KC993

Chris,

You are correct. That's why the front is easier to adjust, at least for me... Just jack the car up and take off tire and use a second floor jack to jack under the hub to move the strut up/down for adjustment...

George A

Kevin,

Aren't you placing load on the sway bar side that is jacked up? It sounds like a complicated process that requires two jacks. Not something you want to do at the track in between runs.

Chris,

I have never attempted to change the setting with the wheels touching the ground (my car is way too low). There should be no load on the sway bar as long as the wheels (side to side, not front to back) are the same hight. When I take all the stress off the wheels, the drop links just slide out so easy after you get the bolt off. It take me less than five minutes to adjust my rear sway bar (that includes jacking up the car).

Those are just my experiences.
George

Richard C2S

I agree with Mark D. Prior to installing the PSS-9, I found I could cut down on the understeer by lowering the front tire pressure slightly to increase grip. I also found that I could rather easily get the tail real loose if the pressure there was a little too high.

Todd Serota's recommendation of starting out with 32 front cold and 34 rear cold sounded crazy to me in light of factory specification of 36 front and 44 rear. That's for street tires. But Serota was right. I have found that 32 front and 36 or 37 rear works for me. This pretty much eliminates the understeer and allows for some "play" in the rear.

Richard (not C4S)

Suwipin

[quote]My statement (which is somewhat simpliifed for this board) is based on a degree in Mechanical Engineering<hr></blockquote>

Hey Mark,

We've got something in common here (I'm an ME too..)

KC993

George,

Maybe that's your problem...you have PRELOADED your bar, and once you made the adjustment and drop the car off the jack the bar is now on the full load and as you turn into a corner the bar is just unloading the weight, therefore oversteer.

Make sense to you???

George A

Kevin,

In one word, "No".

My understanding is that as long as both wheels are the same height, there is no load on the sway bar. Makes no difference whether the car is jacked up, resting on the tires, or something is pushing both tires up with the same force (like going over a speed bump). Again, my understanding is that that’s why the sway bar mount and bushings are allowed to swivel.

Dam, I should have studied to be an ME. Sounds like there’s a couple of you that might be able to solve this dilemma.

George

KC993

George,

I am sure someone would jump in and explains it better for you...

The swaybars should not have any load(weight) to them when you car sitting on the ground on 4 tires...when you turn to the right,the left side of the car(compress down) loads up more weight than the right side of the car, the bar connects the left and right and limits the compression (load)to the compressed side(left).

So if you could adjust you rear bar when the car is JACKED UP that means there is no weight to the suspension and the suspesion is fully uncompressed and no PRELOAD to the bar...After you drop the car OFF the jack, there IS already weight to the swaybar(the bar's loaded ,compressed just like you suspesion) and therefore the bar does not load up when you make a turn, instead it's UNLOADING the weight and making the swaybar useless because the rear is now LOOSE everytime you make a turn...and oversteering the car.

Make sense?? again???

George A

Ok Kevin,

I want to hear what others have to say. I still think I'm right.

George

BTW, The check is in the mail.

Mike in Chi

RAK

[quote] I have found that 32 front and 36 or 37 rear works for me. This pretty much eliminates the understeer and allows for some "play" in the rear.
<hr></blockquote>

What size and make tires are they?

And are they 18" technology wheels?

Thanks

Mike in Chi

Greg Fishman

I don't think I am equipped to argue KC's point.
I will just relay my experience
But when I change sway bar settings I do it with the car jacked up in the air, and have a second jack available in case I need to lift the hub, usually it is very little and if a friend is handy I can get them to lift just a slight bit.
Using a set of Rhino ramps also makes it easy to get to the sway bars.

I don't tighten the sway bar until it is on the ground so as not to "twist" the rubber bushing. (You should do the same thing if you are installing suspension links with rubber bushings).
My $.02

Greg

SundayDriver

[quote]Originally posted by Suwipin:
<strong>

Hey Mark,

We've got something in common here (I'm an ME too..) </strong><hr></blockquote>

I guess that explains SOME of our common sickness.

George A

[quote] I don't tighten the sway bar until it is on the ground so as not to "twist" the rubber bushing. (You should do the same thing if you are installing suspension links with rubber bushings). <hr></blockquote>

Greg, I understand your point. I use polyurethane bushings and when they got dry and I would tighten the sway bar mounts, I noticed that my rear end sat up higher. After driving it over my hump in my garage, it would eventually get back to where it was before. Since I lubed the bushings (thanks Mark), I haven’t had that problem.

Kevin’s point would make sense to me if the sway bar had no movement after being tightened. I may be over tightening the sway bar mounts, thus taking some of the movement away. I will give his theory a try this weekend since I am trying to get the excessive oversteer out of my car.

George <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

DJ

[quote]Originally posted by RAK:
<strong>Todd Serota's recommendation of starting out with 32 front cold and 34 rear cold sounded crazy to me in light of factory specification of 36 front and 44 rear. That's for street tires. But Serota was right. I have found that 32 front and 36 or 37 rear works for me. This pretty much eliminates the understeer and allows for some "play" in the rear.

Richard (not C4S)</strong><hr></blockquote>

Richard,

Those pressures work for me too (on a C4S).

993RS

Mark D,
What you say makes sense, but in that case lots of sites are giving wrong information:
<a href="http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/competition/racepres.htm" target="_blank">tirerack</a>
<a href="http://thundervalleyracing.com/features/tech/wolfsteer.html" target="_blank">thundervalleyracing</a>
<a href="http://www.rsracing.com/tech-tire.htm" target="_blank">rsracing</a>

Mike in Chi

Hi DJ

Are you running 18" Technology wheels?

What make tires?

Thanks

Mike