nile13

Brian, listen to Boris, not me For the second time in our discussions I keep referring to parking lights when I actually mean turn signals.

BS911

Roger that Mike. Turn signals it is... at the black connector on the control box. I'll update with wire connections when done. Although I almost decided that the only "confirmation" I need is that great Porsche THUNK when the power locks actuate. Man those things are loud! Thanks.

ingo777

Gentlemen thanks for that extremely good thread! I was always jealous of all the folks in Singapore using their remote for locking their cars with all the nice effects that come with it. I will give it a try too! Probably with the help of the local Porsche Center since they are outstanding when it comes to such issues and sometimes, even after shophours, are there when one needs them... since I´m not so technical. I hope to be member of the remote society soon!
Again tks for the good thread and cheers from Spore!

nile13

Brian, BMW locks were just as loud. I think it's a german car thing - my ex just picked up an E430 and said it was pretty loud as well. You can think of it as a mechanical alarm system - scares anyone within 10 ft of teh car. Hmmm... here's an idea - have the locks cycle on and off every 10 minutes during teh night to scare thieves

Mike.S, a member of secret '95 remote society, the most exclusive of Rennlist societies (thanks, Ingo).

Coleman

I'm having some trouble with this install. I have the green control unit with the .02 ending serial, so I have the green/white, blue/white wires... I have a Hornet alarm, which is a bit overkill, but It should work here... the alarm has an unlock lead and a lock lead, which are labeled {green (-) lock , (+) unlock output} and [blue (-) unlock (+) lock output] I had spliced this into the blue/white and green/white 993 leads from the yellow block and the power to a constant power source.. I hooked up the ground and I can hear the relay's inside of the brain working but I get nothing on the lock or unlock- I tried reversing the leads to the 993 leads and tried each one on it's own, given to the fact that the manual states that the leads are both (+) and (-) ... it also states that the leads are not high current, and if I'm using a high current lock, I should use a relay.. are the 993's lock leads green/white, blue/white a high current?? I'm assuming not as none of the other successful installs used a relay in getting the system to work.. I'm thinking of ebay'ing this system and getting a basic keyless entry, but then I'm sure I'm overlooking some basic issue... the pulsed unit lock or unlock (-) or (+) output is .8 sec. is this too short? I think it can be increased through some programming method...
Thanks in advance...

Coleman.

BS911

Coleman. You might want to get added input from others as I'm not 100% here, but I believe you will need the relays to activate the lock/unlocks. My keyless entry system had built-in relays which was the only way I didn't need them. If you are hearing the brain click, but not activate the locks, then I'd guess you have it hooked up right, just need to relay in the hot source and ground triggers.

Coleman

so there would be 2 relays: one a +12v to lock or unlock and one would be a relay to ground to lock or unlock?? I'm a little confused-.. maybe I'll just ground out one of the leads and see if I get any results-.. or add 12v across the leads which would simulate the open relay, and see if that has any action... I dont want to fry anything-.. hmm...


Coleman,

Jeff

I bought a 95' so I wouldn't have to screw around with the immobilzer and/or remote. Stick the key in and lock or unlock it -- nice and simple. Of course, I still like to use a typewriter as well.

ToreB

I've just installed my remote/alarm now, and on my early '95 993 the lock lead is white/green (pin 12 on the connector) and the unlock is blue/white(pin 10).

GND on one of these causes the car to lock/unlock.
I made sure that my aftermarket alarm did have these outputs before I chose what system to buy.

Thank you for an exellent write-up.

Best regards,
Tore Bergvill
Oslo, Norway

JM993

Hi All,

I'm running into some problems. On most alarms I've installed there are 2 connections for lock/unlock. I'm trying to wire an Alpine 8026A which has 6 door lock outputs!!!:

1. door lock (normally closed) - connect to switch side of reverse polarity factory door lock motors
2. door lock (common) - connect to factory relay or door lock motor for door lock control
3. door lock (normally open) - connect to either to battery or ground for door lock activation depending on door lock type.
4. door unlock (normally closed) - connect to switch side of reverse polarity factory door lock motors
5. door unlock (common) - connect to factory relay or door lock motor for door lock control
6. door unlock (normally open) - connect to either to battery or ground for door lock activation depending on door lock type.

Leads 3 and 6 are connected on the alarm with an in-line fuse. I think these should be grounded.

I'm guessing that leads 2 and 5 should be connected to the lock/unlock wires that lead to the factory alarm control unit as outlined in this DIY.

I have no idea what to do with leads 1 and 4 and the instructions are no help.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

TIA,
Joe

FlyYellow

i agree with you that 2 & 5 should be connected to the factory alarm. These are the grounding signal locks as opposed to using +12V to unlock them. You use the others if you are using actuators or some other type of system...

Don't connect any of the others that you listed.

Hook up +12V and a ground to the alarm and that should do it...

Cheers,
Boris

JM993

Thanks Boris - I'll give it a shot

jdoc7

BS911

Check your PM.

jdoc7

I'm a bonehead when it comes to electrical work but this was easy! Everything mentioned above in BS911's post with pictures worked for me too...on the first try! I'm really happy to have remote locks now. This was a great post and write-up.

JM993

Hey Everyone,

I just completed the job. In addition wiring up the door locks I connected the parking light flash feature (use the grey/black and grey/red wires at the light switch). I initally connected the on/off chirp to the factory alarm siren but it was too loud and totally obnoxious,

One question, I'm a little concerned about the fact that my alarm control unit and stereo amp (I have hifi and dsp) and almost touching. I insulated with aluminum foil. On thing that did make me feel alittle better is the fact the Porsche attaches a wiring loom to the amp fins! Guess we'll see what happens.

Cheers,
Joe