumni:
<strong>
Actually, I said just the opposite. It is far better to raise pressures than to lower them. Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate and a book, with drawings, photos, etc would go a long way in helping you to understand how that stuff works.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Never claim to be an expert on the subject, don't have a degree on ME, either...
Do have a couple of books about suspensions and I will dig in to them more for referrences so I don't embarrass myself...
But then again, there aren't many advices from racers yet...
Thanks again all... <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
<strong>
Actually, I said just the opposite. It is far better to raise pressures than to lower them. Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate and a book, with drawings, photos, etc would go a long way in helping you to understand how that stuff works.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Never claim to be an expert on the subject, don't have a degree on ME, either...
Do have a couple of books about suspensions and I will dig in to them more for referrences so I don't embarrass myself...
But then again, there aren't many advices from racers yet...
Thanks again all... <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
#43
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Mark D said:
"Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate..."
Isn't that a bit patronizing?
Dick S.
Also BSME
"Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate..."
Isn't that a bit patronizing?
Dick S.
Also BSME
#44
Haiku Grasshoppa
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[quote]Originally posted by Mark D - TT Alumni:
<strong>
Four tires, four corners. Which goes where?</strong><hr></blockquote>
It depends... rain or dry?
<strong>
Four tires, four corners. Which goes where?</strong><hr></blockquote>
It depends... rain or dry?
#45
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[quote]Originally posted by Dick in TN:
<strong>Mark D said:
"Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate..."
Isn't that a bit patronizing?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Of course it is, but that's the way Mark is, and that's why no one can stand him.
<strong>Mark D said:
"Also, I suggest you get a book on basic suspension. Your understanding of how sway bars work is not accurate..."
Isn't that a bit patronizing?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Of course it is, but that's the way Mark is, and that's why no one can stand him.