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Having trouble programming additional key fob. I think I have deeper issues. The one fob works fine. I found that the light in the clock had been removed. When I put a bulb in it, it blinks when the car is running. This car had the immobilizer disabled when a GIAC tune was added. Im not sure how that is done. Does anyone know what or how it is disabled? Not even sure that is the problem. I just want to have 2 working fobs. I cant get thru the programming. I can get to the flashing part to put in the code, then the light stays solid instead of dark until the correct code is in. Any ideas?
What instructions are you using? I tried to follow the ECU Doctors' instructions without success. Ended up using the procedure where you sit in the car for 3 minutes then begin the programming sequence sitting in the driver's seat with the door closed.
Hi Dave,
Ouch, In my opinion, the result and unintended consequences of a previous owner messing with something they should have left good enough alone.
My understanding is the flashing light indicates an alarm or immobilizer fault.
I would try the below instructions and if the procedure can't be accomplished the fault is probably related to the GIAC modification. https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...ming-made.html
I have some anecdotal information that when the switch in the steering column lock fails the lamp will flash although the removal of the bulb may have been part of the GIAC modification.
You may be able to contact GIAC for the proper alternate procedure to program remotes or simply how to remove their so-called upgrade completely.
GIAC (and others) bypass the immobilizer by modifying the ECU so that it no longer needs to get “permission” from the immobilizer to start the car (via the OBD link). The immobilizer itself isn't modified. The mod is effective but there are side effects. One is the continuously flashing immobilizer light you note. The owner’s manual says it indicates “immobilizer failure” and that you need to go to an authorized Porsche dealer to get it fixed. Don’t. The “failure” is likely due to loss of communications between with the ECU resulting from the mod. If so, there's no fix short of undoing the bypass. The car will start and run fine, but with the immo stuck in a fault state, it’s possible it won’t be able to program FOBs. Just a guess. See what the folks at GIAC say.
Having trouble programming additional key fob. I think I have deeper issues. The one fob works fine. I found that the light in the clock had been removed. When I put a bulb in it, it blinks when the car is running. This car had the immobilizer disabled when a GIAC tune was added. Im not sure how that is done. Does anyone know what or how it is disabled? Not even sure that is the problem. I just want to have 2 working fobs. I cant get thru the programming. I can get to the flashing part to put in the code, then the light stays solid instead of dark until the correct code is in. Any ideas?
Your code may be incorrect, i.e. the alarm light must flash after entering the code. Read here under 993 Immobilizer Programming; https://www.systemsc.com/technical.htm
Your car will also have a relay bypass in the box in the engine bay. If you pull that relay you may be able to program a new fob. Give it a shot and see if it works!
Your car will also have a relay bypass in the box in the engine bay. If you pull that relay you may be able to program a new fob. Give it a shot and see if it works!
With the OEM relay back in the starter will be back under immobilizer control. Engine is "startable" because the ECU is bypassed but the starter is only operable for 3 min after a FOB unlock (or 90 sec after IGN OFF).
GIAC (and others) bypass the immobilizer by modifying the ECU so that it no longer needs to get “permission” from the immobilizer to start the car (via the OBD link). The immobilizer itself isn't modified. The mod is effective but there are side effects. One is the continuously flashing immobilizer light you note. The owner’s manual says it indicates “immobilizer failure” and that you need to go to an authorized Porsche dealer to get it fixed. Don’t. The “failure” is likely due to loss of communications between with the ECU resulting from the mod. If so, there's no fix short of undoing the bypass. The car will start and run fine, but with the immo stuck in a fault state, it’s possible it won’t be able to program FOBs. Just a guess. See what the folks at GIAC say.
I have the Giac ecu programming on my car. Definitely wakes the car up. Re: flashing immobilized light, I pulled the bulb out...and no more flashing light.
I have the Giac ecu programming on my car. Definitely wakes the car up. Re: flashing immobilized light, I pulled the bulb out...and no more flashing light.
Do you have the central informer (!) lit all the time too?
Andy
I have the Giac ecu programming on my car. Definitely wakes the car up. Re: flashing immobilized light, I pulled the bulb out...and no more flashing light.
Thanks everyone
Loren, I get to the point of programming where I put the code in. Just before, I have the flashing light. I’m supposed to off/on ign and put in the code. At that point the light will come on after the first code is correct and then go to the next code. On mine, flashing light , off\on with ign,light comes on with first off/on. My first number is 0. Should be 10 off\on then the light on.
Jay, will your product work in my situation?
Ben, sounds like “put a piece of tape on the dash to cover the check engine light”. Out of site out of mind. I did that years ago with an old Toyota. Calif smog didn’t think it was funny
Maybe Steve W can chime in?
Is the “bypass” in the ecu programming or is it due to soldering or unsoldering? Can it be reversed?
Loren, I get to the point of programming where I put the code in. Just before, I have the flashing light. I’m supposed to off/on ign and put in the code.
At that point the light will come on after the first code is correct and then go to the next code. On mine, flashing light ,
off\on with ign,light comes on with first off/on. My first number is 0. Should be 10 off\on then the light on.
You may have contact "bounce" which develops multiple entries on the first digit.
Originally Posted by dave97
Is the “bypass” in the ecu programming or is it due to soldering or unsoldering? Can it be reversed?
It requires very carefully unsoldering of a 68 pin chip (NLA) and re-flashing it, and then properly resoldering
it so no intermittent engine running problems occur in the future. Good luck on having it reversed!
That's the process for the '97/'98 cars. The '96 is more involved, and it's basically a Mickey Mouse effort.
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